Headers?

seventyfive

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2010
4,280
100
over there
Anyone that would not approve having those headers sticking out of the hood are people I generally don't associate with. Honestly, I'm dropping a set of stock manifolds off at a shop here in Frederick to get some shorty headers made to bolt to the stock y pipe. I'll keep you posted.
 

KyleT

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2007
6,059
8
39
Fort Worth, TEXAS
1920SF said:
So I'm confused, Randy has P38 headers on something-but they won't clear the frame...
Guess it begs the question to Randy what those are bolted onto.
r-
Ray


i dont know, i would be really happy if they fit a D2... would make it a whole lot easier for me...
 

seventyfive

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2010
4,280
100
over there
I'm not 100% sold on coating vs wrapping and wrapping manifolds is impossible to wrap properly. However I did get a set of manifold blankets, should be here Monday. That with wrapping the y pipe should cut down some heat

Unless randy modified the manifolds I don't see how they would fit a disco. The downpipe is at a 45ish degree angle.
 

ERover82

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2011
3,923
460
Darien Gap
Can't be any worse than the stock manifolds. I swear the holes never line up and I end up having to grind them wider.

I got the ceramic coated manifolds from Justin. They work well and look good.
 

96discoI

Well-known member
Feb 16, 2008
216
1
NorCal
Please guys and gals, if heat is all you are worried about, just get fireproof sleeves for the spark plug wires. I have been running low octane 87 since sleeving my plug wires and never had a problem with heat again.If you coat manifolds doesn't that keep the heat inside to warp the heads? just a thought. anyway, I also had to pull off the manifolds to retap the bolt holes to a slightly larger and consistent thread pattern. rover bolts are so weird that they even got a mention on the movie 'Cars 2'. The rover is the villain that is leaking oil everywhere and Tow Mater speaks of the bolts that 'aren't metric or standard'. It took about 2 years for my bolt job to even begin to loosen from the heat. this can be done by hand with the proper reamer tool because the heads are aluminum. Just one case here, I am not saying that it will work for everybody but it beats all the work and money if all you need is less heat and manifold leaks. I would put my quiet exhaust up against any rover, old or new. good luck, all
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
96discoI said:
Please guys and gals, if heat is all you are worried about, just get fireproof sleeves for the spark plug wires. I have been running low octane 87 since sleeving my plug wires and never had a problem with heat again.If you coat manifolds doesn't that keep the heat inside to warp the heads? just a thought. anyway, I also had to pull off the manifolds to retap the bolt holes to a slightly larger and consistent thread pattern. rover bolts are so weird that they even got a mention on the movie 'Cars 2'. The rover is the villain that is leaking oil everywhere and Tow Mater speaks of the bolts that 'aren't metric or standard'. It took about 2 years for my bolt job to even begin to loosen from the heat. this can be done by hand with the proper reamer tool because the heads are aluminum. Just one case here, I am not saying that it will work for everybody but it beats all the work and money if all you need is less heat and manifold leaks. I would put my quiet exhaust up against any rover, old or new. good luck, all

It may be about heat, but that's not the entire picture. The objective is to remove it as quickly as possible, while containing it until it's out of the engine bay. Catalytic converters haven't made that any easier. Treated manifolds won't soak as readily, and improve the evacuation process as a result.

I've ceramic coated mine inside and out. Not only does it keep the heat in the exhaust stream, it eliminates rust. The coating will not increase the probability of warped heads. It will reduce it. You are moving the heat away, instead of allowing it to soak dissimilar metals in contact with each other.

The manifolds are still hot, naturally, but more heat energy is allowed to leave the engine bay. Further improvement can be gained with tubular headers, but only if they are properly designed, assembled, and coated.

If you want to wrap your wires, it's your prerogative. I personally find the wrap becomes annoyingly dirty over time after dusty and muddy driving, and it's damned near impossible to clean. Those sleeves won't do anything to get the heat out of your engine bay, either. Simple wires with proper insulation, tight connectors, and good plugs will alleviate most issues.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

Jake1996D1

Well-known member
Mar 28, 2011
3,363
1
West Des Moines IA
Well I got the headers, took my starter off, swapped to the D2 knock sensor - but apparently I need the harness as well...

But with the harness hicup aside I decided to test fit them and they fit like a glove! These must be made more for the Rover than the Hedmans because I didnt have any issues at all.