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Expensive way
http://www.viggdesigns.com/lineup/roverstuff.htm
Cheap way
Rustoleum Matt Black Rattle can
http://www.viggdesigns.com/lineup/roverstuff.htm
Cheap way
Rustoleum Matt Black Rattle can
Got mine from Vigg Designs and am very pleased with fit and quality. Remember that you will need two people when installing. It's large piece and hard to place by yourself
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syoung
Guest
syoung said:
Did you wet sand the hood?
Or just prime first and paint over it.
I've wanted to do it for a while, just never knew anyone else who did it.
Thanks.
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syoung
Guest
Just used a scotch-brite scuff pad on the stock paint and painted the black section right over top. Worked great. I don't think anything at all about setting a wrench or a drink on the hood.
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syoung
Guest
Just take your time masking it well- the curves on the front corners take some patience to get perfect. Running a black pinstripe along the edge might help keep the edge of the painted surface from chipping and lifting up. Mine hasn't done it much, but it would protect the edge a bit.
Me too, sanded, primed and painted with Krylon, flat black, the camo stuff.
If I were to do it again, I would take the hood off and paint vertically to avoid any drips due to using spray cans of paint. I did about 4 coats, no problem. Edges are not professional quality, but they are good.
I am much happier with the flatness of the paint vs the decal. Great for sun and headlamp glare, the first few times I drove at night it seemed like I had a black hole on my hood.
Brian
If I were to do it again, I would take the hood off and paint vertically to avoid any drips due to using spray cans of paint. I did about 4 coats, no problem. Edges are not professional quality, but they are good.
I am much happier with the flatness of the paint vs the decal. Great for sun and headlamp glare, the first few times I drove at night it seemed like I had a black hole on my hood.
Brian
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syoung
Guest
Good point about removing the hood- I removed mine and it was much easier. It really surprised me how much better I liked the hood being blacked out- it makes a big difference.
P
Panama Disco
Guest
Chris Browne said:
Chris,
Hey what?s the difference between $75 hood blackout and the Factory "Land Rover"
brand hood blackout LR PT # LRN9000KAL $215. Other than the prices what are the differences.
Thanks,
Peter
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syoung
Guest
I don't know what vinyl is used for the LR OEM part, but the cheaper one appears to be 7 year vinyl. The one thing about 7 year vinyl is that on a hood of a vehicle, 7 years would be a miracle. Figure 4 at most before it peels or fades significantly.
As far as being removable- usually yes. The longer it's on there, the more difficult to remove. Usually the worst case requires using chemical removers etc that slightly damage the paint- requiring a repaint or most often just a wet sand and clearcoat respray.
My vinyl plotter isn't wide enough to make one of those, but I'd try the cheaper one- but remove it at the first sign of fading/peeling etc.
If I get my new Disco tomorrow (crossing fingers), I'll probably buy the cheap one.
As far as being removable- usually yes. The longer it's on there, the more difficult to remove. Usually the worst case requires using chemical removers etc that slightly damage the paint- requiring a repaint or most often just a wet sand and clearcoat respray.
My vinyl plotter isn't wide enough to make one of those, but I'd try the cheaper one- but remove it at the first sign of fading/peeling etc.
If I get my new Disco tomorrow (crossing fingers), I'll probably buy the cheap one.
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Snwbord24
Guest
Is it possible to get one that's magentic? Like the things people put on their doors for advertising. Just a thought. That way you could put it on and take it off when you wanted. Probably too expensive to deal with though unless you know the right people to make you one.
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syoung
Guest
Actually, you could go magnetic- the hoods are steel, right? I can't even remember which parts are aluminum and which are steel on the Discos.
Anyway- sheet magnetic material is usually a little thick and would eventually scratch and possibly trap moisture on the paint and screw it up. I use magnetic number panels on my race car and the damned things have ruined the paint. The cost of a chunk that large wouldn't be TOO bad- bulk roll that size is probably $50
I think if a decal lasts 4 years and then you peel it and slap on another cheap decal, then that's really not that bad. I have had my painted panel on my Freelander for over a year now and it still looks really good. A body shop would probably only charge $150 at most to paint the panel. Just watch their prep and tape job- that makes or breaks it.
Anyway- sheet magnetic material is usually a little thick and would eventually scratch and possibly trap moisture on the paint and screw it up. I use magnetic number panels on my race car and the damned things have ruined the paint. The cost of a chunk that large wouldn't be TOO bad- bulk roll that size is probably $50
I think if a decal lasts 4 years and then you peel it and slap on another cheap decal, then that's really not that bad. I have had my painted panel on my Freelander for over a year now and it still looks really good. A body shop would probably only charge $150 at most to paint the panel. Just watch their prep and tape job- that makes or breaks it.
Panama Disco said:
Dunno, perhaps as little as the weight of your wallet afterwards. But don't you just love to make your dealer smile?
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syoung
Guest
I'd be willing to bet there's a HUGE difference in quality- the question is if that difference is significant. I've never seen an oem LR one fade, crack and peel. I have seen a LOAD of aftermarket vinyl that does.