D1 front drive shaft replacement with a D2 double-cardan joint driveshaft?

[terryjm1]

Thanks to everyone that has pitched in on this and another related post. I have learned a lot. I will find out next week if my deceleration noise goes away.

As far as a correction goes, I believe that link is for a 2 hole version.

For the REAR driveshaft, to summarize:

Try to get the pinion flange to be one (1) degree less than the transfer-case flange angle.​

e.g.: Lets say the transfer case is ~86º (the crank centerline being ~5º tail-down from parallel) relative to the ground, so you are shooting for the rear axle pinion flange to be ~85º when the wagon is unladen. This gives some "settling room" to bring the median angle into ~0º ish parallel alignment between the two flanges.​

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And this can be achieved by using 3 inch (3-hole) exhaust flanges (e.g.: header collector flanges) as shims for the rear trailing arms, such as these: https://www.amazon.com/Slmnliras-Exhaust-Flange-Connection-Downpipe/dp/B0C2C81PTD (note: the example I included comes with two steel flanges and one gasket for ~$19USD as of this post, so if you don't need the extra gasket it will save a few bucks).​

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Please correct me as necessary

 

[kris812]

The item I listed for 1x flange and 1x gasket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09P4Z5QT2
Has the perfect 85mm 3-hole spacing. 77mm main hole was a little tight on my TF poly bushings but loose on the stock. 10mm thick and super strong 304 Stainless Steal that nearly took out my grinder wheel smoothing the inside bore hole.

As for the driveline angles sounds like you are on mark. I recommend watching some of Tom Woods YouTube videos before getting into it too deep to confirm angles I mentioned.

I personally aimed for -0 degrees knowing -1 degrees is ideal. Plus I have poly bushings, so less twisting.
I ended up with +1 degrees and runs so smooth I'm not changing it again.

Again, I have TF trailing arms and bushings so YMMV with 10mm spacers.
And ALL angles were tested/set on the ground, semi loaded (normal city driving weights)

 

[terryjm1]

I am just going to put the spacers in without the gaskets and see if there is improvement. After driving a bit I will get under it and check the angles. This one came with the springs it has and I don’t know the manufacturer or rating. They are very firm, though. The trailing arms are pretty easy to R&R so I don’t mind doing it a couple times. I drove it around with the front driveshaft removed and the sound did not change, so I assume it is coming from the rear. I am learning a lot about lifts with this one. I think I will stop at 2 inches for the next one.