Death Wobble Experts - PLEASE ADVISE

[Knightspirit]

Background:

Bought the truck at about 150K. Did some minor repairs to get it running good and be reliable. Drove it twice for over 300 miles with no problems - other than very loose steering.

What I replaced:

Due to the steering issue - I just bought a complete bushing kit for the front and rear - plus all new ball joints.
- Replaced all of the ball joints, all bushings front and rear - including rear axle ball joint.
- My drag link was a little bent - so replaced that.
- adjusted the steering box - steering still loose.
- replaced the steering shaft - now everything is super tight.

After doing all of this - the death wobble appears.

- Replaced the steering damper.
- completely rebuilt both swivels/hubs both sides - new upper and lower pins and bearings, seals, wheel bearings etc. Adjusted preload, axle float, CV float.
- replaced upper shock bushings.
- Alignment is good

Test drove it yesterday - and I am almost undriveable at this point - any slight bump sets it off - full on death wobble. Can happen at any speed - even 20 mph.

Next steps:

The manual suggests loosening the three steering box bolts - driving over some bumps and making some sudden stops to "settle the steering components". I will do this today - long shot for sure.
I am on the verge of new shocks and springs - but I am hesitant to spend that kind of money if it just continues to wobble - especially considering it drove fine before the bushing/ball joint "upgrade".

Is there something I could have done that caused this?
Why did it not wobble before replacing bushings and ball joints?
Is it worth replacing the shocks just to see what happens? (I don't see any shock problems - they seem fine)

I've got to find this problem or I have a nice running, good looking truck that I can't drive! Never mind the time and money already spent on it....

 

[logan_gibson]

You say you replaced all of the bushings.
Did you replace the panhard rod bushings and bolts?

 

[jymmiejamz]

I would double check to make sure the pan hard rod bolts are really tight. If you bought Britpart bushings, double check all of them.

 

[Knightspirit]

Panhard bushings were replaced - however - in grabbing the bar and twisting it - there is a little movement there - which might be something? I used LR bushings - not the polybush.

 

[logan_gibson]

Panhard bushings were replaced - however - in grabbing the bar and twisting it - there is a little movement there - which might be something? I used LR bushings - not the polybush.

Yes, Check the bolts. Possible they are worn as well as the holes for the mount. I had one that the holes were ob-longed and the bolts very worn.

 

[Knightspirit]

Bolts are new - but good point - maybe a new panhard bar is in order. I just checked it again - and it's actually totally tight - no twist at all. Maybe I'll remove it and re-check the holes.

 

[Knightspirit]

Yes, Check the bolts. Possible they are worn as well as the holes for the mount. I had one that the holes were ob-longed and the bolts very worn.

Well I'll be damned - just removed the panhard bar and lo and behold - one of the new bushings was completely shot. Must have been damaged when pressed in (I had it done - was before I bought a shop press). Thinking I will just replace the whole thing with a Terrafirma adjustable so I am future proof. This makes perfect sense - as the wobble started right AFTER replacing the bushings!

I'll put the new bar on and update after.

Thanks!

 

[jymmiejamz]

I got a new aftermarket non adjustable pan hard from Rovers North. Its been in there over a year now with no issues. I don't like that gold finish on the Terra Firma stuff. The RN one is black like the factory one.

 

[Jimmy]

Well I'll be damned - just removed the panhard bar and lo and behold - one of the new bushings was completely shot. Must have been damaged when pressed in (I had it done - was before I bought a shop press). Thinking I will just replace the whole thing with a Terrafirma adjustable so I am future proof. This makes perfect sense - as the wobble started right AFTER replacing the bushings!

I'll put the new bar on and update after.

Thanks!

Good job finding it. I'll say that the Terrafirma adjustable is a very snug fit in the mounts, which will help reduce bar movement that can contribute to, or trigger, death wobble.

 

[p m]

Well I'll be damned - just removed the panhard bar and lo and behold - one of the new bushings was completely shot.

Sometimes the most obvious causes are the most elusive.
Maybe I need to remove my Classic's panhard rod to check.

 

[pdogg]

Beware I went with TF adjustable and it came with polybush orange bushings.. within 6 months I had the wobble.. too much play in that bush... replaced with genuine LR and all better..

 

[Gordo]

Poly bushing are junk. I made mistake once using the old Ironman ones. The factory ones are all I use now

 

[Tugela]

Beware I went with TF adjustable and it came with polybush orange bushings.. within 6 months I had the wobble.. too much play in that bush... replaced with genuine LR and all better..

Interesting. On my first RRC I replaced all the original bushings with blue Polybushes. The ride quality improved significantly and the parts held up well over the subsequent year of my ownership. Granted, that's not exactly long term but my data stop when I sold the truck. This seems like an area with the potential for a lot of variability in the results - many factors in play.

 

[Stocksuspension66]

interesting. I just purchased an adjustable terra firma panhard from lucky 8 and its black with red bushings.

 

[Knightspirit]

interesting. I just purchased an adjustable terra firma panhard from lucky 8 and its black with red bushings.

I just ordered mine from Lucky 8 as well - so we'll see what the color is. Picture is silver with orange bushings - I wonder if the red are a different stiffness...

 

[jymmiejamz]

interesting. I just purchased an adjustable terra firma panhard from lucky 8 and its black with red bushings.

I actually just assumed that it had that gold finish like most of their stuff.

I definitely wouldn't want poly bushings.

 

[fishEH]

What about your alignment? A little toe out helps with death wobble.

 

[p m]

The ride quality improved significantly and the parts held up well over the subsequent year of my ownership. Granted, that's not exactly long term but my data stop when I sold the truck.

Nick...

This is just like glowing report of upgrades to 4.6. One year of ownership means something if you put at least 50 kmi on the truck in this year.
OME rear shocks greatly improved handling of my D1.
But one broke off the eye in Death Valley about 1200 miles and 8 months later.
And "people in the know" raised their eyebrows and said - what, you didn't know OME break off their tops?

I have never seen polyurethane bushings last more than one-half of comparable lifetime of rubber components. In case of genuine Land Rover parts, it is about one-fifth at best.

 

[Swedjen2]

I had the blue Polybushinges installed when I first got the RRC in the early 2000's. Rode like new.
Then it sat for years. When I started driving it again, the blue poly at the rear of the front radius arm split.
The other half of all the poybushes had deteriorated to the point I had to replace them all.

 

[fishEH]

Nick...

This is just like glowing report of upgrades to 4.6. One year of ownership means something if you put at least 50 kmi on the truck in this year.
OME rear shocks greatly improved handling of my D1.
But one broke off the eye in Death Valley about 1200 miles and 8 months later.
And "people in the know" raised their eyebrows and said - what, you didn't know OME break off their tops?

I have never seen polyurethane bushings last more than one-half of comparable lifetime of rubber components. In case of genuine Land Rover parts, it is about one-fifth at best.

The problem is finding quality rubber bushings. I had a new set of rubber trailing arm bushings last less than 500 miles(2 days on Wisconsin fireroads).
Can you even find Genuine LR any more??