Hey there,
I am new here, a dumb girl.
So my 1997 non-advanced evap D1 threw p1177, and then died a few times during a ride. Took the pressure at the rail (with a tire gauge, I LOVED the big argument on here about whether you can do that!) and it was zero. Took off the fuel filter and it was dripping black goop. It's spitting carbon when it starts.
Because I am a genius, I accidentally put the bad filter back on. Died again the next day. Towed home, new filter and new plugs. Started right up and I felt fancy and carefree all the way to the grocery store, where it died again coasting into the parking space.
I can get it started with much effort and swearing if I press my foot to the floor on startup and then two-foot the whole way, it wants to stall at every red light and is bucking on cruise. I am guessing I pushed my fuel pump too hard and it's giving up? It was a cheap one, the OEM design but not OEM. I can hear it, though I don't try to hear it every time so I can't say it's going every time. Pressure at the rail when it has NOT been zero has been about 26, 28. Shy of 30.
Pending codes are P0102 and and p1172 and of course a p3999.
I checked the relays at the back wheel and under the hood in that I looked at them and they booth look ancient but sealed and quite undisturbed. I opened the one under the hood and put some dieletric gel on the contacts. I have looked at the vacuum lines and I see no obvious cracks. I cleaned the MAF this weekend, did a NEW NEW filter, and am waiting for a new fuel pump that was supposed to come Saturday but didn't ARGH, a Delco. I also ordered a new cheap MAF because I have never had a MAF survive cleaning (this would be my third one). I've also wiped out the air intake and would LOVE to replace the IACV because I will bet that it's filthy, the intake feels filthy, but I have like $.08 in my bank account till Weds. I'll try to stick a Q-tip in there today.
If the fuel pump arrives today, I am too spooked to even try to start it. I'll check pressure at the rail and see what you all have to say.
When I get paid (I'm on disability, I have this stupid form of blood cancer that's trying to kill me), I will look into writing harnesses for the fuel pump. This would be my third one to fail. I read a similar post here and the dude fixed the issue with a wiring harness. ***I do not know how to work a multimeter***
Do ya think I will get it running? Yes, I know if I bought OEM I would prob do better. I still haven't really isolated the issue, I feel. Maybe you see otherwise. I know most indications point to the pump. Is it possible for it to run, yet run under capacity before giving out? Is that what follows a stoppered up filter? Is the minimum pressure at the rail 32? Is there consensus on psi at the rail?
I got the filter clogged (less than 7,000 miles on it) because I did a part-time job that involved secret shopping a gas station chain and I think their gas is filthy.
I am new here, a dumb girl.
So my 1997 non-advanced evap D1 threw p1177, and then died a few times during a ride. Took the pressure at the rail (with a tire gauge, I LOVED the big argument on here about whether you can do that!) and it was zero. Took off the fuel filter and it was dripping black goop. It's spitting carbon when it starts.
Because I am a genius, I accidentally put the bad filter back on. Died again the next day. Towed home, new filter and new plugs. Started right up and I felt fancy and carefree all the way to the grocery store, where it died again coasting into the parking space.
I can get it started with much effort and swearing if I press my foot to the floor on startup and then two-foot the whole way, it wants to stall at every red light and is bucking on cruise. I am guessing I pushed my fuel pump too hard and it's giving up? It was a cheap one, the OEM design but not OEM. I can hear it, though I don't try to hear it every time so I can't say it's going every time. Pressure at the rail when it has NOT been zero has been about 26, 28. Shy of 30.
Pending codes are P0102 and and p1172 and of course a p3999.
I checked the relays at the back wheel and under the hood in that I looked at them and they booth look ancient but sealed and quite undisturbed. I opened the one under the hood and put some dieletric gel on the contacts. I have looked at the vacuum lines and I see no obvious cracks. I cleaned the MAF this weekend, did a NEW NEW filter, and am waiting for a new fuel pump that was supposed to come Saturday but didn't ARGH, a Delco. I also ordered a new cheap MAF because I have never had a MAF survive cleaning (this would be my third one). I've also wiped out the air intake and would LOVE to replace the IACV because I will bet that it's filthy, the intake feels filthy, but I have like $.08 in my bank account till Weds. I'll try to stick a Q-tip in there today.
If the fuel pump arrives today, I am too spooked to even try to start it. I'll check pressure at the rail and see what you all have to say.
When I get paid (I'm on disability, I have this stupid form of blood cancer that's trying to kill me), I will look into writing harnesses for the fuel pump. This would be my third one to fail. I read a similar post here and the dude fixed the issue with a wiring harness. ***I do not know how to work a multimeter***
Do ya think I will get it running? Yes, I know if I bought OEM I would prob do better. I still haven't really isolated the issue, I feel. Maybe you see otherwise. I know most indications point to the pump. Is it possible for it to run, yet run under capacity before giving out? Is that what follows a stoppered up filter? Is the minimum pressure at the rail 32? Is there consensus on psi at the rail?
I got the filter clogged (less than 7,000 miles on it) because I did a part-time job that involved secret shopping a gas station chain and I think their gas is filthy.
Last edited: