its got to be a stick valve right?

R

range_time

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2010
79
0
Las Vegas, Nevada
its got to be a stuckvalve right? Now with Video!

So long story shot.
Got check engine light on wifes (new to us) 2001 DII 135k miles.
scanned it and it say cylinder 5 misfire. swapped wires and plug from my 99DII same problem.
Cleared code rerouted all the wires, new plugs.. same issues.
Then notice there is a real puffing noise from the rocker cover on the drivers side, above Cyl 5... remove the oil filler cap and low and behold its like a steam train, puffing like a teenager at the mall!

So i assume i have a stuck (or bugged) valve or valves.

In my searching i'm seeing choices from cans of seafoam in the intake, a quart of ATF in the oil, drain all the oil and run ATF for 20 min to try and ungunk it or just pull the heads and rebuild the top end.

As this has just stated i wanted to try some cheap solutions first, anyone got any recommendations as to where to start and if its coming up in the rocker cover its an intake valve (rather than exhaust right)??

I'm all ears and drinking beers right now so fire away!

Thanks
Dave
 
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TOZOVR

TOZOVR

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Sep 6, 2004
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York, ME
www.unityhandbuiltcycles.com
It's odd. A sticky or stuck lifter is something I hear about all the time, yet have never encountered one in the wild. I think the term gets applied (incorrectly) to a certain symptoms that fall into the scope of valve train noise and loss of power. I'm just a young pup at 36 and have owned over 40 cars and worked on hundreds, but have never seen a stuck lifter. Ever. Of course I haven't ever seen The Crying Game either...
 
R

range_time

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2010
79
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Las Vegas, Nevada
I'll take some video and post it so you can see what i saw and hear it in action. I am pretty sure its time to pull the heads off and see what i got going on in there.
 
cosmic88

cosmic88

Well-known member
Sep 15, 2010
436
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Florida
Timmy!!!!!!! said:
Don't you need an 8mm thin wall socket to get the valve cover bolts off?
Click to expand...

yep and 1/4" drive usually fits best but you may be able to get away with 3/8" IF the socket wall is thin enough.

I agree with the comp. test... and check rocker cover venting.?
 
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R

range_time

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2010
79
0
Las Vegas, Nevada
ptschram said:
Slow down everybody. There are many ways that excess pressure can be vented through the oil fill cap.

First things first, let's pull that valve cover and see what's really happening inside there.

It's a coupla hours and less than $100 in parts.
Click to expand...

What should i be looking for when i get the cover off?
 
cosmic88

cosmic88

Well-known member
Sep 15, 2010
436
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Florida
If it was like pressure was being released when you removed the oil cap then you have no Rocker cover venting going on... Is that what you meant like "steam train"? Or did you just mean you saw "smoke"?
 
R

range_time

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2010
79
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Las Vegas, Nevada
singingcamel said:
I want a better definition of this Puffing Noise.. Icant help but think that if is a puffing noise, its a exhaust issue, look for a cracked manifold, bad manifold gasket or head gasket.
Click to expand...

The puffing noise is just like a steam train puff-puff-puff-puff in time with the RPM's i also thought i had cracked a manifold to start with but on checking could not find a leak (and i have99 Wrangler and have cracked it 2x so know what these are like). Also the noise was coming from under the valve train cover, you could hear it was kind of muffled, that is when i removed the oil filler cap and realizes it was pressure from the piston.

With the oil filler cap removed there is a totally regular blast of air coming up from the filler cap, in time with a RPMS, i dont mean a little gust, i mean a real hard puff, and the noise or "puffing sound" is about 10 times louder with the cap off and you can see the misty oil vapor being puffed up with each stroke, you can put your hand over the oil filler pipe and feel it, you dont have to cover it the opening its so strong you can have it 2 inches above it and feel the air (and hear it) moving on your hand, I'll shoot some video tonight and post it on youtube for people to see. Also its defiantly the noise i am hearing from under the drivers side rocker cover.

now the final test was to pull my 99d II beside my wifes and check the same thing, on mine there is no noticeable "puffs", noise or air or anything coming out of the oil filler neck when the cap is removed and motor running.

Compression was ..... 60 PSI on cyl 5 so i'm really leaning towards a valve(s) issues as a likely problem. well i hope its that and not a hole in the piston or something that is putting the pressure down in into the crank case, but that would have blown the main rear seal right?

going to try and get out of work a little early today so i can pull the intake and the rocker cover, any advice on doing that?

Thanks
Dave
 
R

range_time

Well-known member
Apr 22, 2010
79
0
Las Vegas, Nevada
eliaschristeas said:
seen this on a few different trucks. DO A COMPRESSION TEST. i have found this to always be rings....
Click to expand...

Sorry dont know if you saw in the post from this morning i have done a compression test as it was 60 PSI for Cyl 5. is there anyway to tell if its rings or valves without a strip down of the motor?

I'm just guessing here, with rings the pressure would go down into the crank case (passed the rings) and i should be able to feel pressure blowing out the dip stick hole perhaps?

I guess i was thinking valves due to the puffing noise at the valve train, i would think (and again im just guessing) that you would not be able pressure slipping passed the rings in the block, again im just guessing.

Dave
 
thospb

thospb

Active member
Dec 8, 2010
35
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Placerville CA
You can do a Leak-down test to determine where the compression loss is. You can probably rent the gauge needed. It basically applies compressed air to the cylinder when the valves are in the closed/overlap position. With compression that low (60psi) it will be obvious where the leak is - into the crankcase (piston or rings), past the Exhaust Valve, or past the Intake Valve.
 
B

Bosbefok

Well-known member
Jul 20, 2010
420
0
Orlando, FL
Do a wet compression test and if your PSI jumps up then it's most likely worn rings. A wet test is when you squirt some oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. If it makes no difference then it could be valves.
The crank case and the valve covers are not isolated, pressure in the crank case will be felt at the oil fill cap.
 
ptschram

ptschram

Well-known member
Sep 27, 2004
21,955
50
In the shop doing the Lord's work one broken Rover
www.ptschram.com
thospb said:
You can do a Leak-down test to determine where the compression loss is. You can probably rent the gauge needed. It basically applies compressed air to the cylinder when the valves are in the closed/overlap position. With compression that low (60psi) it will be obvious where the leak is - into the crankcase (piston or rings), past the Exhaust Valve, or past the Intake Valve.
Click to expand...

Don't even need to be that fancy, just use an airline adapter to pressurize the cylinder. If it's leaking that badly, you'll figure it out right quick.
 
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