And 5.0 engine jobs suck!
Well typically the water pumps leak, then the engine over heats and melts down. So we have to replace the engine and to do that you have to pull the body off the chassis. Alot of work for little pay!
Can you please elaborate on this? Some folks here might one day consider buying a 5.0 Jag V8 Rover and it would be helpful to know what the challenges are.
Firstly, you don't have to pull the body, but it is nice to be able to assemble the motor completely without the body in the way. Secondly, our dealership has only done 2 motors in 5.0L trucks, so I wouldn't be too concerned about it. Its a good motor.
e, people just are not smart enough to check their coolant or stop driveing when temp gauge is pegged out. l.
Told him DO NOT DIAGNOSE IT DO NOT DRILL THE PLUG IN THE PLENUM
So that trip to the dealer cost me $175 + a replacement plenum so who is to blame the writer?
Singingcamel, I guess you are right - most criticisms were directed at the dealer. But what dealer is really good on 10-20 years old cars? They are all in the same boat . . . high turnover, no one who knows the vintage vehicles.
I have a larger concern when it comes to Land Rover . . . the new vehicles are really passenger vehicles, not off roaders. They seem to have left that whole segment behind. And I don't know if Tata cares. I don't see much to connect the Defender or Classic to the Evoque and other new LR products.
I wonder what that means for our community. What do you think?
I could be wrong, but isn't part of the issue with messing with the base idle adjustment screw that its next to impossible to get it back to the factory setting? Unless the tech happened to count exactly how much he turned that screw and then happened to actually relay that info to the owner, which seems unlikely.Why would you need a new plenum? You can buy the plug...
Their diagnosis was that one side of the used ignition coils were bad. And that it had been running so bad that it fouled the plugs. There suggestion is to put new coil and plugs. I was already into it for 3-4 hours of labor with diagnosis so went ahead and having them fix it. He said he would see if he can reduce labor rate and get me some kind of deal. I will let you know what kind of "deal" he gives me.
I could be wrong, but isn't part of the issue with messing with the base idle adjustment screw that its next to impossible to get it back to the factory setting? Unless the tech happened to count exactly how much he turned that screw and then happened to actually relay that info to the owner, which seems unlikely.
Glad it seems to be working out for you, the Buick dealer I worked used to credit part of the diagnosis fee toward. The labor for repair so you would not take it somewhere cheaper for the repair, this way they made diagnosis $ , repair labor $, and parts $ plus you feel like you were getting a deal
The tech cranked the screw in tight on my plenum so to me it is worthless, that plug is not supposed to be removed I believe even the rave states it I could be wrong.
It is like the old computer carbs with plugs on the front, guys would remove plugs and turn screws thinking they were adjusting mixture but all they were doingis screwing up the Carb/ computer those screws need something hooked up to read dwell angle on GM cars iirc
4. Fit blanking hoses to both plenum chamber and air by-pass valve. Ensure hoses are securely fitted to prevent air leaks. Note throttle cable and cruise control actuator have been omitted from illustration.
6. Drill tamper proof plug and insert a self tapping screw to enable plug to be extracted.
7. Start engine, adjust idles crew clockwise to decrease or counter-clockwise to increase idle speed.
8. Stop engine, remove blanking hoses. Reconnect hose to plenum.
9. Fit new tamper proof plug.