D1 1997 - No Start/Crank/Click

robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
70
12
Seattle
This is the part where I tuck my tail between my legs and walk away. Tested battery, came back fine. went back to car with a wire brush and vigorously scrubbed every contact between battery/starter/grounds. Everything starts up like a charm again.

Its back...grumble

FINAL EDIT (RESOLUTION): Replaced ground from battery and power to starter. Cleaned off contacts at all grounding locations. Replaced Starter (and heat shield) with known good used starter from local contact and everything fires up right away, even after driving which i would sometimes have issues with.

All weird electrical stuff has gone away, remote FOBS work again. My rpms still dont work but i get that from the Ultragauge anyways.

Thanks for everyones help!


Hello!

This is the first time my Discovery 1997 has not started on me. Ive had a couple rough starts the last 2 days and today, after driving back from the dog park, its finally stopped starting.

When I originally had starting problems, it would turn over and i would hear clicking until it finally started up. Now, i put the key in, turn positions 2, hear fuel pump start, turn to position 3 and there are no other sounds. No cranking from starter, no clicking from starter relay, nothing.

Things ive checked:
battery seems to be in ok shape - outputting 12.6 yesterday, now its at 12.35 after all the start tries (will try jumping with other car). With alternator, it outputs about 14.1-14.2 and under load (lights, ac) its 13.9.
In another thread, there was mention that if the headlights dip when starting then it could be the battery - not getting any sort of dip.
Tried starting in Park and Neutral
Checked RAVE and it refers to either "See AUTOMATIC GEARBOX, Repair, Inhibitor Switch" which seems like an easy enough thing to check or "See the Electrical Trouble Shooting Manual". In the Electrical manual, it refers to a lot of steps regarding the anti-theft system.

Is it possible its been disabled due to some underlying issue with the anti-theft system?

Things I need to check:
grounding and power to starter - Done (replacing)
grounding for everything else - Done (replacing)

Things Ive ordered:
New starter relay (no clicking with key in position 3)

Things im looking to order if its not relay:
new battery if this one somehow lost its CCA power
new starter
new crankshaft positions sensor (although i didnt have any issues with it actually running)
new alternator?

I would love any help i can get. I will have the new starter relay here in 2 days so ill be able to test that out. What would be my next step? checking power/ground to starter? should i hear the starter relay even if the starter isnt getting proper power/grounding?

Thank you,
Rob

EDIT: I went back today to check on it. I beleive I do hear a "click" in the passenger side when i put the key into position 2 and then when i turn it to 3 and off, there is a another click but fainter. Is that the starter relay?

EDIT 2:
THings I have checked:
grounding and power need to be replaced.

Going the replacing cabling route before putting new starter in. It is currently starting after cleaning off power/ground on starter.
 
Last edited:

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
4,160
69
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The relay clicking could be one of the accessories (Fan, radio amp, etc) turning off when the key goes to start position. This is normal.
First thing to check: Does the check engine light go on then off when you turn the car on? If not, you got ecu or alarm problems.
 
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StangGT5

Well-known member
Feb 4, 2019
60
16
Atlanta, GA
Like Swedjen2 said, I would check your grounds. I played musical chairs with a few starters and batteries trying to fix a slow or no start condition after an engine rebuild on my dad's 96. Turns out the ground cable on the passenger side was no good. I hooked a beefy one farther up between frame and accessory bracket, and it spins like crazy now.
 
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robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
70
12
Seattle
UPDATE: I got the heatshield off (that was rough, i should have taken the O2 sensor off), cleaned the terminals on the starter, hooked the battery back up and the starter was alive again...but barely. I was able to get it to start each time but its a SLOOOOOOOW start.

I have a new starter from a local guy. I am going to get new power and grounding cables as those seem to be pretty rough after inspection.

New issue - remote fobs dont work after disconnecting battery but ill leave that one alone as key entry is still ok.
 

robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
70
12
Seattle
When is the last time you inspected the grounds? Is usually something simple......usually.
Im hoping this is the most probable solution. i cleaned off the contacts on the starter and it allowed the vehicle to start after a solid 5-10 seconds. Getting new cables today.
 

robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
70
12
Seattle
Like Swedjen2 said, I would check your grounds. I played musical chairs with a few starters and batteries trying to fix a slow or no start condition after an engine rebuild on my dad's 96. Turns out the ground cable on the passenger side was no good. I hooked a beefy one farther up between frame and accessory bracket, and it spins like crazy now.
Do you by any chance remember the lengths you used? Im going to Oriellys today to get new cabling. I think this might be the issue as well.
 
