Eas help!

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,403
207
Northern Illinois
Ok here is the list of possible causes from Rovers code description page. Rovers codes have more digits than what your giving me, but C1A20-64 has no other sub class identifiers( #'s after) so it's gotta be the one.
C1A20-64 Pressure increase too slow when filling reservoir.
Compressor fault
Reservoir Pipe air leak
Reservoir air leak
Gallery Pipe air leak
Intake Filter blocked/restricted
intake pipe blocked/restricted
intake silencer blocked/restricted
Corner Valve stuck open
Pressure Sensor fault

I would pay attention to those last 2. I think it's possible you have a wire issue holding open that rear corner valve. Try unplugging it and driving it. It will probably throw some faults but hopefully you can see if that pressure rises when on a bumpy road again.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,403
207
Northern Illinois
Here is what I would do to check for a stuck open corner valve. Raise the vehicle to off road height, with safety glasses on remove the gallery line to the corner valve. If it's stuck open air will leak out and that end of the truck willl drop. You don't have to take the line out of the valve, just turn it till it starts hissing and wait. There should be some air come out because as we saw the gallery line goes back to the compressor head and the front corner valve. But it shouldn't continue to come out for a real long time, and the corners should not drop.
 

nedarb2

Active member
Apr 28, 2018
41
2
canada
Hi Stew, thanks again for your time and input helping me.

Regarding your list of faults:
Compressor fault- brand new could be bad out of the box but I doubt it...
Reservoir Pipe air leak - looked and sprayed extensively. No leaks found.
Reservoir air leak - looked and sprayed extensively. No leaks found.
Gallery Pipe air leak - looked and sprayed extensively. No Leaks found.
Intake Filter blocked/restricted - removed intake line so compressor was pulling from atmosphere. No change.
intake pipe blocked/restricted - same as above.
intake silencer blocked/restricted - same as above.
Corner Valve stuck open - pulled lines from valves of which all are new. Suspension did not sag. Also no leaks when fuse is pulled.
Pressure Sensor fault - brand new with center valve block. Working, and Giving same type of readings as old pressure sensor.
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,403
207
Northern Illinois
Hi Stew, thanks again for your time and input helping me.

Regarding your list of faults:
Compressor fault- brand new could be bad out of the box but I doubt it...
Reservoir Pipe air leak - looked and sprayed extensively. No leaks found.
Reservoir air leak - looked and sprayed extensively. No leaks found.
Gallery Pipe air leak - looked and sprayed extensively. No Leaks found.
Intake Filter blocked/restricted - removed intake line so compressor was pulling from atmosphere. No change.
intake pipe blocked/restricted - same as above.
intake silencer blocked/restricted - same as above.
Corner Valve stuck open - pulled lines from valves of which all are new. Suspension did not sag. Also no leaks when fuse is pulled.
Pressure Sensor fault - brand new with center valve block. Working, and Giving same type of readings as old pressure sensor.
So now with the line loose from the corner valves drive it and see if the front or rear really is getting pushed past a bad corner valve. It should start sinking if it is. I agree the compressor is probably good. there is a connector in the left wheel opening under the wheel house liner. They have a bulletin for what they call an overlay harness to repair erratic air suspension operation. I'll see if I can find that for you. More important I'de like to see if the presure sensor circuit goes thru it.
 

nedarb2

Active member
Apr 28, 2018
41
2
canada
Sorry for the shaky video. But here are videos of me crawling over a bump in my lawn and monitoring the air pressure.
***i DID remove the lift rods this morning. This is stock standard height in normal mode. ***

  • 0-15 seconds compressor is running to charge reservoir to 255psi. it then exhausts out the head pressure down to 23~psi.
  • 33 second mark - i drive over the 3" CURB going off the driveway, onto the grass.
  • 34-42 seconds i crawl over the curb, and then the front of the truck goes down a little dip
  • 42-0:55 approx, i begin to climb up sidehill, and drive along the side hill (grass bump i show earlier in the video).
  • :55-1:08 approx i come off the sidehill, and ground starts to level off
  • 1:08-end - im back on flat ground sitting still. you can see reservoir pressure over the 40ft drive has dropped from 255 to 220 approx, and its building up again. pressure then drops down to 30-100 range several times, when car is levelling itsself, exhausting air out, when its done the compressor starts running again to keep building reservoir pressure. again this whole time im sitting still, the car is just doing its thing im not driving anywhere.
  • another video of me driving the same route, you can see pressures jumping all over as suspension articulates, exhausts out, compressor runs to rebuild, etc.


-when i repeated the drive several times with the fuse pulled there was absolutely ZERO change in pressure. it held 21psi aka valves are all working, sealing, and there are no leaks. This reconfirms to me the valves are working **as they are told to** (i think they are being told to do things when they shouldn't be) - and there are no system leaks. When powered/active, the EAS is acting up and consuming air as you can see in the video. Im yet to hear from anyone or find anywhere online an explanation of when air should be consumed/exhausted, other than lifting and raising the vehicle to different heights. to my knowledge, once at a new ride height the front and rear ends a should be isolated. This isnt happening, air is being leaked out and pumped back in as evident from the rapidly changing pressures in the video,and this is only a 40ft long drive on grass in my lawn. Again, this doesn't happen when the fuse is pulled meaning electronics are making this happen, and all i can assume is its doing this incorrectly... so my new theory/suspected issues are:
1) compressor / eas software (will know this when my gap tool arrives - on order)
2) faulty height sensor(s) - but no error codes or crazy sensor readings as of now monitored with 4dcan. I will be able to monitor voltages when gap tool arrives to confirm they are working & reading within their limits.
3) eas hardware/computer is defective or faulty all together
4) broken wire(s) causing valves to open/close when not being told to -i will be able to monitor front and rear valves with gap tool, to see if they are being told to open or close. if air is being lost when they are showing closed, i can assume the valve blocks are receiving an electrical charge causing them to open that's NOT coming from the computer - because when they are closed aka. fuse is pulled they work. if front or back can be isolated to cause the problems i can start tracking down why. if its front AND back i suspect hardware or software will be the reason.
Does this seem logical? again, this is based on my understanding of the eas system and when it should be exhausting or pressurizing air from the front and rear ends - of which i have not read anything official about...
 

nedarb2

Active member
Apr 28, 2018
41
2
canada
Quick update. Went and parked on side hill. As I thought, truck does NOT want the suspension to articulate. It wants all wheels to be level. High ones are lowered and lowered ones are raised. Hence constant use of air. Does anyone know what tells the vehicle to do this? Suspension should be articulated on uneven surfaces, it shouldn’t be trying it make all wheels level on the 4x4 screen all the time....
 

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
5,403
207
Northern Illinois
Hey, look at the gallery line to the rear corner valve. I always have to push it out of the way to make sure it doesn't get trapped under the compressor bracket.