CV's? Front or rear spider gears? Something else?

antichrist

Well-known member
Sep 7, 2004
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Atlanta, GA
'97 discovery, automatic bought last year.
I'm looking for suggestions before I just start taking things apart one at a time.

Yesterday backing out of my drive, which has a slope, as I had the wheels turned hard left to back in to the road, there was a loud clunk and a jerk. It only did it once, sort of a clu-clunk.
I couldn't get it to do it on the flat so I thought maybe something was hitting while off camber, but I drove to the store and while pulling in to a parking spot, again a hard left, it did it again, clu-clunk.

So this is what I've done to isolate the problem.
  • Turned the wheels both right and left and checked for anything hitting. Nothing.
  • Checked rear wheels for hitting anything. Nothing.
  • Put the front end on jack stands and turned the wheels all the way to the left. Rotated the wheels forwards and backwards 10-20 revolutions (of course the other wheel rotates the opposite direction while doing this). Nothing.
  • Then put the rear axle on jack stands also. Started the engine, put it in drive and foot off the brake and let it spin the wheels while turning lock to lock. Nothing.
  • Repeated the above with CDL engaged. Nothing.
  • Put it in reverse and repeated lock to lock. Nothing.
  • All 4 wheels were turning for the above.
  • Took it off the jack stands and backed out of the drive again, wheels turned hard left. Clu-clunk.
  • Backed out of the drive, wheels turned hard right. Nothing.
  • Rolled down the drive in neutral, hard left. Nothing.
  • Rolled down the drive in neutral, hard right. Nothing.
  • On the road in front of the house (flat), backed up hard right. Nothing.
  • Backed up hard left. Nothing.
  • Pulled forward hard left, then hard right. Nothing.
  • Drove down the road about 400 metres, turned around, came back, hard right and left forwards and back. Nothing.
  • Applied the brakes to varying degrees, lightly to hard, driving forwards and back (in case I had a loose caliper or pads). Nothing.
  • As a final test I backed out of the drive again with a hard left and got no noise.
So the places I've recreated the noise since yesterday is backing out of the drive in 'D' applying brakes lightly with a hard left. Once driving forwards on the flat in 'D' applying the brakes lightly.

Two things out of the ordinary:
The previous owner apparently punctured the rear diff cover as I can see where it's been welded and there's a very slow leak. But I haven't seen any nasty bits when changing the gear lube which I've done twice since last year, the last time this past spring. Yes, I'm going to fix it.

The other thing, and much more worrisome, is that several months ago the ignition key broke off at a no parking kerb while I was help my disabled mother out to go in a store.
I had to have it towed home and all they had was a rollback. Since it's an auto I couldn't put it in neutral so they dragged it on in Park, which they assured me would be no issue (yeah, I knew better but was in a rush because of my elderly mother being in the heat).
Anyway, there was a loud clunk about 1/2 on.
When I got back to the house and got the ignition fixed, I checked everything out driving it in all gears and also with CDL engaged and couldn't find any issues.

I'm stumped, though I'm inclined start with inspecting the rear diff since that's the least work and it's had at least some damage in the past.

I'm open to other/better suggestions.

Oh, all suspension bushings except the A-arm (which are on my to-do list along with the ball joint) are new. The ball joint looks ok visually, FWIW.
 

antichrist

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Sep 7, 2004
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Atlanta, GA
Through the whole vehicle. When it first happened I my first thought was that somehow a CV had partly come apart and was smacking the inside of the swivel housing.
 

antichrist

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Sep 7, 2004
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Atlanta, GA
Seems like it is, but definitely open to suggestions.
No, engine and gearbox mounts are fine. Not perfect, but not horrible either.
 

antichrist

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Sep 7, 2004
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68
Atlanta, GA
Update.

Due to life happening I wasn't able to spend more time investigating until now.

Testing it last night it's now making from a quiet tick-tick-tick to really noticeable clack-clack-clack on driveline over run, stopping as soon as I apply even a little power.
That points me towards the gearbox/transfer case.
This isn't the "normal" transfer over run noise you sometimes hear with worn Land Rover transfer cases, though very similar.

This morning I jacked up one front wheel and with it switched on, the (automatic) transmission in neutral and the transfer in high range unlocked (CDL light not illuminated) I can't rotate the front wheel.
When I move the transfer selector to neutral I still can't rotate the front wheel.

I'm thinking the loud bang when it was being dragged on to the tow truck broke something in the CDL selector mechanism that allows the selector to still "work" and illuminate and extinguish the CDL light, but has left the center diff locked this whole time.

I guess I'll have some lunch then work on dropping the transfer box, unless anyone thinks I'm on the wrong track.
As a last test before pulling it I'll disconnect the front prop and see if it will drive with the CDL supposedly unlocked.

Just looking for a sanity check. And please, no comments about it being too late for me.
wink.gif
 

hafaday

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Oct 27, 2006
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Richmond, VA.
This sound like a problem that I had years ago on a 89 F150. long story short, the pinion shaft retaining bolt had backed out of the carrier. fell into the bottom of the diff. housing. then slowly after driving several times, the pinion shaft between the spiders had slid out and wedged it's self in a lip in the bottom of the diff. housing. at 1st I thought this was a fluke, but the second time was a week later (I had still been driving this thing). of course the 2nd time, it exploded. that was when i realized where the "clunk and thunk" had come from.

It could be the damaged rear that you speak of, or in the x-fer case.

just a thought though.
 

antichrist

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Sep 7, 2004
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Atlanta, GA
Well, definitely the transfer. With the front propshaft removed it moved under it's own power with the CDL in the unlocked position. So something is broken inside.
 

antichrist

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Sep 7, 2004
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Atlanta, GA
Well...for now I'm installing a "spare" I have, but I'll need to use it in something else later on. I'll keep it in mind, depending on what exactly is broken and how much it will cost to fix it.
 

antichrist

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Sep 7, 2004
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Atlanta, GA
ptschram said:
Have you tried moving the diff lock lever manually, with the linkage disconnected?
Not yet. But it does move the internal bit that operates the indicator light.

There was a lot more bits of metal on the drain plug than should be (hasn't been too long since I changed the gear lube).
 

antichrist

Well-known member
Sep 7, 2004
8,208
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68
Atlanta, GA
I guess the moral of the story is that just because the CDL light works doesn't mean the transfer box beyond the lock selector fork is working.
 

Hammertime

Well-known member
Nov 14, 2009
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I had that happen. I called and talked to numerous people to try to figure why it was locked in even though the selector said it was not. It stayed locked no matter what. Took it to Canada on the Lucky 8 Easter Expedition drove it hard off road for a week. When I got home I pulled the CDL tore it apart and just like PT said the diff in the CDL had snapped the cross shafts into. The good news is that when that happened the spider gears froze to the broken shafts. If they had not I would not have been able to go onthe trip. Some more good news is that you can take the cross pins out of any of the other CdL's including the non-selectable one. clean the case out good put it alll basck together. Good as new. Any guestions on how to do this let me know.