Looks like it's that time for a HG as I have two leaks now (one on each side). Any one have pros/cons to using studs rather than the standard head bolts? D & D has a stud kit for the Rover 4.0L.
JohnB said:Plus I bet you would have to pull the engine. I doubt there is enough clearance to slide on the heads.
Durt D1ver said:Then just put the stud in question in after placing the head on. The main reason people use stretch bolts instead of studs is cost. A set of ARP studs are almost double the cost of head bolts. That and people aren't aware of the advantages of studs, or just dont feel they're worth the cost on a non-performance engine
landrovered said:Studs work and are available at almost the same cost as stretch bolts.
All the above excuses not to use them is bunkum.
landrovered said:Studs work and are available at almost the same cost as stretch bolts.
All the above excuses not to use them is bunkum.
JohnB said:Great.
So what is the torque for nuts? Same gasket(composite)or the older metal style ones?
jymmiejamz said:What's wrong with the stretch bolts? If you don't want to use stretch bolts I would just use the older style bolts and gaskets rather than studs, but that's just me.
landrovered said:They don't seem to work given the outstanding results with rover head gasket failures.
phowie50 said:We sent ARP the specs, they happily made the studs and 2nd day aired them to us for $200. Turn around for the custom order was under 5 days.
I know the motor is basically the same throughout its 40 whatever year existence, but are the studs specs the same for the various generations/iterations? Over the phone, ARP didn't think so.Durt D1ver said:They're off the shelf, part# 124-4003
they're $129 at summit racing.