Discovery 1999 4.0 V8i GS (Petrol, Automatic) Technical Issues

[Mr.Somebody]

Since there are a ton of experts here, I will try my luck and see if I can get any feedback or advice on my situation.

Long story short, I bought this car:



Considering the car only has 110k miles and minimum to no scratches or broken stuff, etc; I figure it was a bargain. The car was overall in good condition, however after driving it around that's when the tech issues started.

The biggest issue was that there was a strong burnt oil smell, and after stopping the car it just wouldn't start anymore. I got stuck in bad places 3 times... so it was time for a garage. So after going to the garage these things were done so far:

• Battery changed
• Oil changed
• Air filter changed
• "Computer" changed (to be honest, no idea what that means in a car; in any case the guys said that was why the car wouldn't start after a while)
• Break pads changed
• Exhaust pipe changed (apparently it had holes in it, that's why it sounded really loud; but even after changing it, it's still loud around 70/90 mph)

In essence the car was really, really abandoned and not maintained... and it's a massive shame. Anyway more things will be changed because I want it as close as possible to top notch condition. Depending on much investment it requires... because investing too much is not really ideal.

Now the issue is, the car still won't start after a while. The interesting thing is this; the car always starts while in P (parking) mode, but after driving it around, it will only start again in N (neutral) mode. Now I don't understand, is this how it's supposed to be? Always start in N or P?

Thanks for reading, please advise.

 

[mearstrae]

Sounds like you might have an "XYZ" switch problem. It's located on the left side of the transmission, at the end of the shifter cable. Like a neutral safety switch. (You're probably thinking, "What the heck is a neutral safety switch?") If it's not properly aligned or there's a problem with the contacts it will cause trouble starting. Some of these have sliding contacts (that can be cleaned) and some have micro switches. Your mechanic probably isn't familiar with Land Rovers, therefore changed the CPU (computer) and hoped for the best. That doesn't look like a '99 D2, unless it's had a 'face lift'.

 

[Mr.Somebody]

Sounds like you might have an "XYZ" switch problem. It's located on the left side of the transmission, at the end of the shifter cable. Like a neutral safety switch. (You're probably thinking, "What the heck is a neutral safety switch?") If it's not properly aligned or there's a problem with the contacts it will cause trouble starting. Some of these have sliding contacts (that can be cleaned) and some have micro switches. Your mechanic probably isn't familiar with Land Rovers, therefore changed the ICU (computer) and hoped for the best. That doesn't look like a '99 D2, unless it's had a 'face lift'.

Thanks, I am still trying to process what you said here. Regarding the picture, that's my exact car.

 

[p m]

Are you talking about a 1999 Disco 1, or a 2003 Disco 2 (because that's what the vehicle in the photo is)?
Because the answers to your questions may be the same or different depending on the model.

 

[jastutte]

facelift means the headlights belong to an '03 or '04 Discovery. '99s did not have that style. may not even have had that style of front bumper. that certainly looks like an '03 Discovery.

are you in the UK or Australia? asking because your steering wheel is on the wrong side. wrong, of course, being a subjective term in this context.

 

[Tugela]

Before you spend more money on resolving your as-yet unknown mechanical issues, how closely have you inspected the body and frame for rust? The vehicle in your photo is gorgeous and appears to be in superb shape from this perspective, however that is no guarantee that the underside looks equally pristine. There's little to be gained from pouring money into repairs if the vehicle isn't structurally sound. The Discovery 2 is not famous for its resistance to corrosion. Hopefully the rust-prone areas look as good as your exterior photo would suggest.

 

[Mr.Somebody]

Are you talking about a 1999 Disco 1, or a 2003 Disco 2 (because that's what the vehicle in the photo is)?
Because the answers to your questions may be the same or different depending on the model.

So my car is definitely 1999 build, that's what it says everywhere. I can also check under the hood, there is some printed details. But it looks just like the picture above, besides the headlights.

facelift means the headlights belong to an '03 or '04 Discovery. '99s did not have that style. may not even have had that style of front bumper. that certainly looks like an '03 Discovery.

are you in the UK or Australia? asking because your steering wheel is on the wrong side. wrong, of course, being a subjective term in this context.

