d2 rotor help

[jamsandwich]

just got my ebc rotors and pads and im ready to take the rotor off the front passenger side. i followed the instructions in rave, took out the 2 bolts, tied the caliper, took out the screw, and that bastard won't budge. i've got 82k miles on it so i know its on pretty good.

any advice for removal? i pb blasted around the bolts that seem to be what its catching on, but i cant get the damn thing off:banghead:

do i need to crowbar that sob?

 

[macklow]

hammer?

 

[ptschram]

Two-jaw puller.

 

[scottjal]

Actually you might prefer a three jaw puller or you could end up like me. I had the same problem you have now with my rear rotors, check out this thread:
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=22805&highlight=rotor

http://www.discoweb.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=14364&stc=1&d=1155213068

 

[scottjal]

Oh and god bless ebay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230006415232

I never did find the big puller at Sears, might be a regional item. Keep in mind it has to have a jaw spread of over 11.5" which is a BIG puller.

Do check with your local tool and equipment rental places, they did have a 2 jaw one that I could rent and is pictured in the above post.

 

[jmoore]

I got mine off my tapping (beating) it with a mallet.

 

[jamsandwich]

rented a 5 ton 3 jaw puller from auto zone (free)

worked like a charm. thanks d-web.

my final question is how do you get the pistons fully into their bores without the use of the land rover tool called for in rave?

 

[jmoore]

Try a C Clamp and open the bleeder screw to relieve the pressure.

 

[scottjal]

Almost all auto stores have a tool specifically for this, looks a bit like half of a C clamp and you force the piston back in with that knob/screw. Sometimes you can get lucky and just force it back with your fingers by squeezing too. Watch your brake fluid reservoir level, it may overflow.

You do NOT need the special wrench adaptor that has different pins so that you can screw the piston back in. This is used on some vehicles that have the emergency brakes at the wheels/caliper unlike the rovers.

 

[jamsandwich]

i've opened the resovoir cap, but im not sure which screw you are talking about.

is it near the rotor/pad assembly or closer to the resovoir/pump

 

[scottjal]

Bleeder screw? It is a bolt with a hole drilled through it and a nipple to attach a hose to capture the fluid that runs out. Just crack it open, don't remove it. One on each caliper at the high spot to allow the air out.

Try a C Clamp and open the bleeder screw to relieve the pressure.

I heard of this method and the reasoning behind it was you aren't forcing the garbage that settled down at the caliper back up into the brake cylinder / ABS pump. I rather like that but I think it is way too easy to get air in the system while you are fumbeling around with the C clamp or chosen device to force the cylinder back in the caliper. Follow up with some bleeding.

 

[jmoore]

I heard of this method and the reasoning behind it was you aren't forcing the garbage that settled down at the caliper back up into the brake cylinder / ABS pump. I rather like that but I think it is way too easy to get air in the system while you are fumbeling around with the C clamp or chosen device to force the cylinder back in the caliper. Follow up with some bleeding.

I've heard that too. And if you are changing the rotors might as well go ahead and change the brake fluid unless it's brand new. They are not too difficult to bleed.

 

[ptschram]

They are not too difficult to bleed.

Sometimes, they can be very difficult to bleed. If I didn't have to, I'd avoid having to bleed the brakes on just about anything.

PT

 

[jamsandwich]

yes i would very much like to avoid bleeding the brakes, but if i use the screw method am i going to have to do this? im moving out for college on saturday, the d2 has no front brakes, and im getting desperate

 

[Discoinjapan]

87K, You may want to do some preventive maint on your swivels balls while your there and maybe check your pre load if you havent done so already.

 

[jamsandwich]

i have no time for that right now. damnit. haha
im depserate man, i got 8 hours to change my brakes.
besides 02 sensors, maf and abs lights are next

:-/

 

[Discoinjapan]

8 hours should be plenty of time after you get the first one done it will go alot faster.
OH! wait a minute , how many beers have you had?

Good luck.

 

[jamsandwich]

i've moved past beer. I'm onto rum at this point

 

[jamsandwich]

and the reason i have done so is all my brake fluid in the resovoir leaked from the front passenger caliper/hose fitting so now there is no brake fluid in that line or my resovoir.

i have taken the caliper out and disconnected the hose as a result, and i STILL can not force that damn piston back in, even with a vice. i pushed one side all the way in, and the other side came out and appears to be a little crooked. i'm leaving tommorow for school, the car is staying at home, my dad wants it fixed. i even called land rover charlotte to try and buy a new caliper and they don't have one in stock.

at this point i think my only option is going to be to tow it to a specialist shop i know about and pay them to do it for me. damnit.

any advice?

 

[Owen Birch]

depending on which side it is, you could take a longer flat board, put the caliper on the ground, the board on the top of the piston, and then step on the sides of the board, so the piston is in the center. This will balance the pressure...

Also, don't worry about the fluid. when the caliper's back on, have your pop fill the reservoir while you puimp the brakes. You'll then need to bleed at least the brake you took off, maybe only that brake since the fluid is still in the others (am I right?). Keep pumping until the pedal barely moves, have your pop open the bleeder screw SLOWLY, let the fluid go all over the rags, and then pump up again, and repeat until your pop says there's no more bubbles... It's not too hard, and shouldn't take too long.