Doing ball joints.

[eburrows]

Well, I started the process to replace the right-hand steering ball joints on my 2000 D2.

I'm a couple of hours in, and at the stage of "removing" the steering knuckle. (I love how simple the manual makes it sound.)

Current roadblock is pulling/beating/swearing the knucle off the ball joints. I think the upper one is free, but the lower looks possibly corroded, and is being more stubborn. My best idea so far was to use a gear puller against the joint, and to beat on the upper portion of the knucle. No soap.

I'm soaking it in "Blaster" overnight.

 

[KyleT]

Those are not fun.

 

[slangel]

Those are not fun.

Ditto. They aren't. Soaking will hopefully help, lots more curse words and beer.

 

[eburrows]

I know not to apply heat to the axle casing in removing the joints, but how about a little heat to the knuckle?

 

[eburrows]

Got the knucle off! Overnight soaking, gear puller on the bottom, pickle fork on the top, a little heat, and a little beating. Now on to the joints themselves...

Using this kit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0028QGT86/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[bri]

are talking about the tie rod ends?

 

[KyleT]

are talking about the tie rod ends?

The knuckle is held by upper and lower ball joints.

Op, Why are you changing them?

 

[listerdiesel]

We bought one of the kits for removing these joints, but haven't used it in anger yet, we've got a spare front axle that I'd like to change the joints on, but as these are pressed into place they will likely rust pretty securely.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121084586093

Ignore the crazy price, they are $115 or so over here, should be about $90 in the USA?

Remember to mark the axle to show that the joints have been changed, yellow paint circle for each change, maximum 3 changes, but that's a heck of a lot of mileage.

Peter


Peter

 

[bri]

Ever tried banging on where the ball joint pin goes, usually the vibes will knock them loose.

 

[eburrows]

Op, Why are you changing them?

A loud banging sound on right-front load shifts, especially turning at speed and dips/bumps. Tried everything else first. (Tighten everything, replace shocks, wait for it to get worse and more obvious...)



Got the joints out! (Images attached) Had to improvise a "pusher" for the lower joint. Used a socket.

Both joints had problems. The lower joint's boot has been torn for years, and it was very loose. The upper joint could be pushed up into its housing with finger-force.

So far, this is a giant PITA, but I still think replacing the plug wires and coil packs are a worse job!

 

[K-rover]

Keep the pics and write up coming!!! I plan on replacing mine soon.

 

[eburrows]

Op, Why are you changing them?

Also, loose steering, and rut-tracking feel especially on the right side. Could also be steering box, column, etc. But this might help.

 

[eburrows]

Attached are the press attachment configurations I used for pressing in the new joints.

The third picture shows the modifications I had to make to two of the "receiving tubes" in order to conform to the axle shape. The bottom needed one big scallop, the top needed a smaller center scallop, and two notches.

 

[eburrows]

All done! Both went on pretty smoothly. Used lots of grease, and kept the new joints in the freezer for a few hours beforehand.

I was able to use a impact wrench to install the bottom joint, which made the installation smoother, but there was not enough space for the wrench doing the top joint, so that had to go on by hand. Still, I was able to use a 24" wratchet, and did not need to break out my 36" breaker bar.

 

[eburrows]

Got it all together and did a test drive. Steering is much more solid, but that damn noise is still there. Back on the loose-nut hunt...

 

[jymmiejamz]

A loud banging sound on right-front load shifts, especially turning at speed and dips/bumps. Tried everything else first. (Tighten everything, replace shocks, wait for it to get worse and more obvious...)

Are you sure its coming from the front? It could be sway bar end links or the actual bushings that mount the sway bar to the frame. If you are unsure whether its from the front or rear, it could be the watts linkage bearings.

At this point it may be worth taking it to a shop with chassis ears to have it properly diagnosed rather than throwing more parts at it. You could also buy a set of Steelman chassis ears, I think they are only around $100, which is probably about how much you will pay a shop to diagnose it.

 

[KyleT]

Steering box? There is a tsb where you weld something or another and the sound comes from all over.

 

[eburrows]

You could also buy a set of Steelman chassis ears, I think they are only around $100, which is probably about how much you will pay a shop to diagnose it.

Interesting, I hadn't seen those. I'll maybe try that at some point.

Steering box? There is a tsb where you weld something or another and the sound comes from all over.

The steering box needs to be done, it's as old (12yrs, 270k miles) as the rest of the truck, and makes groaning noises when cold, but the box is on the left, and the sound is definitely from the front-right. The front passenger can feel it in their feet.

It sounds like something slipping along the threads of a bolt, like a nut is very loose or fell off. I've checked everything (I think) in the suspension (including the sway arms), as well as the engine and body mounts.

 

[KyleT]

Ok. Fwiw the steering box is adjustable.

Interesting sound.

 

[jafir]

270,000 miles? Could it be a broken engine mount? I'd think you'd be on your 3rd set by now.