Engine rebuild fail!
- Thread starter discowolf
- Start date
I used my computer compressed air can and a WD40 straw, worked great, just cover it up with a rag.
Last edited:
Everybody and everything says 15ft-lb, 90deg, 90 deg.
a guy commenting in this thread (Chongo*)
http://www.landroverworld.org/forums/showthread.php?t=18442
has some input on that. He says that after everything was done to spec, the longer bolt had +\- 20 ft-lb less torque than the shorter head bolts which were approx 75 ft-lb of torque. Applying an extra 90 deg to those longer head bolts got them to the equivalent +/- 75 ft-lb of the short bolts. I'm just now researching this for my first attempt at HG repair but like to make info available for the more experienced to comment on, debunk, degrade, what have you. I would like to know what others think about this, Espc the Teflon-tape bit.
ptschram
Well-known member
Don't fucking deviate from the process.
It works.
Many of us have done hundreds of head jobs and in my case, I have had exactly ONE come-back!
As for Chongo-don't follow his instructions.
I have headsets in stock, ready to ship.
PT@PTSCHRAM.COM
260-804-0458-text is best
ptschram.com
I will certainly take your advice. But can you add to this:
"The Process," you are referring to the RAVE workshop guide?
RAVE emphasizes tapping the SAI adapter threads for removal of deposits but why not tap the head bolt threads? There was a long thread about that on LRO forums that you commented on. This would be deviating from the workshop manual, so there must be a better process that you know of. Would you be so kind as to lay it out so that I can bookmark it? Thanks a million.
So this guy on the other board said to wrap the threads in teflon tape? OH MAN. Listen to PT here and DONT put anything on those threads but a little engine oil. Just a little. Don't have so much oil on them that they drip. I personally don't run a tap thru the threads before I assemble it but it sure wouldn't hurt to do that.
ptschram
Well-known member
The FSM can't cover ever technique that a qualified technician might employ.
W/R/T tapping, please use a rethread tap and not a thread-cutting tap. A thread-cutting tap CUTS material whereas a rethread tap gently pushes the material back where it belongs without changing the thread fit. Continuously running a tap through a previously tapped hole will enlarge the hole and negatively impact the thread fit quality.
The head bolt tightening technique was devised by guys whose job was to develop a method that could be employed by minimally qualified assemblers well enough for the engine to last through the warranty period. Their primary goals were ease of assembly and longevity.
As for studs, I'm afraid there are an awful lot of folks who do not install them correctly, don't torwue them correctly, don't retorque correctly, don't retorque periodically, and are using them in an application where they are poorly suited. I ONLY use them on supercharged or other high-performance Rover engines (yes, there are such animals!).
While I don't allow myself to be under pressure to finish jobs under a particular timeframe, there have been an awful lot of headjobs done on these trucks using some techniques I don't suggest, under flat-rate conditions and those trucks run for a damn long time!
I love these silly engines and I really do think they're pretty damn elegant and capable of producing tremendous amounts of power for long periods of time. I will admit it does cost more to make a LOT of power with the RV8, but when you're finished, they're fantastic and some are even Schramtastic!
W/R/T tapping, please use a rethread tap and not a thread-cutting tap. A thread-cutting tap CUTS material whereas a rethread tap gently pushes the material back where it belongs without changing the thread fit. Continuously running a tap through a previously tapped hole will enlarge the hole and negatively impact the thread fit quality.
The head bolt tightening technique was devised by guys whose job was to develop a method that could be employed by minimally qualified assemblers well enough for the engine to last through the warranty period. Their primary goals were ease of assembly and longevity.
As for studs, I'm afraid there are an awful lot of folks who do not install them correctly, don't torwue them correctly, don't retorque correctly, don't retorque periodically, and are using them in an application where they are poorly suited. I ONLY use them on supercharged or other high-performance Rover engines (yes, there are such animals!).
While I don't allow myself to be under pressure to finish jobs under a particular timeframe, there have been an awful lot of headjobs done on these trucks using some techniques I don't suggest, under flat-rate conditions and those trucks run for a damn long time!
I love these silly engines and I really do think they're pretty damn elegant and capable of producing tremendous amounts of power for long periods of time. I will admit it does cost more to make a LOT of power with the RV8, but when you're finished, they're fantastic and some are even Schramtastic!
ptschram
Well-known member
I think the FSM says a light coating of engine oil. I typically use a few drops.
As to the tapping, if the bolts came out smoothly, one probably won't need anything more than lightly oiled new bolts.
The $180 for the head machining seems kinda suspicious. When I started doing Rover heads, my first machine shop (that I'm not fond of) quoted me $250/head. The guy I used for years started at $250/pair and now is up to about $350/pair-but he's really wanting me to buy his machine shop-LOL. But, he's only been trying to sell it to me for about the last 20-30 years!
My new machine shop in the middle of nowhere is $225/pair.
I used to pay $175, but that eventually went up to ~$250. The most I've paid is $450 and those looked brand new when done.
once again, the know-it-alls have objections to the cyl head gasket repair. PT, please check your PMs
It means I don't know how to do your job but some other guy tells me your doing it all wrong.
and of course... I'm a dumbass and I'm from Texas.
ptschram
Well-known member
No, but I think it would be a great place to live if you could get all the Texans out of there.