Eas help!

nedarb2

Active member
Apr 28, 2018
41
2
canada
I have a new to me lr3 now and am battling air suspension issues.

Symptoms:
-ok driving around in normal mode but compressor seems to run often and for long periods of time. No codes/errors thrown though.

-going up or down is a bit “bumpy” in the front.
-if i go on tough terrain (gravel road, over a curb, etc - anything other than Asphalt basically) compressor runs almost non stop, and there is constant intermittent air being exhausted out (makes a “psss” sound like when you drop the suspension on purpose but it only lasts 1-2 seconds and repeats every 5 seconds or so.)
I get an eas fault, compressor stops running (says standard height only but doesn’t Compressor doesn’t run) and front suspension drops
-front left air shock drops to bumpstop. Front right also drops but not right to the bump stop
-rear end doesnt drop
-restarting car clears faults.

-no leaks found via. Soapy water test and no drop leaving car overnight with battery unhooked
-fault codes thrown:
C1A20 pressure increases too slow when filling reservoir
C1A13 pressure does not decrease when venting gallery

I pulled the f26 fuse today when off road and 5 hours later suspension didn’t drop at all. No air lost. No issues what so ever.

So that means for some reason when the eas is active the front valve block is open letting air out, and the compressor valve block is open to let air through to exhaust. Regardless this confirms the valve
Blocks are not leaking on their own. So why would they be open and exhausting air when active? And only the front?
I’m guessing bad compressor or pressure sensor - so the compressor isn’t charging to a high psi but thinks it is, opening valves to put air in the shocks, but it’s flowing backwards and out. Giving me the long air pressure code, and loosing pressure when it should be rising?
When parked I can go from access to off road without problems other than slow to rise after going up and down twice or so, and the front rises and drops a little bit bumpy / jumpy (not a smooth rise or fall).

I also had a thought that the air exhausting could be the system releasing pressure from the front right spring, to self level the front, because the left front shocks is leaking air and falling. It’s not the shock,its brand new it was replaced for this reason. That means air could be escaping past the front valve block left wheel port?

thank you!!
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,381
204
Northern Illinois
If your sure there is no leak, you need a compressor. The C1A64 code is common. if it was mine I would go with the AMK brand update. We almost never have any trouble with those once the vehicle is updated to it. If you decide to do that I can find you the document that outlines the procedure.

The venting problem is the same, compresssor restricted with a strange white color crap.
 

rangerover

New member
Jan 14, 2019
3
0
NY
I had a similar problem with mine. For me, it turned out that the height position sensor was providing an intermittent signal
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,381
204
Northern Illinois
Hey for what it's worth, don't forget to replace the relay with that compressor. The initial surge in amperage when that compressor starts up burns the contacts. So the rule is to ALWAYS replace relay when replaceing compressor.
 

nedarb2

Active member
Apr 28, 2018
41
2
canada
replaced compressor and relay. still errors!! :mad:
- reservoir fills when inactive
-air pressure to slow to rise

-no leaks as confirmed by lifting vehicle and removing fuse
-now have new front vavle block on order (was rebuilding it but a little spring flew out and i cant find it anywhere so new one it is!)
-rebuilt center/distribution valve block
-suspected stuck/sticking valve when system is active
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,381
204
Northern Illinois
No, You did not confirm no leaks by doing that. You confirmed that there was no leak after the corner valves. You must not have checked for leaks between the compressor, reservoir and corner valves. So you must have a leak.
 
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nedarb2

Active member
Apr 28, 2018
41
2
canada
Alright, thanks. Back under the truck with a squirt bottle tomorrow.
Do you agree turning off the truck and loosening the air line going into the front valve block and checking for leaking air would rule out a leak in the line from center valve block to front valve block.
Then loosening the reservoir line to transfer valve block would rule that as leaking If air is escaping. Then what’s left,,, compressor to reservoir,,, and faulty pressure sensor??
 

nedarb2

Active member
Apr 28, 2018
41
2
canada
And how much air actually needs to be leaking to throw a code? If you can’t hear it leaking and it’s just. Very very slow leak you need soapy water to see is that really enough to throw a code? I can see a cracked line doing it which would be easy to find but something super small at a fitting?? ??
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,381
204
Northern Illinois
There is a line that runs over the top of the reservoir that I've seen leak. Also debri will collect between the reservoir and the frame and cause the reservoir to rust thru. Pay close attention to the lines at the connections at the compressor.
 

nedarb2

Active member
Apr 28, 2018
41
2
canada
Fml. After replacing a ton of parts I’m now down to “ONLY” getting the compressor pressure is rising too slowly.

new compressor installed (amk)
New front left height sensor (threw a code sensor was bad)
New front valve block
New center valve block

have looked and soap sprayed all over the place around compressor and reservoir without finding any leaks. Any one have advice on where to look or how to start solving this. I’m at a loss. It must be there somewhere in front of me but f me I can’t solve this and need a fresh mind on this.
 

nedarb2

Active member
Apr 28, 2018
41
2
canada
How did you program it after you upgraded to the AMK compressor? They always have a vent fault until you reprogram the module.
I didnt program or nor can i verfiy if it is. I do not get the vent fault anymore (after replacing compressor). Vehicle came with an amk compressor so for now i can only assume it was programmed when that was installed. I replaced the amk compressor with a new amk compressor.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,381
204
Northern Illinois
I'm guessing the leak could be in a line that goes over the top of the reservoir. It's covered with a grey protective sleeve.

