Grrr...Murphy's Law - Throttle Heater Plate

[rovercanus]

This is fine and good and I could really care less that this guy has only seen one.

I had bypassed the heater on my DII and my wife nearly drove through the garage door driving up our driveway.

The things freeze up without the heater so bypassing it is just a stupid move that is only going to save you $15 and about 20 min of time so why do it?

I can't believe people still argue about this. Fuck 'em, let them run off a cliff.

 

[mbrummal]

xpresario, the venturi is there to to create a pressure drop and pull fuel into the air stream, not atomize the fuel. It atomizes in thee intake manifold.

And yes, it is stupid to NOT fix this.

 

[ptschram]

I can't believe people still argue about this. Fuck 'em, let them run off a cliff.

Thomas Jefferson put it best. "It is his affair not mine if he prefers error".

 

[nolift911]

So I filed the surface down and it is pretty smooth and seems level and true - what I am reading is there is no need to add any type of gasket sealant etc - just use the gasket and nothing else?

What I usually do regardless of wether or not it specifies is use the spray on Permatex gasket "holder" (Red in color and sprayed on) if you will...keeps things from moving around and lets things set up a bit better IMO - its like a thin coating of the gassket material.

Anyway - if consensus is to use nothing I will go that route. Just tired of replaceing.

I was at the dealer this morning and dropped $200 for coolant leak parts -

the upper radiator hose (sans the moronic, flimsy nipped bleeder) with the new design that only comes with the T fitting and two other hoses for $100. The TB kit - a new piece of hose, TB gasket and a couple of clamps (not nipple)

Anyway plan on doing this repair tonight. So minus the bleed screw how do you bleed with the new T-fitting - is it self bleeding, it looks more like a vent at the T now.

Thanks -

 

[ptschram]

I don't use sealant on the gasket.

To bleed, gently snap the expansion tank free, lift it up so it is above the highest point in the cooling system. Fill the tank, loosen bleeder until coolant comes out, tighten bleeder, snap expansion tank back into place, run to op temp, allow to cool top coolant tank.

 

[flyfisher11]

xpresario, the venturi is there to to create a pressure drop and pull fuel into the air stream, not atomize the fuel. It atomizes in thee intake manifold.

And yes, it is stupid to NOT fix this.

Like you say Mason and I imagine that adiabatic processes could in the right environment affect the throttle body as well. If the dew point is within 3* of outside temperature theoretically it could freeze up at temps above freezing.

 

[xpresario]

xpresario, the venturi is there to to create a pressure drop and pull fuel into the air stream, not atomize the fuel. It atomizes in thee intake manifold.

And yes, it is stupid to NOT fix this.

The venturi assist in speeding the air up but for this engine isn't the fuel being introduced at or near the cylinder with the injectors?

 

[mbrummal]

The venturi assist in speeding the air up but for this engine isn't the fuel being introduced at or near the cylinder with the injectors?

The venturi DOES speed up the air. this pressure drop (in a carburetor) pulls fuel out of the float bowl through a few metering devices and into the air stream.


and yes, the fuel is injected a short distance from the intake valve in the rover.

 

[lagunarich]

1: disconnect battery (doesn't everything start with disconnecting the battery?)
2: Rotate the throttle/cruise cables so they can be slipped free.
3: 6 m/m nut driver or socket to loosen air intake tube, small screwdriver to snap IAC hose clamp free, gently remove IAC hose from intake tube, pull intake tube from intake.
4: loosen clamps holding hoses to throttle body.
5: Remove four screws holding throttle body to intake plenum.
6: turn throttle body over to expose deicer. Remove three tiny screws, plate and gasket.
7: While holding the throttle body steady, draw a fine tooth file across the mating surface of the throttle body where the plenum deicer was before we removed it. The first path will usually reveal any imperfections. Continue gently draw-filing this surface until it is true, evidenced by a smooth cut all the way across the face. Clean with brake cleaner or similar, allow to dry. Reassemble opposite of disassembly.

did the repair, with the correct parts. thanks for the walkthrough! Smoked when I initially started it up (inlet hose snuck out from where I had stuck it during the install process and leaked). Still smell coolant, probably due to this thing leaking for a bit. See no leaks. No permatex, just the gasket.

put about 80 miles on it since, coolant level and temp gauge are steady. will be watching like a hawk for awhile and carrying a gallon of coolant in the back...

thanks again,

-LR

 

[flyfisher11]

did the repair, with the correct parts. thanks for the walkthrough! Smoked when I initially started it up (inlet hose snuck out from where I had stuck it during the install process and leaked). Still smell coolant, probably due to this thing leaking for a bit. See no leaks. No permatex, just the gasket.

put about 80 miles on it since, coolant level and temp gauge are steady.

thanks again,

-LR

:applause: attaboy!

 

[Mil4x4Disco]

I replaced my Throttle body heater at 105K. Leak started when I was 986 miles away from home. I made a temp gasket for it and ordered the factory replacement parts. I made it home and changed out the temp fix. It's been solid ever since.

 

[rovercanus]

I replaced my Throttle body heater at 105K. Leak started when I was 986 miles away from home. I made a temp gasket for it and ordered the factory replacement parts. I made it home and changed out the temp fix. It's been solid ever since.

You actually have a cb call sign?

 

[Discoinjapan]

You actually have a cb call sign?

yes and its' Rover One! even I can read.

 

[rovercanus]

yes and its' Rover One! even I can read.

You can read?