D1 1997 - No Start/Crank/Click

eXtraDutyDisco

Well-known member
Dec 6, 2011
222
14
Oregon
I am still waiting for my Denso starter to arrived. Here is a list of some starters that will work in our trucks

O'Reileys 17453

Autozone 17009

Advance Auto 17453S, SR0802X

Napa RAY 2446551, BSH SR0802X

Parts Geek 288-07135636, 288-05073524, W0133-1599752

Rock Auto NAD101490, 17453N, 17009, 17453, 3361571, DRS3719, DRS3198, 458566

BOSCH STARTER #'S 01109040, 187-0779, 0-001-109-040, SR0801X, 111865, S-6171, 410-24045, NAD101190, NAD101490, LRT00169, 12445, 17683, VS470, 17453N, 17792N, 2-1899-BO, 2-2714-BO-2, 91-15-7105, SBO0060, 187-0467, 0-001-110-120, SR0801X, 111865, S-6171, ERR6087, ERR6087E, LRT00169, 17705, 17317, STR-2228, 458253, VS470, 567808, 17453N, 17792N, 2-2714-BO-2, 91-15-7039: LESTER 17792 / PIC # 120-387


Post was edited to add the Bosch starters to the list, thanks to the repair post by p m.

Hopefully one of those helps somebody.
I ended up going with this: https://www.classiccarperformance.c...s/land-rover-v8-3-5l-3-9l-4-0l-4-2l-4-4l-4-6l

Got it installed yesterday (with slight mods to the wiring) and my XD fires up like a beauty!
 

Toran

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2017
194
11
Ohio
That’s the same one I ordered, still waiting for delivery.

Is this starter really smaller?
Was it easier to install?
Did you still need an extension to install the top bolt?

Thanks
 

eXtraDutyDisco

Well-known member
Dec 6, 2011
222
14
Oregon
That’s the same one I ordered, still waiting for delivery.

Is this starter really smaller?
Was it easier to install?
Did you still need an extension to install the top bolt?

Thanks
Yes, it is smaller.

no, didn’t need an extension for the top bolt, but I have skinny arms and was able to reach it from the side with the wheel removed.

it was easy to install, except I had to bend the lead wire flat (from 90°) and make a short extension wire for the sampler spaded wire.

I tied twice and it fires up like a rocket. Sounded like one too, since I haven’t put my muffler back on yet...
 
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Toran

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2017
194
11
Ohio
Installed a brand new starter today and same click sound, no crank at all, battery is fully charged. Ol rats my multimeter bit the dust. I will get another one tomorrow.

Is the main ground somewhere under the radiator?
I think the ground strip that connects to the starter mounting bolt is in need of replacing. I feel with fingers from the starter bolt to somewhere on the frame but I couldn't see the bolt. Where would be another good place to attach a newer strip? Hopefully somewhere more visible.

I will see if I can replace the positive cable from the battery to the starter.

As for the small spade connection where does that tie in exactly? I tried following it from the starter but I seem to have lost it as it continued upward near the drive belt.

I switch out the relays under the passenger footwell with a 40amp but not change.

So tomorrow I will:
Replace positive and negative cables from the battery.
And the negative cable from the battery goes to a ground somewhere under the radiator?
Positive cable from battery goes to starter.

Any jumper wires I need to place in areas?
Any other tips & tricks would be greatly appreciated

Thanks
 

Icannap1

Well-known member
Mar 3, 2015
95
6
OC, CA
Try getting a set of jumper cables and only connect the black ground clamp at the battery negative terminal and the other end of the ground black cable to the exterior mounting bolt of the starter or ground it to the metal bar that supports the transfer case by the starter. If the rover starts you have to replace the ground cable. If the rover doesn't start check continuity on the battery positive cable by first disconnecting both terminals of the battery cables at the battery then checking continuity on the positive terminal red cable at the battery end and the other end at the starter red cable. Make sure that the battery is disconnected and that the terminals are clean. Set the meter to ohms and it should be as close as possible to zero ohms if you have more than that the battery cable may have corrosion in the cable and it will need to be replaced.
 