Understood, the headlights are not the same indeed. Here are the original photos when I bought it, it's much cleaner now: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1lVfx5cwJyPsTTtiP6XifvsQK6tP6ZU3R?usp=sharing (please note that I will remove access after 24h because I don't feel comfortable...). And I am in UK.

Before you spend more money on resolving your as-yet unknown mechanical issues, how closely have you inspected the body and frame for rust? The vehicle in your photo is gorgeous and appears to be in superb shape from this perspective, however that is no guarantee that the underside looks equally pristine. There's little to be gained from pouring money into repairs if the vehicle isn't structurally sound. The Discovery 2 is not famous for its resistance to corrosion. Hopefully the rust-prone areas look as good as your exterior photo would suggest.

Excellent point! The garage said to me they inspected the structure, whilst there is corrosion since it's an old car, it's integrity is still strong. Now I have to take their word for it of course... I can see rust myself, but nothing out of the ordinary from my eyes.

 

[p m]

So my car is definitely 1999 build, that's what it says everywhere. I can also check under the hood, there is some printed details. But it looks just like the picture above, besides the headlights.

Thanks, I am still trying to process what you said here. Regarding the picture, that's my exact car.

in a nutshell, I'm a big 4x4 fan so I got myself an old 1999 D1 V8.

So is it your exact car or does it look like the picture above, besides the headlights?

People on Discoweb could be incredibly helpful, but if you mislead them on the model or provenance of the vehicle, it'll be up to you to parse out the unrelated information.

Also, while general privacy concerns are valid, unless your truck is stolen nobody really cares for who you are. Your location is only relevant as the UK models are in many details different from the NAS.

 

[Mr.Somebody]

So is it your exact car or does it look like the picture above, besides the headlights?

People on Discoweb could be incredibly helpful, but if you mislead them on the model or provenance of the vehicle, it'll be up to you to parse out the unrelated information.

Also, while general privacy concerns are valid, unless your truck is stolen nobody really cares for who you are. Your location is only relevant as the UK models are in many details different from the NAS.

Thanks, car is the exact one in the google drive photos. Those are the photos when the ad was up. I just don't like sharing my personal stuff, you cannot trust anyone.

 

[jastutte]

Thanks, car is the exact one in the google drive photos. Those are the photos when the ad was up. I just don't like sharing my personal stuff, you cannot trust anyone.

so, to be clear, the photo in the original post is NOT your Discovery. it is just the same color. photo is an '03. the google drive pictures are the '99 that you currently own. correct?

looking at the pictures on google drive, you have a '99 D2 not a D1. the door handles are the give away on that. well, that and the tail light height. D1's are lower.

pm is right. DiscoWeb is a great resource for information. just need to know exactly what vehicle we are talking about.

 

[Mr.Somebody]

so, to be clear, the photo in the original post is NOT your Discovery. it is just the same color. photo is an '03. the google drive pictures are the '99 that you currently own. correct?

looking at the pictures on google drive, you have a '99 D2 not a D1. the door handles are the give away on that. well, that and the tail light height. D1's are lower.

pm is right. DiscoWeb is a great resource for information. just need to know exactly what vehicle we are talking about.

Indeed, the post photo is just similar and not my car. I might need to edit it. The Google photos are my car, and I'm surprised it's a D2 since I cannot find this anywhere written.

Anyway, I'm quite sad because the more I drive it, the more things I discover... For example, even after the garage changed the exhaust, it's just too damn noisy. Like really noisy... Everyone turns their head. And if you go on the high way, when you reach around 70 mph... You need ear buds. I don't think that's normal.

 

[p m]

For example, even after the garage changed the exhaust, it's just too damn noisy. Like really noisy... Everyone turns their head. And if you go on the high way, when you reach around 70 mph... You need ear buds. I don't think that's normal.

Looks like they cut off the resonator (muffler #2 around the left rear quarter).

 

[Mr.Somebody]

Looks like they cut off the resonator (muffler #2 around the left rear quarter).

Are you serious? This comes with a muffler? Wtf are these guys doing... the car sounds worse now than before.

 

[p m]

There's a large muffler right behind the Y-pipe, and a smaller resonator between the large muffler and tailpipe.
In my early experience, hacking off the resonator results in nasty drone at highway speeds.