The leak could be in either line going to the corner valves. The system will have reservoir pressure up to the valve always. Another place to look is near the bottom of the radiator. That line goes from the corner valve at the right side, back to the reservoir
 

nedarb2

Active member
Apr 28, 2018
41
2
canada
I'm guessing the leak could be in a line that goes over the top of the reservoir. It's covered with a grey protective sleeve.

The leak could be in either line going to the corner valves. The system will have reservoir pressure up to the valve always. Another place to look is near the bottom of the radiator. That line goes from the corner valve at the right side, back to the reservoir
thank you. im going to get the truck up a neighbours lift this weekend and will take a good look around.
 

nedarb2

Active member
Apr 28, 2018
41
2
canada
I re calibrated but have not gone for a test drive yet. I did go up and down in the driveway without errors but the air pressure was very slow to rebuild. The car was already at its new height and watching the reservoir rebuild air pressure was quite slow in my opinion, several minutes to go from 150psi to 255psi where it cuts out. It literally builds one number at a time, flickers going to the next number, and so on. I’m going to get underneath this weekend there must be a leak in a line between the compressor and reservoir.
 

nedarb2

Active member
Apr 28, 2018
41
2
canada
Ok, update for ya'll.

1) i am booked into the dealership Wednesday to check software.

2) i watched all the height sensors while driving over un even terrain. no crazy spikes or missed readings, but on extreme angles some sensors went out of range (i think the max reading was 255 or so.... if it went over this it would start counting up from 1 again - but i did NOT get a suspension error, or any others, when this happened)

3) watching the tank pressure, as soon as driving over rough terrain my air pressure plummets from full (255psi/1760kpa) down to the 120-160 (830-1150kpa). So, is it normal/correct for air pressure to drop / be consumed / used big time when on rough / uneven terrain? as mentioned before if i pull the fuse i DONT loose any air when on rough terrain. this must be the source of my problems - for some reason using a ton of air and then the compressor cannot keep up... its drops from 255 to 120-160 in about 5 seconds, and takes 3-5 minutes to rebuild to reservoir.

any ideas on this?

4) removed the compressor intake pipe to see if pressure would rebuild faster - no difference so no intake pipe blockages restricting air intake

5) checked with soapy water for air leaks all between the compressor and reservoir - none found
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,381
204
Northern Illinois
No don't go to the dealer to check sotware. If you had a AMK compressor on that truck it has the new software. If it's wrong it's always a vent fault. Someone put that compressor on for this problem and didn't fix it and sold it out of frustration.

It's picking on a leak, it's happy with all the height sensors or it would be storing a fault. Do this, hook up your scanner thats telling you the pressure in the reservoir. run it till the pressure is high and shut everything off, close the doors so nothing is dinging. Be in a quiet place and listen for the leak.

The reservoir is leaking. Heres the part your not considering and why your having trouble I think. The gallery of air storage is wide open all the way out to the corner valves. So the air line leaving that reservoir valve and going to the corner valves is under the pressure of the reservoir. You stated you had no leak in the air springs, so thats from the corner valve to the springs/ not under presure of the reservoir instead just a chamber closed off from the rest of the system by the corner valve. So we could empty your reservoir and the corner valves will keep air in the spring.

Get someplace quiet so you can hear the air leaking. I have to come in real early in the morning to do this type of check because the white noise of the shop will make it very hard to hear it.
 
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nedarb2

Active member
Apr 28, 2018
41
2
canada
No don't go to the dealer to check sotware. If you had a AMK compressor on that truck it has the new software. If it's wrong it's always a vent fault. Someone put that compressor on for this problem and didn't fix it and sold it out of frustration.

It's picking on a leak, it's happy with all the height sensors or it would be storing a fault. Do this, hook up your scanner thats telling you the pressure in the reservoir. run it till the pressure is high and shut everything off, close the doors so nothing is dinging. Be in a quiet place and listen for the leak.

The reservoir is leaking. Heres the part your not considering and why your having trouble I think. The gallery of air storage is wide open all the way out to the corner valves. So the air line leaving that reservoir valve and going to the corner valves is under the pressure of the reservoir. You stated you had no leak in the air springs, so thats from the corner valve to the springs/ not under presure of the reservoir instead just a chamber closed off from the rest of the system by the corner valve. So we could empty your reservoir and the corner valves will keep air in the spring.

Get someplace quiet so you can hear the air leaking. I have to come in real early in the morning to do this type of check because the white noise of the shop will make it very hard to hear it.
thanks a lot for the reply.
so I was thinking the center valve block closes off the reservoir when not in use... that’s not the case then?
If the lines are pressured from the center distribution valve block the front and back blocks at all time, why Is it that I don’t loose air pressure on smooth surfaces like I do on in even terrain?
 
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