Ign Amp Module Relocation - same as 94/95 D1?

[luckyjoe]

I have a 1995 RRC LWB with this coil wiring configuration.

I spoke with AB about their relocation kit, and they have never seen the red & blue wires, nor do they know what to do with them regarding the relocation install. I'm hopeful that my 95 Classic shares these wires with either 1994 or 1995 D1's and someone here can let me know if the red & blue should be left in place or disconnected. Otherwise I have to open the loom and trace them.

I've had this truck for 18 months and am now on my second module in the stock location. After a 500 mile trip last weekend the module has started to overheat and fail to start until it cools down. So, I think I'm ready to give in to relocation...

 

[robertf]

That looks how my 95 was factory.

Are you using thermal paste between the icm and bracket? If you've got a computer store nearby get some there. The clear shit that is sometimes included with the ICM is no good

 

[luckyjoe]

Yes, I used the white thermal paste, and the module retention screws are tight. Last weekend after three hours on the highway we pulled in for a pit-stop and it would not restart. I opened the bonnet and could touch the module (was not THAT hot), I waited 10 minutes (with bonnet up) and she fired right away.

Could be a faulty module, but if the relocation will eliminate this then I'm game...

 

[luckyjoe]

Are you using thermal paste between the icm and bracket?

I just realized you said bracket. My module mounts directly to the distributor. Is yours on the distributor or on a bracket behind the coil?

 

[robertf]

It was on a bracket by the coil next to the radiator on the drivers side under the steering reservoir. I believe that's factory, I think rave shows it that way too

That was several different distributors ago so I can't take a picture.

 

[luckyjoe]

Robert - thanks, that helps. I'll try and find a 95 D1 wiring diagram and see if the red & blue wired are identified.

 

[robertf]

The red and blue wires go to the ICM. One is 12v switched power. It taps in at the coil + post. The other one is the secondary coil wire (-). You should be able to trace that up to the ICM. It's a stand alone harness. I easily removed mine when I went to a different style distributor.

 

[luckyjoe]

Perfect! That is exactly what I needed. I'll trace them and confirm, then hopefully be all set for the relocation!

Many Thanks,
Tom

 

[discostew]

I would relocate your module for sure. But while its running check each coil connector on the coil so you know how they act. When the distributor is turning it should be pulsing on one terminal and on solid at the other.
Then when it's back doing it's cranks but won't start thing check those again while someone cranks it for you. If its pulsing the one side of the coil and it still has no spark I would suspect the coil itself.

 

[XCELLER8]

I would relocate your module for sure. But while its running check each coil connector on the coil so you know how they act. When the distributor is turning it should be pulsing on one terminal and on solid at the other.
Then when it's back doing it's cranks but won't start thing check those again while someone cranks it for you. If its pulsing the one side of the coil and it still has no spark I would suspect the coil itself.

great idea !.....gotta save this one for my list of tricks on my 95D1

 

[luckyjoe]

Yes, really good info and ideas here!

This is Dweb...

 

[ptschram]

It may be worth it to swap over to the GM HEI amp if you're having serious problems.

 

[robertf]

It may be worth it to swap over to the GM HEI amp if you're having serious problems.

Rover icm is cheap these days. Back when they were $300 it made sense, but now you're just butchering the harness for no real gain and less water resistant terminals

Besides, it's there rotors that are the current junk part

 

[luckyjoe]

This morning I traced the Red & Blue wires from the coil and they do in fact go to the ignition amplifier module on the distributor. I then traced the two remaining wires and found the black/white (the relocation instructions say to remove) triggers the injector circuit, and the other is from the ignition. Knowing this I re-installed the relocation kit, disconnecting the unused red & blue, leaving everything else in place and bingo, perfect start.

I'll contact both suppliers and update them with the technical info so anyone else installing this kit on a late 1995MY RRC will know their ignition amp and coil wiring more closely matches the 1994-1995 D1 wiring. Hopefully they can avoid these issues.

Thanks again for the technical assistance !!!

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