Grease seals, bearings

[Brockflock]

Hello to the more knowledgeable LR guys, I have a couple of questions:

1999 D1. 100,000 mi. on it

1.) I am about to redo my wheel bearings. My manual tells me to tighten the hub nuts to a specific torque. I only have a large set of channel locks that I can get them with, sooo.... where do I get a socket that is the right size (which I believe is 2 1/16 in.)?

2.) Are there any good aftermarket inner grease seals for the hubs? I read the thread from PT about the ones he got from a client so I am concerned about quality. Any recommendations would be appreciated.

3.) Same for the bearings. Are there brands to recommend?

I am trying to stay away from junk.

If there is a thread with the info, I haven't seen it yet, so those would also be appreciated as well.

Thanks in advance.

 

[ptschram]

Hey Bill!

Shalom!

The best seal to use is the RTC-3511. It is double lipped and has a ridge so it can only be inserted one way and only the correct distance. I have not seen a poor copy of this part number. Cortico is probably the best afterwarket seal brand I've seen.

W/R/T the bearings, I've been seeing more and more comments about dimensional inconsistencies. While I've not had a problem with napa bearings, even their cheaper ones, however, just yesterday, I had a pair of SKF bearings not fit real well.

PLEASE DO NOT USE YOUR CHANNELLOCKS. I'll loan you a socket before I'll let you use pliers. The same truck that had the problem with the bearing, someone had used a chisel to remove and tighten the hub nuts. There is a vehicle that uses the same size socket, try searching for it.

L'Chaim,
PT

 

[alex]

Just get timken set 37 from autozone for the bearings. as for the socket, get a hub nut socket for a toyota land cruiser from an auto parts store. Its just a tad larger than 2-1/16 but works fine. only costs a few $$$

 

[crown14]

I got a 2 1/16 socket from a Carquest store that stocked tools when I needed a hub socket a few years back. Just about any store like that, or Napa, or the like should have what you need. Mine was a regular socket, not made for hubs but was just deep enough to do the job.
Some folks get by without these at all, and use a punch or a chisel. If in the past the job has been "hacked" by someone who tore up the lockwasher or the locknut itself, I like to have replacements on hand. Dont know the part numbers by heart, but somewhere on this computer I have an old master list of part numbers for this area of the vehicle...

I will try and dig it up and report back.

 

[crown14]

Crap cant find it- but here are some common numbers of other related stuff.

Stub axle gasket (all) FTC3650
stub axle lock washer FTC5241
axle nut FRC8700
front flange dust cap FTC5414

PT does that part number you gave work on all the D1/RRC hubs? The number I seem to remember ends in 8222...

 

[Brockflock]

Thanks, PT and Crown14.

I am only in need of the bearing seals. I have everything else, or can get it locally. It's interesting that the seals have so many different part #'s Some sites show just one part # for all D1's, regardless of whether or not it's front or rear. My CD manual from Hertiage Motor Centre (similar to RAVE disc) shows two different seals for the front, depending on VIN#, and a different one for the rear.

Go figure.

I'm going to let Rovers North settle this for me.

I already ordered the socket for the hub nuts. It has to come with a 1" drive. From NAPA - it's a deep well socket and it runs about $31.00. I guess I can always use it to anchor my yacht (when I get one!). It will probably weigh enough!

Your help is appreciated.