do this now- air intake temps down
- Thread starter 96discoI
- Start date
in hindsight,i see that the hole thru the fender may be a quicker and effective solution than my ram air setup from the lower cowling, but then you get no ram air velocity. also, you still need to find a way to insulate all of it from the engine compartment. it may be a more tedious project changing the air filter but for 80-100 degree operating temps that YOU CAN FEEL IN THE RESPONSE of the vehicle, well worth it. Not quite sure how ambient temps will make an engine overheat, but whatever. Dont do it if you dont believe me. Dont care. Good luck to all who try...by the way-if you have ever breathed 130 degree air you would understand why the engine doesnt like it either. lower temps more hp.
p.s.- the drain holes in the air box will need to be closed with something.silicone or corks or something...
p.s.- the drain holes in the air box will need to be closed with something.silicone or corks or something...
anyone want to sell me a diesel air box for my future water crossings? yes i do understand my low ram air will compromise my river crossings as well as the sahara. good thing i dont do that with kids in the truck anyway...good luck.i will try to do pix but my imagination was all ihad it works well. gonna insulate air box with a welding blanket tonight
Missed that part...
Well I owned 2 p38's and 4 D2's and NO d1's or rrc so.....So you're saying that the D2 is better?
The d2 is just slightly less worse
Just a thought. If the AIT reads incorrectly and the air is colder than what the ecu thinks, and the engine is running lean, wouldn't the O2 sensors catch that? That would cause the short term fuel trim to fatten the mixture provided it doesn't go outside of the short term fuel trim window of adjustment. Now back to my glass of port.
Oooo. A puzzle. Now I am going put my own temp prob in there and see what is really going on. If it's really off that would be cool to fix.
That's about what my Scangauge II is saying these days on mine (mantec snorkel coming into the airbox from the fender).
i do agree the fender would be a much better place from which to draw air, and its already there for a snorkel install later. it would look really nice to have the nostril for the ram air jutting out from the side like a shelby mustang had in the back for cooling the brakes...hmmmm... is there still a mustang oem warehouse in knightstown? My setup is sweet right now but a side mount ram air would be a lot cooler than the air a foot from the pavement and behind someone elses tailpipe....too much thinking not enough doing...later
oh, and to reply to someone who thinks i need to check the sensor that is reading the temp in the air box...
I dont' need to check it because i can feel it in the performance immediately. every time i drive it. and i am watching it live on my obdll reader on my phone. I have been watching it since before the entire intake renovation. it is real...
oh, and to reply to someone who thinks i need to check the sensor that is reading the temp in the air box...
I dont' need to check it because i can feel it in the performance immediately. every time i drive it. and i am watching it live on my obdll reader on my phone. I have been watching it since before the entire intake renovation. it is real...
Has anyone ever tried header wrap to lower the underhood temperature? That should also lower intake temps.
which would in turn cause the actual temp in the air box to rise as well. all be it not as quickly but in the course of a trip it would well worth the effort to insulate from that heat. not a bad idea to make one for the manifold as well just to get the heat reflected back under the rig to get it out. surprised its not a factory supplied and installed part. sucking that hot dirty air in all the time could be the real source of many other rover problems...
not yet but i have always had those heat socks installed around the spark plug wires. that has allowed me to run cheap gas in california. no detonation or knocks after i put in the socks. pricey but it has been worth it. I think wrapping headers may just keep the heat on the header and crack something but a shield would allow it to cool off properly.
holy crap that is high. i would immediately start getting it from the fender and then figure out how to do get the air from the front like i did. i would have tried the fender first but i wanted more force and the front is the better choice for that i think. much different rover after this mod. best one yet. most bang for very little buck. the most expensive part was the 4 inch drill bit.
my mod will get that down to 110 easy. in traffic. under 100 going at least 25 or 30 mph. its that good. cover air box with a folded 4x6 welding blanket and get the air from the front up thru where the cruise pump is. i only get over 100 when it has been idling with ac on.and its a black truck in the sun. good luck
Thanks for the info 96discoI. Can you post some pictures to show how you accomplished this mod? Cheers!
itchin to try this with some water heater insulation i have lying around. question: the insulation i have is fiberglass sandwiched in aluminum shielding. will i be breathing in fiberglass particulates via the vents from trying this?
I had a 2000 P38. The AIT was behind the headlight.
I think they moved it there with the Bosch changeover.
I installed the coils from a 9 cubic foot freezer inside the engine compartment to cool things down.
Mounted the compressor on top of the hood.
I told people it was a supercharger like Mad Max.
Didn't add enough power to compensate for the gigantic inverter I installed to power it.
Then I put a K&N sticker on the back window.
Problem solved.
The vehicle was faster off the line, ran smoother, plus, the gas mileage went up so much, I never bought gas again. And, when chicks saw the K&N sticker, I was fighting them off with a stick.
Changed my life, I tell ya, changed my life.