Are you sure they are ds vibes?
And proper angle won't help joint wearing out. Mine is nearly perfect and it still eats them.
And proper angle won't help joint wearing out. Mine is nearly perfect and it still eats them.
cutting axle "C's" and caster angle questions.
- Thread starter wheelen disco
- Start date
Eh, that doesn't discount it as a factor. I didn't imply that it'd improve straight-line tracking, but you ought to see an improvement in steering feel if you pull the SR in some.
Also, per your post above, 3 degrees positive isn't anything absurd. Toyota calls for 3 degrees at ride height on the 80 series trucks, some guys are running 6+ on their cut-and-turns.
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Yes , I've replaced the t-case bearing twice and the flange once. I've been getting 3-7k out of all the double cardean joints . not to mention all the travel I've been giving up.
6°- (top ball forward) is absolutely obsurd. The girlfriend drives it occasionally , she would die. I've played with scrub angle quite extensivly but not so much with the rover. I've only been able to dial in "feel" and bump steer. Nothing that most drivers would ever be able to notice
Giving up travel howso?
Sounds a little soon for stock joints, but I could see it if the center ball is worn. The 1310's lasted about 10k the first time and are about 15k now with made in usa joints.. Ds is so bad 2shops refuse to work on it... Wouldn't even try to balance it for me.
Do you have an adjustable panhard rod?
Yes I have an adjustable panhard and the pinion is centered.
I also currently have 3° of positive caster ( top ball joint tipped back) I did correct for caster when I lifted the truck ( made new link mounts).
How am I giving up travel ?
I don't know my pinion/driveshaft angles offhand , but the driveshaft is somewhere in the high 30°'s
To put it in perspective a stock d2 shaft binds at ride height I.e does not turn without hitting itself.
A ground all to shit stock d2 shaft binds at 4-6 inches of droop ( don't remember i did all these measurments years ago) and a ground 1310 shaft binds a bit later.
So basically what I am saying is I'm tired of tight limiting straps. I'm tired of replacing ujoints / centering balls . I'm tired of literally blowing up driveshafts off road. And I am not willing to drive a truck that handles like a bag of dogs assholes. In retrospect I've spent more time fucking about with driveshafts and typing on this forum than it would have taken me to fix the problem.
I also currently have 3° of positive caster ( top ball joint tipped back) I did correct for caster when I lifted the truck ( made new link mounts).
How am I giving up travel ?
I don't know my pinion/driveshaft angles offhand , but the driveshaft is somewhere in the high 30°'s
To put it in perspective a stock d2 shaft binds at ride height I.e does not turn without hitting itself.
A ground all to shit stock d2 shaft binds at 4-6 inches of droop ( don't remember i did all these measurments years ago) and a ground 1310 shaft binds a bit later.
So basically what I am saying is I'm tired of tight limiting straps. I'm tired of replacing ujoints / centering balls . I'm tired of literally blowing up driveshafts off road. And I am not willing to drive a truck that handles like a bag of dogs assholes. In retrospect I've spent more time fucking about with driveshafts and typing on this forum than it would have taken me to fix the problem.
Oh I see.
Try taking out your caster correction. Caster corrected arms make it worse IMO. I ran 14" sb shocks and didn't max them out, or the driveshaft in radius arms.
I had no issues with handling 4" lift and no correction.
Edit, link mounts?
Try taking out your caster correction. Caster corrected arms make it worse IMO. I ran 14" sb shocks and didn't max them out, or the driveshaft in radius arms.
I had no issues with handling 4" lift and no correction.
Edit, link mounts?
From what I'm reading, you should give up on trying to make the disco geometry work. Throw it all out, build a 3 link.
you've got something else going on…not sure what, but something is wrong and trying to cut and turn a rover housing is a receipt for disaster.
Stock D2 driveshafts don't bind at ride height, if yours is or was that's where to start looking at what your problem is. Even after my axle swap (version 1, Toy, not Ruffstuff) I was using a stock DC joint with no binding thru out the entire range of articulation.
Stock D2 driveshafts don't bind at ride height, if yours is or was that's where to start looking at what your problem is. Even after my axle swap (version 1, Toy, not Ruffstuff) I was using a stock DC joint with no binding thru out the entire range of articulation.
Correct if I "roll" the axle back forward I will have a better angle , and rolling the axle back will make it worse this is a fact.
Link mounts ?
I made another mounting tab on the front of my axle where the front of the radius arm mounts to allow for more caster. I can still use the stock holes and do off-road (sometimes) still with 0° caster the pinion angle is not proper or even good. And with 0° caster it handles like shit , not to mention the death wobble if anything is sloppy.
Thanks for the input everyone.
Put your pinion where it should be. Then drive it and see how bad it is. Check your caster and see what it is vs stock.
Pinion where it should be according to tom woods = -3° of caster (top ball joint tipped forward) although I haven't ever driven it at -3° I have at 0° and its nearly undrivable. I can garuntee that it would be borderline deadly. As by the nature of caster angle the wheels would always want to turn .
I have also spaced up my transfer case about as much as I can without causing tons of other issues.
These seem to be working against eachother. The higher you raise your TC the more you'll need to tip your pinion up.
Brett , tipping the t case up was recommended by tom woods in hope to bring the angle closer to 90° instead of at a positive angle / .
Mongo , with +3°of caster it drives just fine. With 0° its very much on edge , tends to follow road imperfections and does not track straight .
Mongo , with +3°of caster it drives just fine. With 0° its very much on edge , tends to follow road imperfections and does not track straight .
I put 50k miles on mine with 4" and no correction. Didn't drive weird or anything. My moms truck sits at 2.5-3" and has no issues. And she's a grandma.
I still don't understand the issue I guess.
Edit, you lifted the tcase?
I still don't understand the issue I guess.
Edit, you lifted the tcase?