Is Champion the best plug for 99' DII?

JohnB

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2007
2,295
12
Oregon
I run Champion truck plugs. Or have for the last 60K. Probably time to replace. Strange that I can't even find that plug on the Champion website anymore. It was a black colored spark plug.
I do not run plats but thats just me.
 

Roverfire

Well-known member
Jan 2, 2005
743
0
Casper,WY
Doesn't seem like Champion makes the truck plugs anymore. I think I'll just go with the 7070 double platinum. O'Reilly has them for $3.49.
 

JohnB

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2007
2,295
12
Oregon
Figures. They probably lasted too long. I know I have put 60K on mine and they are still rockin. Did pull them a few months ago when I had a coil pack fail. Checked gaps and re-installed.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
I use NGK Iridium.

You get a smaller center electrode than copper, as well as a harder material. I chose these plugs for the smaller electrode, because the RV8 tends to shit where it eats when not driven properly. the reduced replacement interval is good as well. We've got aluminum heads, and I wanted to keep the Heli-Coils away as long as possible.

NGK also seems to provide a better surface finish than average, which seems to help prevent damage during removal.

Iridium provides the benefits of Platinum, while minimizing the drawbacks as much as possible. You'll also tend to find it in more sensible plug designs than platinum. I personally don't see the point of a platinum plug in a market that includes an iridium option.

Now, mind you, I'm a bit unhinged, so the above information isn't any manner of firm suggestion. It's just what I use and why I use it. Few people concern themselves with that stuff.


If you just can't decide what to get, buy whatever the manual tells you to buy.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

JohnB

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2007
2,295
12
Oregon
kennith said:
I use NGK Iridium.
Cheers,

Kennith

I broke a few of those trying to gap them. Very tender little suckers. Then it occured to me that I have no idea if they should be gapped to my older specs. Comepletely befuddled me. Not hard to do. What did you do just install them right out of the box?
 

JohnB

Well-known member
Oct 18, 2007
2,295
12
Oregon
No gapping. Makes sense. Strange that my D2 calls for platinum plugs and a gap is clearly identified in Rave and on my core support. Thats why I will continue with cheap copper plugs.
 

kennith

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2004
10,891
172
North Carolina
JohnB said:
I broke a few of those trying to gap them. Very tender little suckers. Then it occured to me that I have no idea if they should be gapped to my older specs. Comepletely befuddled me. Not hard to do. What did you do just install them right out of the box?

Nope. I gap them very precisely with proper feeler gauges at perfect ninety degree angles.

Distance is distance, no matter what metals are involved. The spark still has to bridge a fixed gap. Even the expensive iridium plugs come out of the box with widely varied gaps.

I've never had any issues in that regard. I use lightly pressured tapping on a hard-topped neoprene base mouse pad for minor adjustments, and a rubber padded desktop vice with a deep adapter and nylon shims for those plugs that are far away from specification. I use equal care when opening gaps.

NEVER scratch, scuff or otherwise damage the finish anywhere on the plug. Sparks and carbon like sharp edges, and you'll create those edges if you use any "gapping" tool on the market. Do that, and you've wasted your money on expensive plugs.

Stay away from those tools, don't use those round gauges hanging above the counter in your parts store, and never bend the arm one way and then back another. Kick back, watch some television, and take more time than you need. Finish an entire show during the process, and you'll know you haven't rushed it.

Without proper attention to detail, too many variables exist to determine what differences may be present between any number of spark plug technologies or brands. These parts rely on very precise qualities to do their job properly.

There is no sense spending more than a dollar for a spark plug if you are going to botch the installation. Chase the threads, clean the seats, polish the washers, and use whatever lubricant or anti-seize compound that is required, in the proper manner (there is a right and a wrong way). Gap them carefully and properly.

At the very least, you'll be able to get them out later without removing half the head's aluminum in the process.

Cheers,

Kennith
 

seventyfive

Well-known member
Jan 3, 2010
4,280
100
over there
roverover said:
I would assume you have equal length wires also. And how do you assure that the electrodes are all pointed in the same position and depth in the combustion chamber?
randy,
i mark the spark plug to ensure the electrodes are all at 12 o'clock in the cylinder. the plug wires are all exact lengths, the coil packs are enclosed in a special made enclosure that is not only water tight but is climate controlled to keep the interior temperature 25% humidity and 68 degrees fahrenheit. I'm using a NASA grade thermal protection system on the plug wires.
i could show you this set up at the conclave, but a binding confidentiality agreement will not allow me.
but i guarantee you I'm getting an extra 1.8 mpg above 3000 rpm, and about 3 hp gain.
 

riceybean

Well-known member
Jun 29, 2008
861
0
Vancouver, WA
Had Bosch 4's in my 99 when I got it, ran like crap. Tried the Champion plugs, it was better but not "good". Then tried the NGK basic ass plug, runs like a champ. Go figure.

NGK BKR6ES-11