Everyone With 35"+ Tyres

[DiscoDino]

I'm partial to portals...as they tend to raise your COG and are used items without brand new parts off the shelf at a decent price. Things will eventually break, and replacements are needed...that's the reality of things...the Rovota diff conversion is well supported these days that it has become a safe bet...between the abundant Toyota items and the "custom" off the shelf Rover specific items...

FWIW, I'm going for Rockwells on the Disco this summer or the next instead of portals based on availablility of brand new upgraded axles, initial cost, disc brake upgrade cost, and other factors that have swayed my decision that way...

 

[wdmcdonald]

I'm partial to portals...as they tend to raise your COG and are used items without brand new parts off the shelf at a decent price. Things will eventually break, and replacements are needed...that's the reality of things...the Rovota diff conversion is well supported these days that it has become a safe bet...between the abundant Toyota items and the "custom" off the shelf Rover specific items...

FWIW, I'm going for Rockwells on the Disco this summer or the next instead of portals based on availablility of brand new upgraded axles, initial cost, disc brake upgrade cost, and other factors that have swayed my decision that way...

would rockwells cost less?

 

[wdmcdonald]

also i've never tallied up the total cost of a toy conversion but it seems like if you got a decent deal on portals and you had the fab skills to swap it yourself it would be cheaper.

correct me if im wrong please. im torn between the two options.

 

[DiscoDino]

The math i am doing seems that RWs cost less than U1300 or 416 mog portals for my application...now whether RWs cost less than the Rovota conversion, I didn't think of it in that way as they aren't the same needs/application design...

RW - uber heavy, custom suspension needed, 4 wheel steer heaven, crap OEM drum brakes...+42" tires, +110" wheelbase

Rovota - OEM housing, suspension design, brakes and simply drop in / boring of LR housing...-42" tires...36-37 max on a heavy-ish Rover...100" wheelbase nice on that tire

That's my take...

 

[DiscoDino]

For the total on the Rovota, check here: http://rovertracks.com/tech/toyotacomparison.html

Its ultimately what you need...if you want to retain quasi stock everything, then Rovota is the answer, if you want to go completely offroad/custom, the sky is the limit...

 

[wdmcdonald]

plus new hubs/spindles bout 5 grand. not too bad.

 

[DiscoDino]

plus new hubs/spindles bout 5 grand. not too bad.

Yeah, you should be running close to 5 grand...if you intend to run 42" tires, RWs (in their OEM internal form albeit with Detroits) would seem financially feasible assuming that you do need to change the wheels/tires in either case (Rovota or RW)...

If you have a 2dr RRC, chopping up and clearing 42s isn't hard

 

[wdmcdonald]

its a 4 door... soon to be a 2 door though hahaha.
my god... i need to stop before i spend every cent i'll ever earn on this thing.
its like a drug addiction i swear

 

[DiscoDino]

Tell me about it!!!

 

[wdmcdonald]

hey so whats this about the H1 wheels? the fit the rover pattern or what? seems like a worthwhile investment.

see there i go again...

 

[DiscoDino]

No they don't from the OEM...but they are DOT stamped (not sure on "approved"), readily available, are of a double beadlock design, and customs weld-in centers to match any pattern, even Rovers', are available...

So you get a 2ble beadlocked - custom backspacing - affordable-ish - DOTed wheel...just a thought for those who want to run beadlocks on the street in the US and have less issues with the DOT laws...

 

[Discojunky]

I only have 34's but I could fit 35's I'm sure. I trimmed a lot and don't having any rubbing even on hard trails. I have the RTE 3" springs and 1" spacers in the rear and a 5/8" up front to get the look I wanted. I don't "think" I'll go any larger with the Rover stuff though even with HD axles and all.

 

[DiscoDino]

I only have 34's but I could fit 35's I'm sure. I trimmed a lot and don't having any rubbing even on hard trails. I have the RTE 3" springs and 1" spacers in the rear and a 5/8" up front to get the look I wanted. I don't "think" I'll go any larger with the Rover stuff though even with HD axles and all.

What width tire? What backspacing on the wheel? You could stuff 35x10.5" with 3" lift and cutting, but then you wouldn't be gaining any width with a shallower B.S., or run a wider wheel (when needed)

 

[justinhaaga]

fj80 front high pinion is a strong setup especially with 30 spline longs. I'm not a big believer in the reverse cut theory. Technically it's stronger but I don't think that is going to make the difference. It's the bigger Ring gear that makes the biggest strength increase with proper gear contact.

You'll break axles or ujoints before the R&P, unless you unload it like the one Keith is talking about, and even in those cases you can blow d60 R&Ps.

 

[MUSKYMAN]

No they don't from the OEM...but they are DOT stamped (not sure on "approved"), readily available, are of a double beadlock design, and customs weld-in centers to match any pattern, even Rovers', are available...

So you get a 2ble beadlocked - custom backspacing - affordable-ish - DOTed wheel...just a thought for those who want to run beadlocks on the street in the US and have less issues with the DOT laws...

who's doing the rover centers?

why would they need to be welded in?...hummer rims bolt togather.

hummer rims are only a double bead lock if you have the center locking ring in them...most places that sell the rims charge alot extra for the center locking ring. The magnesium ones are the good ones put there are also poly ones out there.

the real issue is then your on 16.5 tires and back into less choice for tire sizes and smaller sidewalls for smaller sizes and thats less traction.

 

[DiscoDino]

It's the bigger Ring gear that makes the biggest strength increase with proper gear contact.

Aren't the Toy 8" Ring diameter and the Rover 8.5"? AFAIK, the Hypoid design is the main reason the Toys are stronger...but size wise, they are smaller...(Kind of like the 9" vs the D60 argument and the 14B vs. the D70)

 

[DiscoDino]

who's doing the rover centers?

why would they need to be welded in?...hummer rims bolt togather.

hummer rims are only a double bead lock if you have the center locking ring in them...most places that sell the rims charge alot extra for the center locking ring. The magnesium ones are the good ones put there are also poly ones out there.

the real issue is then your on 16.5 tires and back into less choice for tire sizes and smaller sidewalls for smaller sizes and thats less traction.

Copperfab.com for one, and I am sure many other fab shops that are creating H1 centers...the centers need to replace the old 8 lug centers...and yes, they need to be welded in...that's different from the 2 shell bolt in design that bolt together via 8 or 12 bolts...

16.5" tire choices do somewhat get limited, however Interco and even BFG have a lot of choices out there amongst others...(for a DD, I maintain the Iroks as the premier choice...)

 

[MUSKYMAN]

I guess I am not following?

if the centers get welded in how do they work?...and what makes them a hummer rim?

the one thing that makes a hummer rim cool and worth while is the fact it can be broken down on the trail.

what actually gets welded?

 

[DiscoDino]

The center taht mounts to the flange of an axle with the 8 lugs...

This comes as an 8 lug US-hub fit, that you need to plasma out and weld in custom centers (~50$ each) with the Rover hub pattern (5 bolts, 6.5"?).

Check this thread, it depicts exactly what components in the rim need to be welded:

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=430955

 

[MUSKYMAN]

ok...I see says the blind man

those are sweet