DII Engine Removal

toothdoc

toothdoc

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Dec 15, 2004
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For those of you who have pulled the engine out of a DII, do you have to remove the exhaust manifold on the DS first? I don't see how I can get the upper bolt on the motor mount bracket out without removing it. I am down to removing the motor mounts to drop the engine and access the upper four bell housing bolts. I sprayed the exhaust manifold bolts with penetrating oil last night and will remove at least the DS manifold today. Just curious if I have missed an easier way to go about it.
 
Nomar

Nomar

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Apr 23, 2004
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Virginia
First off, what's a dentist doing pulling the motor out of a D2 anyway?:D
It's a good thing you're used to working in tight spaces(think #15-distobuccal), because those upper bellhousing bolts are a bear...

I don't recall what we did regarding the manifolds-mine was a SAI truck so everything was in the way.
I would take off whatever you can get to easily to make more room for yourself!


.
 
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Roving Beetle

Roving Beetle

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Nov 11, 2007
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Remove intake manifold and the upper bolts can be accessed with a "custom" bent box end wrench. :)

The almost uppers can be got from below with a LONG extension and jointed socket.

or drop the trans mounts and lower the transfer case/trans end down to get a bit more access (leaving the motor mounts in place but loosen the lower bolts first)
 
toothdoc

toothdoc

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Update:

I was able to remove the motor and have it mounted to a stand in the garage right now. This week and I am planning on removing the heads and sending them to the machine shop. I also have plans to replace the front crank seal, rear main seal, timing chain, oil pump gears, water pump, etc. before replacing the heads and all associated gaskets.

Question: I have been reading through the manual and there are LOTS of LR specific tools mentioned. Are there any specialty tools I can't do without? I am hoping I can remove and reinstall all of these bits using my hand tools, torque wrench, etc. Any other tips on the tear down process would be appreciated.

Thanks again for the help!
 
pjkbrit

pjkbrit

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Apr 23, 2004
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Awesome thread....:)

I would recommend using ARP Studs and nuts for reassembling the heads to the block.....I hate stretch bolts....you cannot reuse them anyway plus they have that nasty habit of coming loose.....

Why are you pulling the motor in the first place?
 
S

sedat

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Mar 4, 2014
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Vegas!
I use random pvc plumbing fittings as seal drivers.

and a shower drain to install rear mains.
 
ptschram

ptschram

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Sep 27, 2004
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In the shop doing the Lord's work one broken Rover
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After more than 100 head jobs on Rovers with ONE come-back, I am astounded and confused over those who are frightened of TTY/prevailing torque bolts.

I've put hundreds of thousands of miles on engines with TTY/Prevailing torque headbolts and rod bolts with no problems.

The front seal is a piece of cake, don't touch the rear unless you are replacing the bearings, once you break the main cap loose, you're gonna be replacing mains anyway.
 
pjkbrit

pjkbrit

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Apr 23, 2004
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I do not like TTY stretch bolts because you read over and over about loosening bolts after so many heat/cool cycles. Yes I suspect that happens more on very high mileage motors or cars subject to lots of short runs, but they also but a very high strain on the block threads that you are torquing against, both the linear pull against the head that you are pulling on AND the twisting force applied to the block threads...whereas the stud/nut method places the pressure on the stud thread with only the linear pulling force being applied to the block threads....which are aluminium of course!!! My preference is to have twisting forces applied to the very excellent hardened ARP Studs, and just the linear pull between head and block applied to those aluminium block threads. Additionally you get a much more accurate torque load applied EVENLY to all the studs....and you can re-use them.

TTY ain't wrong by any means....just not my preference and to me they are an accountant's choice, not an engineers choice...ESP on an all aluminium motor...
 
toothdoc

toothdoc

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Pulled the motor to go through everything possible and hope to get another 100K miles out of it. :) I will be using ARP studs for reassembly(they should be here today actually). Always wanted to pull the motor just for the "fun" of doing it, and now I have a spare vehicle, so out it comes and I can work on it in the garage whenever I want without looks from the neighbors who can't change a tire.

Hoping to get the heads off tonight and start the clean up process.

So, ptschram, you dont recommend replacing the rear main seal while I have the engine out? It was not leaking when I removed it, but thought what the hell, while I am in here I will because if I don't, it will leak as soon as I get it all back together! haha.
 
mike97d1

mike97d1

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Aug 13, 2004
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Wilmington,NC
its a good time to do plug wires (if needed), since the coils are a pain to get to with the intake on, and I would do a t-stat if it hasn't had a new one in a long time.
 
ptschram

ptschram

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Sep 27, 2004
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In the shop doing the Lord's work one broken Rover
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pjkbrit said:
I do not like TTY stretch bolts because you read over and over about loosening bolts after so many heat/cool cycles.
Click to expand...

WTF?

I have heard none of this and in fact have encountered MANY, MANY trucks with high mileage where the worst part of the job is removing the old head bolts because they are tremendously tight.

Engineers were as involved, if not moreso in the change, the change was made to stop head gasket leaks and failures, along with dropping the bottom row of bolts, speaking of which, I hope you guys aren't using studs on 10-bolt heads as they do not provide sufficient clamping force for use with the composite gaskets.
 
Nomar

Nomar

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Apr 23, 2004
6,078
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Virginia
I agree with PT.

A Rover guru here in VA known to Will T but is NOT Will T, told me he has hardly ever seen a rear main seal leak---it's always the crucifixes!!

If it isn't leaking I'd leave it be.


.
 
pjkbrit

pjkbrit

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Apr 23, 2004
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ptschram said:
WTF?

I have heard none of this and in fact have encountered MANY, MANY trucks with high mileage where the worst part of the job is removing the old head bolts because they are tremendously tight.

Engineers were as involved, if not moreso in the change, the change was made to stop head gasket leaks and failures, along with dropping the bottom row of bolts, speaking of which, I hope you guys aren't using studs on 10-bolt heads as they do not provide sufficient clamping force for use with the composite gaskets.
Click to expand...



Don't take my opinion....but many in the classic car world don't like TTY for head bolts...yes...easay to cok up studs...but it's just as easy to under/over torque TTY....do you assemble them with a film of oil...or dry?

http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/2008/05/01/hmn_feature20.html

You also mention the tightness you've encountered....and then we wonder why so many blocks crack up....not just shitty manufacture....but shitty assembly too!
 
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