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robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
70
12
Seattle
The relay clicking could be one of the accessories (Fan, radio amp, etc) turning off when the key goes to start position. This is normal.
First thing to check: Does the check engine light go on then off when you turn the car on? If not, you got ecu or alarm problems.
No lights (besides abs which is because it was disconnected and i put the light bulb back in) once the vehicle starts. Going the grounding route first.
 

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
4,160
69
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If the abs light goes on and not the check engine its not grounding.

do you have anything plugged into the obd2 port? Do you have a key fob and does it work?
 

robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
70
12
Seattle
If the abs light goes on and not the check engine its not grounding.

do you have anything plugged into the obd2 port? Do you have a key fob and does it work?
The ABS light is because the previous owner disabled it adnd removed the light bulb. It doesnt throw any codes a OBD2 reader picks up. They took out the fuse in the engine bay. I didnt find out (nor look for it) since they took the light bulb out of the dashboard and no codes showed up. I have to order a new fuse for the ABS engine bay and plan on getting that working again.

I have an ultragauge in the OBD2. The Key fobs did work until i disconnected the battery and reconnected it. Ill take that to the LR garage down the way to have them reprogram for me.
 

robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
4,160
69
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the key fobs worked until you unhooked the vehicle battery? If so sounds like the alarm has immobilized the truck.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,561
255
Northern Illinois
the key fobs worked until you unhooked the vehicle battery? If so sounds like the alarm has immobilized the truck.
The check engine light will be off w/key on engine off if its immobilized by security. If the switch in the door lock is working you could probably reset it by locking and unlocking the door with the key(drivers door only has the sw). If not you could try to disconnect the battery then reconnect it with the key on. I've had luck with that.
 
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robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
4,160
69
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Also, remove the ultragauge. It may not be closing communication and keeping the ecu relay latched. It only looks for the alarm signal when it turns on, so if it misses it you have to turn it off long enough for the under hood relay to drop out (about 6 seconds if theres no obd2 scanner traffic)
 
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robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
70
12
Seattle
Hold up, I think I have crossed some signals here.

I have the truck running again but the starter is slow to actually start the truck. Taking the heat shield off and cleaning the contacts has allowed the starter to get power again. I am going to take it a step further since its still a slow start and replace all the cabling going to it and the grounding from the battery and if that doesnt work I have a starter from a reputable LR guy in area I can swap in.

KEY FOB issue: When i disconnected the battery to perform the work and hooked the battery back up again, the key fobs (I have 2) stopped working. This has not immobilized the truck. I can still start it and the keys still unlock the door, just not the key fobs. I can see the alarm arming and disarming itself in the dash.

ABS: This is a completely different issue that I didnt know was an issue until i tried to figure out why the rpm tach wasnt working a month ago. I tried a different instrument panel and noticed the bulb was missing, ive since replaced the bulb and it lights up now. I have ordered a 30amp fuseable link from AB to install and see if I can get that working again.

I hope this clears up any confusion.
 

robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
70
12
Seattle
Also, remove the ultragauge. It may not be closing communication and keeping the ecu relay latched. It only looks for the alarm signal when it turns on, so if it misses it you have to turn it off long enough for the under hood relay to drop out (about 6 seconds if theres no obd2 scanner traffic)
Ill try unplugging the Ultragauge and see what it does. Thanks!
 

robbyb20

Well-known member
Oct 2, 2019
70
12
Seattle
The check engine light will be off w/key on engine off if its immobilized by security. If the switch in the door lock is working you could probably reset it by locking and unlocking the door with the key(drivers door only has the sw). If not you could try to disconnect the battery then reconnect it with the key on. I've had luck with that.
Keys have always work, just not key fobs now. I will take them in to get reprogrammed as something mucked it up when i pulled power to the battery. If there is a way to get them synced on my own, im all ears as I dont want to have to pay for that if need be.

Also, truck is running now. Had to clean off contacts, now onto replacing wiring.
 

Harv

Well-known member
I'm not sure if this works on D2, but to resynch fob on my P38, turn and hold key in lock position, while holding in lck position, press and hold lock button on fob for a second or two, then do the same in the unlock position. It doesn't matter which order you do this.
 

eXtraDutyDisco

Well-known member
Dec 6, 2011
222
14
Oregon
Perfect timing for this thread... my '97 XD is behaving exactly the same. I've pulled the exhaust (another project that was overdue) and am waiting for the starter to show up from England. I figured it's overdue since it's been sluggish on start for a while and the battery and alt are brand new. Wiring looks good and I replaced the ground last OCT with the Alt. Following/joining this thread to join forces. Good luck!