Toran

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2017
194
11
Ohio
Icannap1,

Thanks for the response.
I followed your instructions to the letter. I ended up replacing the battery positive and negative cable, along with the ground strap that connects to the bottom bolt of the starter. Cleaned up the battery terminals and and took a wire brush to all connection at the battery post. The battery read 12.65v (it lives on a ctek charger when not driven).

Got inside looking for some goodness but nothing happen, it was the same thing as before, no crank, just the single click from the passenger footwell.

I was able to put a jumper wire on the starter and from underneath I could see and hear the engine turn for a moment. I imagine the fuel would need to be on to complete the process.

Is this an ignition issue?
This would mean the first starter was old but it was still working. The brand new replacement is doing the same thing which would eliminate a bad starter solenoid.

What are your thoughts?
Is it that time when you tell me how to toggle a switch to the starter so I drive and be somewhat happy again. I am all ears so by all means take me to school and please break it down where a student can understand.

T.I.A.
 

Toran

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2017
194
11
Ohio
p m,
Thanks for the response.
I put a jumper wire going from the small blade terminal to the fat one.

What are your thoughts?
T.I.A.
 

p m

Administrator
Apr 19, 2004
14,566
193
55
La Jolla, CA
www.3rj.org
OK, that likely means your starter is fine, the solenoid in the starter is fine as well.
You need to hook up a test light between the engine block and either blade or fat terminal, and see if the light goes on when you hear the click while getting the ignition key in the start position.
If it doesn't, check the ground strap between the engine block and body, and starter relay.
 

Toran

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2017
194
11
Ohio
Thanks for the response.
As of now as a temporary setup I wired a momentary switch to the starter to get up and running. The starter fires right up and I can get my business done once again. I do recall a few years ago when my key would get stuck in the ignition. I came across a mod on this forum that involved removing the ignition switch from the truck and filing down a few lock tumblers. I reinstalled everything in the truck back than and never had a problem with turning the key or have it stuck in the ignition. Fast forward to now I am wondering if my ignition switch has simply expired?

After replacing both battery cables along with the ground strap that connects to the starter it was still a no go when turning the key - only the sound of the relay in the passenger footwell. I would think this has nothing to do with the alarm or safety switch since the momentary switch turns on the starter to rotate the engine and off we go with the truck running as usual.

Looks like an aftermarket ignition switch for the 5 speed can be had for under $100.00
The ignition switch for a automatic is still had by the OEM can cost over $500.00

Again this momentary switch is a temp fix to get me out of a jam. All this time I thought it was the starter, so I removed it and took it apart thinking the brushes needed to be replaced. I ordered the Denso high torque starter from classiccarperformance.com. Due to the covid-19 and protest I still have yet to receive the starter as of the time I am writing this now. So I ended up by a new starter from a local parts store. Hopefully I will be starter proof for awhile now since previously I had no backup starter anything.
 

Toran

Well-known member
Feb 3, 2017
194
11
Ohio
My NipponDenso starter that rocks 1.9HP finally arrived.
As a followup from the beginning of this thread it appears my no start issue was related to the ignition switch wire. I say that because although my original starter brushes seemed low, the truck never had an issue starting. I replaced it with a new starter an still the same thing. The modifications I made to the ignition switch a few years ago prevented my key from getting stuck in the key cylinder due to its age and usage of those tiny moving parts. I think I was on "borrowed ignition switch time" anyway. I still have yet to replace the ignition switch but I am pretty sure it’s the issue. Again, I say this because the truck fires right up with the first replacement starter. Fires up faster with this new NipponDensor beast.

Thank you Everyone that shared their experience, once again the forum of Good People helped keep the Rover on the road yet again, and put more knowledge under my cap!

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