 

[kris812]

Just a WILD guess but if your D2 is THAT loud, sounds like someone hollowed out the CATs!

Even with my exhaust disconnected at the Y pipe, it's not extremely loud; maybe ear plug on freeway loud though. My center was swapped to flowmaster, repiped to rear and rear silencer removed. It's hardly loud enough in my book, but has the flowmaster drone at low speeds.

Now what a "shop" did to your Rover WHO KNOWS! This is why I and many others here work on our own trucks. Like I mentioned in another post the P/O had the head gaskets done, and the "Dealership" left old material on the heads and put them back on bent like a Banana.

Yee have little faith in other people's work!! And NO ONE wants to work on a Land Rover, and when they do they want to Frack it up out of jealously or spike from bleeding knuckles as they're used to working on little 'car' trucks, and milk your wallet DRY. Old saying "Once you own a Land Rover, YOU become a mechanic".

NOW back to your original post: you need a new Neutral Safety Switch like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/115828578931 You can try cleaning yours and possibly get it to work correctly again but YMMV.

As for the Exhaust, take it to a Muffler place and have them "fix it" with a different muffler. You don't need the rear and for all the ones I've seen rust out, clog, and blow up the front muffler; it's not worth it to be there. If CAT's are hollowed out; as long as you don't need emissions, SEND IT!

Don't lose hope, these are simple fixes but normally stop owners from driving them from the $$$$ repairs. Welcome to the Rover Crew, get to wrenching and fixing and saving a buck! You will be SO proud once you fix these things yourself though!

 

[Mr.Somebody]

Just a WILD guess but if your D2 is THAT loud, sounds like someone hollowed out the CATs!

Even with my exhaust disconnected at the Y pipe, it's not extremely loud; maybe ear plug on freeway loud though. My center was swapped to flowmaster, repiped to rear and rear silencer removed. It's hardly loud enough in my book, but has the flowmaster drone at low speeds.

Now what a "shop" did to your Rover WHO KNOWS! This is why I and many others here work on our own trucks. Like I mentioned in another post the P/O had the head gaskets done, and the "Dealership" left old material on the heads and put them back on bent like a Banana.

Yee have little faith in other people's work!! And NO ONE wants to work on a Land Rover, and when they do they want to Frack it up out of jealously or spike from bleeding knuckles as they're used to working on little 'car' trucks, and milk your wallet DRY. Old saying "Once you own a Land Rover, YOU become a mechanic".

NOW back to your original post: you need a new Neutral Safety Switch like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/115828578931 You can try cleaning yours and possibly get it to work correctly again but YMMV.

As for the Exhaust, take it to a Muffler place and have them "fix it" with a different muffler. You don't need the rear and for all the ones I've seen rust out, clog, and blow up the front muffler; it's not worth it to be there. If CAT's are hollowed out; as long as you don't need emissions, SEND IT!

Don't lose hope, these are simple fixes but normally stop owners from driving them from the $$$$ repairs. Welcome to the Rover Crew, get to wrenching and fixing and saving a buck! You will be SO proud once you fix these things yourself though!

Thank you for all the information, really appreciated. I'm not quite sure what you mean by CATs, but I am researching. I do understand about the Neutral Safety Switch, which is what will be investigated next.

Regarding the loudness of the car, I'm really not sure what's the deal. When I took it to the garage, this was one of the things I mentioned that I'm not happy with, it's too loud and most friends told me the exhaust pipe is broken.

The guy from the garage then proceeded and changed "half" of the exhaust pipe, and said he will find the "other half" (front) exhaust but it will cost around 1k. Nevertheless, I did not get a chance to see the original "half" exhaust pipe so I'm not sure if there was a muffler or not... but the car now sounds worse then before.

When you first start it... it echoes a loud sound in the are like you would drop an atomic bomb. Then anywhere you drive around... everyone turns their head. I'm not saying this is not "cool", but let's be honest... if you go on a longer trip you are fucked. It's just out of the ordinary really.

 

[mlnnc]

Cats is slang for catalytic converters.

The issue you noted about the truck not starting with the transmission in Park does sound like an XYZ switch problem. XYZ switch is indeed a commonly used term for the neutral safety switch, also called the starter inhibitor switch or the gear position switch.

