i've been reading about this & now i know the frustration of a bad igniton switch!

Skaramunga

Well-known member
Sep 25, 2004
1,866
0
42
Kennedrunkport, Oxidationland
i've been reading about this & now i know the frustration of a bad igniton switch!

i drive her to work, park& go inside everything ok. when i leave key wont turn no matter what. i know what is going on here i read things on dweb. so now my truck is stuck in a parking lot waiting for me.

i realize i have the keyless ignition option, but it's too cold to do wiring now. i had to walk home 3 miles in this bitter weather this am in a sweatshirt not nice.

so to all you who have had this happen, what can i do to get it out of that lot? i cant even have it towed, as the fucker wont shift into neutral. so what is the fastest way to get it moving again. should i just buy a used ignition switch setup & deal this with the wiring this spring? i dont care if the key matches, or if i have to use a screwdriver to start it...what do you guys have for me. i am kinda screwed we are gonna get more snow and my boss is going be pissed.:banghead:
 

dharms

New member
Jan 1, 2009
2
0
IL
Re: i've been reading about this & now i know the frustration of a bad igniton switch!

Try some lock lubricant to see if you can free the tumblers.
Can you remove the key? If so try having a new one ground and ask them to over grind (deeper) if possible.
The lock tumbler will not turn in the cylinder due to the fact that the tumblers are not retracted out of the grooves in the cylinder.
When working properly the brass tumblers retract into the cylinder when the key is inserted. As the key wears and the tumblers wear they may not retract from the groove and the lock tumber will not turn.
If lubricant or a different key does not work you can remove the lock tumbler and try to "adjust" it.
Start by removing the floor mat and replacing it with something that will collect parts.
Remove the cowl between the steering wheel and dash. The lock cylinder is held in the ignition assembly by a small pin in the back. Carefully screw the pin out until you can remove the lock cylinder. If the cylinder is repairable the parts should all stay together....if broken they will probably go all over - but you'd have to replace it anyway.
After carefully removing the cylinder check to make sure the brass tabs fully retract when the key is inserted. If they don't fully retract they can be carefully filed until they are flush with the cylinder. Also, care fully check the groves in the lock to make sure they are clean and have nothing to stop the cylinder from turning. When reassembling be very careful with the screw holding the cylinder in. The lock mechanism is pot metal and it is very easy to cross thread the screw.

From experiance, the entire job can be done in the parking lot.
 

msggunny

Well-known member
Aug 3, 2007
2,978
3
Holly Ridge, NC
Re: i've been reading about this & now i know the frustration of a bad igniton switch!

I just did this a few years ago, i even have the extra one Mat put in mine when it failed.

If you want help, let me know. Im in Arundel and have a spare igniton switch, once you take out the tumblers you dont have to worry about what key you use. I have used my D2's key in my D1. Just cant open the doors with it....

Only problem is I am in Rangeley right now and wont be back until Friday.
 

WaltNYC

Well-known member
Mar 3, 2010
714
142
NYC
Re: i've been reading about this & now i know the frustration of a bad igniton switch!

I have the same problem intermittently. What I have discovered is that the key becomes deformed. In my case, the key is 'twisted' or 'torqued'. This happens when I lock and unlock the gas cap cover. It also happens when I don't put the key far enough into the ignition and then try to twist it. Sometimes when the column is locked and I'm in a hurry, I twist too hard without fully inserting the key.

The "solution" I've found for my case is to put the key half way into the ignition and GENTLY twist the opposite direction, bending it back into shape (straightening it).

So consider that it may be a deformed or 'twisted/torqued' key rather than the ignition switch or cylinder.
 

Skaramunga

Well-known member
Sep 25, 2004
1,866
0
42
Kennedrunkport, Oxidationland
Re: i've been reading about this & now i know the frustration of a bad igniton switch!

well this is an answer to both threads i started.

you live around the port now gunny? splendid choice man!

i think i jumped the gun the dirty little tumblers must have been seized up pretty good i guess, i managed to get it up and going today. no lube necessary just heat. perhaps i got moisture in it at some point. it still feels like junk in there tho.

what kinda of lube can i put in there to assist it? i had PB & lithium grease on me but used neither...didn't feel they were right. it should be a really light lube & water free to allow no freezing, right? any suggestions. i think if i hit it with some lube it'll be great again. i might get a new key cut too.

marty shipped me a shiny new, yet used ignition switch just in case it fouls itself beyond repair. i always seem to buy the parts b4 i know the issue, why? cause i love the bitch.
 

slowNstdy

Well-known member
Nov 28, 2005
408
0
Mckinney, Tx
Re: i've been reading about this & now i know the frustration of a bad igniton switch!

well if your looking for water displacing then use WD-40 hence the W D.... i would suggest white lithium
 

Max

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
117
0
Colorado
Re: i've been reading about this & now i know the frustration of a bad igniton switch!

Is the key stuck in it? if not does the key and cylinder push in? if it doesn't pop it with a punch or screwdriver and try the key again. max