Zak Pandino said:
Sorry let me clarify,
You interpreted my mess of troubles quite well, after that soder job I had ALL windows working (prior to only the FR passenger). Then none after moving it. It may have been possible between the two soder jobs that I didnt have the plugs all the way in, but that doesnt explain why after both the fuses and soder jobs NOW I have 3 instead 4 windows discluding the driver, unless there is a single bad soder somewhere or something wrong on the ECU that is not visible. I'm wondering if the front windows are not linked somehow on the ECU like the rears are. . this would explain why only one of the fronts is working unless its something outside the ECU all together.
Yes SATELLITE 2 fuse #2 and # 15 were blown. But I believe that the 30 amp blown fuse was my fault, while unplugging the ecu plugs (w/ metal pliers) I believe I must've shorted it out. However the blown # 15 fuse I dont know about, I replaced it and that brought the rear windows back. So I now have 3/4 windows working, only nonfunctional window being the driver window, it DOES however make the clicking sound in the ECU, so at least I now have pwr flowing through. So I'm getting power to the ECU but not to the door itself, what else is there between there Im wondering. .? I really dont think theres a short because if that was the case -every time I would attempt this there would be a blown fuse, but this has only happened once,(aside from my tinkering and blowing the 30 amp w/ the metal pliers). Yes I did buy the truck this way from a friend, he always used the a/c or just the front windows, but after my driver went out I HAD to do something 1 window is not gonna cut it. . Someone mentioned the window regulator. .?, doubtful but worth throwin it out there at this point.
Thanks,
Zak
(931) 267-3768
If it's a window regulator, that means the power window motor itself
There is a quick & dirty way to check that without having to remove the door panels, simply by tapping power from the front console switches. You want to swap the wires from the front right (which you know is working) and feed the front left window regulator with it. When the wires are swapped, pressing the right window button should make the left (driver's) window work IF your motor is good. If that's the case, you can leave the swap as-is until you figure out what you want to do, so at least you'll have your driver's window working.
As for the fuse issue... Well, there is a chance that you fried something when you blew the fuse with your pliers, but if you say the ECU is still clicking, then maybe you are OK. This 30A fuse is for the rear windows, so if they are still working then maybe you are good. The issue with the 10A "air conditioning/window" fuse is a little mysterious. From what I understand, the #15 10A fuse affects ALL windows, so there's no good reason why only the rears would come back to life when you replaced this fuse, unless it was before you re-soldered the ECU. As for the front windows and the ECU, if they are linked together on the ECU, then they should (?) both NOT work if it's an ECU problem. I've never had electrical problems with my windows so I haven't pulled the ECU to have a close look at it, therefore I don't really have the in-depth knowledge and experience to be of much more help, and I'd have to spend some time looking at the wiring schematics to get a basic idea of what is going on. (As of this evening, I am now pretty much of an expert on the door lock actuators... but that's not much help to you though...)
As for your question relating to what might be hiding between the ECU and the regulators in the doors... there are some pretty detailed wiring schematics on the RAVE CD. Try looking that up and you should be able to identify if there's a mystery component in there that could be the cause of the problem.
I would do the switch swapping test for a quick answer about the regulator first. Double check that all your window fuses are good first and try that. If no joy, then pop out the ECU and have a good look at all the solder spots and circuit traces to see if they are intact and that your soldering didn't melt any other spots which could be the problem. I've found that since the circuit boards used by LR are relatively low production runs, they are simple enough to troubleshoot visually by following the traces on the board from the connector point through the circuit board. With a magnifying glass you should be able to tell if there are any obvious bad solder spots or other visible damage such as scratches, cracks and corrosion. Keep an eye open for any resistors that might have been overloaded too. These will either be discolored (burned) or actually cracked or split. Even a simple component like a resistor can be replaced cheaply and easily if you know how to solder
Keep us posted
Kev
PS: Since that #15 10A "air conditioning/windows" fuse was blown for no apparent reason, have you tried running the AC to check of it might be what is blowing the fuse ? Also, the fuse list is not clear on this, but it's possible that the sunroofs are also linked to this #15 fuse, so maybe give them a check too to see if that might be what caused your fuse to blow.