Fuel psi 5-10 ignition, 40 cranking, ok?

[DeanBrown3D]

Trying to start a 94 D1 with a block from a RR. Its trying to start, but its not firing properly. New plugs, new-looking wires and dissy cap.

Fuel pressure is 5-10 when I turn the ignition on, I hear the pump for 2 secs, and then it stops. If I repeat this the pressure reading goes up about 2 psi each time up to around 10 psi. If I crank it, the pressure stays around 40 psi. Is this normall behavior?

If I take off a plug lead and hold it to a new grounded plug, I get a faint yellow spark in the gap. Should this be a bright brue spark?

Thanks,

Dean

 

[nosivad_bor]

dean, it needs every bit of the pressure.

I dont think it should spike the pressure when you cran either, spark is iffy. try starter fluid in the intake. also if you have the rover manual, it has an pretty decent test of a no start situation.

I'd also think about the coil

 

[Str0ud]

Dean, Could this have something to do with that crank pulley?

 

[Str0ud]

Faint yellow spark not right.

 

[DeanBrown3D]

Thanks guys. Here's the deal: I got this D1 with a blown rod, took the engine out and put in one from a range rover, not sure what year. Heads an block and timing gear all good according to the seller. Used the oiriginal D1 front engine cover. Crank woodruff key was not long enough to slot into the pulley so timing is only by ear now, as the timing marks are on the pulley itself. No big deal.

Ok it was starting with effort, and misfiring on one or two cylinders. So I changed the plugs (a little black, and gap was way too large) and cleaned engine temp plugs. Now no start at all. I'm gonna try to twist the dissy now and see if I changed the timing with the new plugs and gap. Just wanted to know if the low fuel pressure before cranking starts is ok?

Dean

 

[Robbie]

yeah, pressure should still be up in mid 30's with ignition on. should not fluctuate too wildly.

also, with faint orange spark, change out the rotor on the distributor.

 

[DeanBrown3D]

ok adjusting the timing didn't help. Still no firing. It splutters, and then appears to flood until I turn it off for a few seconds.

Coil gives me at least 6-8mm spark, which is more than the manual says.

Ps I dunno if it means anything yet, but the diagnostic code says 45, something about an oxygen sensor. Does anyone know if that can change the mixture so significantly that it would flood and not start?

 

[JeffreyDV]

O2 sensors should not have any effect on cold start. They will not come into play until they are warmed up. Sounds like you may need a new fuel filter or pump. That spark should also be nice and blue. My wife's Disco used to flood real bad until I changed plugs, cap, and rotor. Now it starts up no problem.

 

[Peterb]

Jeff, Dean did not mention, That when we got the engine installed, and got it to run, It would idal at 2k, no lower, except when in gear. 1k rpm, I was thinking that the engine thinks that it is cold all the time, even when warm, still delivering the amt of fuel that it would at 50'f, does this sound right to you?
And do you still have that rrc sitting about?
Peter.

 

[JeffreyDV]

What Peter says sounds feasable. Do you know if the Discos have cold start injectors? If it does you can try disconnecting it to cut down on the fuel supply. You can also see if it will start with the fuel pump disconnected.

I sold the other Rangie a few months ago.

Jeff

 

[DeanBrown3D]

How can it start with the fuel pump disconnected?

 

[JeffreyDV]

If it is flooding it will start on the fuel that is flooding the engine. It should even run for a few seconds until it runs out of gas. I did this many times with the wife's truck to clear the flood.