Before replacing it or removing it to disassemble and clean, I'd first try simply adjusting it. It's mounted on the transmission selector shaft, and is bolted to the transmission with two bolts. The holes through which the mounting bolts pass are elongated, so with the bolts loosened (not removed) the switch can be rotated on the shaft to adjust it.

Among other things, the switch signals the BCU what gear has been selected. The BCU will not allow the starter to be engaged unless the XYZ switch signals the transmission is in Park or Neutral. The BCU also uses signals from the XYZ switch to manage the gear position display in the instrument cluster AND to illuminate the red LEDs on the shifter bezel.

That means you can check the function and adjustment of the XYZ switch by observing the gear position display and the shifter bezel LEDs. The next time the truck fails to start with the shift lever in Park, check the display to confirm whether or no P is indicated, and check the shifter bezel LEDs to confirm the LED next to P is illuminated.

We all recommend you download a copy of the workshop manual, referred to as the RAVE (Rover Automated Viewing Environment). There's a link to the RAVE in my signature below.

 

[p m]

The guy from the garage then proceeded and changed "half" of the exhaust pipe, and said he will find the "other half" (front) exhaust but it will cost around 1k. Nevertheless, I did not get a chance to see the original "half" exhaust pipe so I'm not sure if there was a muffler or not... but the car now sounds worse then before.

When you first start it... it echoes a loud sound in the are like you would drop an atomic bomb. Then anywhere you drive around... everyone turns their head. I'm not saying this is not "cool", but let's be honest... if you go on a longer trip you are fucked. It's just out of the ordinary really.

That, to me, sounds like a stolen catalytic converter.

There are three pieces to the exhaust - Y-pipe that connects to exhaust manifolds and (for your year) should have a catalytic converter on each side prior to joining together, main muffler (silencer), and resonator. From your description, one of the downpipes in the Y-pipe is cut open. The new one in the U.S. is between $400 (cheap aftermarket) and $1k (non-California).

 

[Mr.Somebody]

Cats is slang for catalytic converters.

The issue you noted about the truck not starting with the transmission in Park does sound like an XYZ switch problem. XYZ switch is indeed a commonly used term for the neutral safety switch, also called the starter inhibitor switch or the gear position switch.

Before replacing it or removing it to disassemble and clean, I'd first try simply adjusting it. It's mounted on the transmission selector shaft, and is bolted to the transmission with two bolts. The holes through which the mounting bolts pass are elongated, so with the bolts loosened (not removed) the switch can be rotated on the shaft to adjust it.

Among other things, the switch signals the BCU what gear has been selected. The BCU will not allow the starter to be engaged unless the XYZ switch signals the transmission is in Park or Neutral. The BCU also uses signals from the XYZ switch to manage the gear position display in the instrument cluster AND to illuminate the red LEDs on the shifter bezel.

That means you can check the function and adjustment of the XYZ switch by observing the gear position display and the shifter bezel LEDs. The next time the truck fails to start with the shift lever in Park, check the display to confirm whether or no P is indicated, and check the shifter bezel LEDs to confirm the LED next to P is illuminated.

We all recommend you download a copy of the workshop manual, referred to as the RAVE (Rover Automated Viewing Environment). There's a link to the RAVE in my signature below.

View attachment 64964

Thank you so much for this. I can't believe the garage doesn't know this, when all they repair is trucks... Anyway, I can confirm that P LED never lits up when in Parking mode. So that means it's broken.

That, to me, sounds like a stolen catalytic converter.

There are three pieces to the exhaust - Y-pipe that connects to exhaust manifolds and (for your year) should have a catalytic converter on each side prior to joining together, main muffler (silencer), and resonator. From your description, one of the downpipes in the Y-pipe is cut open. The new one in the U.S. is between $400 (cheap aftermarket) and $1k (non-California).

Thank you as well, much appreciated. Again, why my garage didn't know or do this properly... Anyway, do you happen to have a photo of how the exhaust should look like? An original one? So I can go back to them and rant about this.

 

[p m]

Google is your friend, but any Land Rover parts supplier should do (Rovers North in this case):

This is from Rimmer Bros - based in UK, about 750 quid complete out of stainless steel: