Im running a 4in spring lift and 1 in body lift with a set of Roccia flares, 37 in pit bull rockers more like a 36. If you have any questions fell free to call
Everyone With 35"+ Tyres
- Thread starter RoverRideAlong
- Start date
I'm with Nadim on this one. I run a retained RTE 3" lift with 33" tires on the disco. I'll be starting my project chop top disco soon and plan on putting 34"-35 tires on it. I plan on doing a 2-3" OME lift and keeping everything as close to stock as I can geometry wise. Since I'm cutting anyway I plan on just trimming to fit the larger tires rather than lifting to fit. The money saved will go into axles were it belongs.
2.5 spring
1.5 spacer
no sway bars
lower shock mounts in the back/ extensions in the front(custom)
new bushings(the truck needs to be more solid with angle change)
U-joint in the rear(no rubber bullshit) and spare u-joint in the cab(until the double cardigan change)
most importantly bump stops and a sawzall
1.5 spacer
no sway bars
lower shock mounts in the back/ extensions in the front(custom)
new bushings(the truck needs to be more solid with angle change)
U-joint in the rear(no rubber bullshit) and spare u-joint in the cab(until the double cardigan change)
most importantly bump stops and a sawzall
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D Chapman
Guest
Andrew Homan said:
FWIW, when I removed my rear cargo door and both rear doors, I gained almost 2" more lift. With the top gone aswell, I bet a 2" would be just fine for 35's.
since we are on this topic:
I have a 2" rte sprong lift, and a 2" body lift.
I am running 285/75/16's, and recently I installed the ECR flares, now I have tons of space and I am sure that I could fit 35's. I have 16" procomp wheels, so 315's seem to be more of a reality. I am running GBR 4.11's as well. Do you think that this rig could handle 35's, or are ther other things I should think about in advance. Thanks.
I have a 2" rte sprong lift, and a 2" body lift.
I am running 285/75/16's, and recently I installed the ECR flares, now I have tons of space and I am sure that I could fit 35's. I have 16" procomp wheels, so 315's seem to be more of a reality. I am running GBR 4.11's as well. Do you think that this rig could handle 35's, or are ther other things I should think about in advance. Thanks.
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DiscoDino
Guest
Good thread...good thoughts...
Stock geometery is key for a daily driver, and prefer to keep things as close to that as possible and Andrew said it...
2-3" OME (off the shelf, readily available from several places, may even be considered mass produced!)...have nothing against RTE, but for "wear and tear" items, I'd like to stick to off the shelf.
Again, for 35s, 3"OME + flares (rubber) and you are good to go...for 37s/38s, put a body lift in there...simple...do take into consideration the body lift before doing the bumpers though...
if you do the math, both $ and items to change, the closer you remain to stock geometery, the cheaper, easier, and simpler
Stock geometery is key for a daily driver, and prefer to keep things as close to that as possible and Andrew said it...
2-3" OME (off the shelf, readily available from several places, may even be considered mass produced!)...have nothing against RTE, but for "wear and tear" items, I'd like to stick to off the shelf.
Again, for 35s, 3"OME + flares (rubber) and you are good to go...for 37s/38s, put a body lift in there...simple...do take into consideration the body lift before doing the bumpers though...
if you do the math, both $ and items to change, the closer you remain to stock geometery, the cheaper, easier, and simpler
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DiscoDino
Guest
For tires, I'd seriously suggest the H1 wheels, recentered for Rover pattern, 3.5" BS, with 36x13.5x16.5 IROK tires...DOT approved wheels (they have the stamp, so an officer "should" let ya go), siped/directional/light large-ish tires...
(In Lebanon, the law, or rather the lack thereof, allows us to run weld on beadlocks...)
(In Lebanon, the law, or rather the lack thereof, allows us to run weld on beadlocks...)
Alright so I have decided to get the RTE 3" lift kit with Bilstein 7100s and the rubber flares from innovation 4x4. I am still undecided with the wheels and tyres.
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DiscoDino
Guest
When I cut my truck up...the "easiest" weight losses where in the rear doors and the cargo door...they are h e a v y!! Weight up front is hard to lose...but best "relocated"...I had two Optimas in the "stock" locations, had them re-installed behind the seats (central situation), so that's how I re-allocated the weight so that the "extremities" of the truck weigh less...
As for tires...I'm very pleased with the Interco Iroks in the 36" flavors...I keep saying this as they do everything right except for mileage...street manners are what an offroad tire would provide you with, but they are siped...wheel choices are plentiful...if you go beadlocks & biased tires, then having an industrial tube and patches will allow you to ditch the spare tire (some don't like that), so you end up losing another 100-120lbs off the back
As for tires...I'm very pleased with the Interco Iroks in the 36" flavors...I keep saying this as they do everything right except for mileage...street manners are what an offroad tire would provide you with, but they are siped...wheel choices are plentiful...if you go beadlocks & biased tires, then having an industrial tube and patches will allow you to ditch the spare tire (some don't like that), so you end up losing another 100-120lbs off the back
well remember it's not just about getting the lift.
you need to arms to correct pinion, DC shaft on the front, caster correct swivel balls and not to mention gearing to offset the bigger rubber and HD axles shafts all around.
I fit 35's as a DD for a while with all of the above and it was pretty descent. RTE 3" HD w/ 7100s.
you need to arms to correct pinion, DC shaft on the front, caster correct swivel balls and not to mention gearing to offset the bigger rubber and HD axles shafts all around.
I fit 35's as a DD for a while with all of the above and it was pretty descent. RTE 3" HD w/ 7100s.
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DiscoDino
Guest
With a 2-3" lift, and using a Toy hi pinion front, the front DC is safe...on the back...it is essential to get new links (the stock ones can bend in seconds) and the A-Arm extension from RTE and you are set...stock DC...
justinhaaga said:
DiscoDino said:
Don't worry, I am first doing the toy conversion in the front and rear with either an e-locker in the front and a lock rite in the rear or dual e-lockers with Yukon 4.88s. I plan on new links, caster correct swivel balls, arms, A-Arm extension, everything. I am actually debating on JJ links or not.
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DiscoDino
Guest
this is a good thread. im actually debeting going 35-36s in the spring.
i have a question though....ive talked to Keith about this one too
Hi Pinion reverse cut Front diff.........weak in reverse? any of you guys with them have any problems?
im considering going toy in the rear and RT HD shafts in the front....what do you think
i have a question though....ive talked to Keith about this one too
Hi Pinion reverse cut Front diff.........weak in reverse? any of you guys with them have any problems?
im considering going toy in the rear and RT HD shafts in the front....what do you think
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Keith's response
super guy, and super smart. but im still not sure if i want to stay green or go toy in the front
super guy, and super smart. but im still not sure if i want to stay green or go toy in the front
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DiscoDino
Guest
hi pinion is weak in reverse...that is what makes it strong going forward...that said, on 36s and with an Auto specially (as most fitted in the recent NAS Rovers), you should be VERY safe...specially if you go in 4.1s, 4.3s (from Australia as far as I know), or 4.56s...I've shredded a 4.88 rear pinion, but that was set up in June 2004 (4 years ago now 
) and I set it up (with all the correct equipment) but I was/am a novice at setting up and went with a crush sleeve vs. the better solid one...also, the shredded pinion lived on 36s for 16 months, and 42s since then...
Bottom line, on 36s, going in reverse, you should not have an issue unless you are INTENDING to break it, in that case, you will break that or something else...(CV? Axle? UJ?...)
) and I set it up (with all the correct equipment) but I was/am a novice at setting up and went with a crush sleeve vs. the better solid one...also, the shredded pinion lived on 36s for 16 months, and 42s since then...Bottom line, on 36s, going in reverse, you should not have an issue unless you are INTENDING to break it, in that case, you will break that or something else...(CV? Axle? UJ?...)
thats what i wanted to hear. i plan on a strong gear ratio like 4.10. i don't plan to go lower than that. my close friend has portals under his FJ-80 and i can get his fj-80 front 3rd or he also has a spare set of volvo portals hed give me for 3k
