WOW!!! we well those Irwin sockets at My workplace!!!! thats a plan!DiscoJen said:Definately 1/2 sockets and long ass breaker bar. It works best if you have someone put pressure directly on the socket from above to help keep it on straight while someone pulls on a big azz breaker bar so the socket doesn't slip off and round the bolt head. Otherwise, since you gotta buy new head bolts anyways (and BTW Will is an excellent source for those - thanks again Will!) you might as well consider using the extractor sockets (I used the set that Irwin makes in the handy little blue case). They dug right in and yanked out the bolts that my socket slipped on and rounded.
When I did mine I used a 4ft long extention on my socket, like Tim the Tool Man GRRRRR, more muscle grunt grunt grunt, GGRRRRMorpheus said:I have removed all but the back 2 on my 96 D1...these dont seem to want to crack loose....any tips or tricks to pop em? maybe some ratched/extension/swivel combos that work for You? I need to get this off to get it machined for this weekend. Thankz!
yeah the Leverage and long breaker bas worked on the other 8 head bolts,but the ones in the back are a bitch!!! yough to find the right 1/2 extension to allow you to use the breaker bar ABOVE the eneing bay....but not to long as to make it wobble....I have been using a 16mm socket,im assuming thats correct?WILL.TILLERY said:its all about leverage.
damn...i didnt even think about that!!! Hopefully all will be well.....imtrying to get them off so i can have them machined if they are still good. you say "so i can push straight down" thats not possible on the rear ones correct?agbuckle98 said:I actually end up using a 16mm shallow 1/2" drive socket abd breaker bar and position it so I can push straight down on it once I am sure the socket is fully engaged with the bolt head. Also, for future reference, you should be removing the head bolts in the reverse order that you tighten them, so you should be left with the middle ones to remove last, not the end ones. That will reduce the possibility of warping or cracking a head during removal. It's not as critical as following the sequence when tightening, but still important with aluminum heads.
Morpheus said:damn...i didnt even think about that!!! Hopefully all will be well.....imtrying to get them off so i can have them machined if they are still good. you say "so i can push straight down" thats not possible on the rear ones correct?
I got em all out this evening!!! Head is at the machine shop right now...doesnt look warped at all...they are just going to clean it up a little..cant wait to get it back on the road againDiscoJen said:If you get the hood back far enough you should. Not sure on a Disco, but on my P38 there is a little lever on the hood hinge that will release it to go ALL the back. Then I stood on a bucket to be able to bear my weight down on 'em.