Kickdown cable replacement, My current Hell

Beagle Bones

Well-known member
Oct 5, 2010
325
0
Nashville
Pretty certain if Dante had dealt with replacing one, he'd have certainly added another level of Hell.

Anyone familiar w/a good procedure. PT swears it can be done w/out removing the valve body. I got the old one out that way, but I just can't get that little barrel seated. After more than an hour fighting that little bastard I'm almost ready to drop the valve body.

Any surprises I should expect? Torque specs on the bolts holding it on would also be helpful. There's a silly YouTube video, but the punk skips from right before removing the valve body to a running truck.

It started life as a 1997 D1
 
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robertf

Well-known member
Jan 22, 2006
4,792
363
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Looking at the one on my bench, no way you don't have to remove the valve body

On the plus, removing the valve body doesn't seem to be a big deal. 13 screws
 

fishEH

Well-known member
Jan 26, 2009
6,929
203
Lake Villa, IL
I am coming to Nashville to beat you with a broken halfshaft! THEN, I will replace that damn cable for you.

It is NOT necessary and contraindicated to remove the valve body to replace the transmission control/kickdown cable.

A good tech would have had it done already. Gee, I wonder what the standard time is for R&R...

So what's the secret then, Chief?
 
So what's the secret then, Chief?


RTFM!

:)

The service manual describes the exact same process I shared with Mike last night.

Pull the cable taut, grab the cable with a pair of locking pliers (ONLY Snap-On will work), then gently clamp onto the bellcrank assembly with another pair of locking pliers (same applies) to hold the cam/bell crank in place. Using an SGASH pull the cable such that the cable slides through the cut-out in the bell crank/cam. Remove old cable.

To replace, extend cable through sheath to its fullest, insert through hole in trans, using picks and needle nose pliers, feed the cable end through the slot and carefully release the bell crank/cam and Bob's your uncle!
 

Beagle Bones

Well-known member
Oct 5, 2010
325
0
Nashville
I was Bob's Bitch last night. Good thing I don't pay myself according to the book. I had 2 hrs fiddling with the new cable. After reading the instructions PT sent, it's clear as mud. Exactly as he described on the phone, old man might remember a thing or two.

PT, you are welcome to come down and beat me w/said half shaft if you can refit the cable in 30 minutes. I'll turn on the webcam so the good people of Dweb don't miss the action. Then will have a few pints of Wicked Gate.
 

Beagle Bones

Well-known member
Oct 5, 2010
325
0
Nashville
Hot DAMN!!!!!!!!!!!

In a short 3 hours I was able to fit the cable. That's just time fighting the new cable. The ferrule didn't want to seat. I could get it just over half way then nothing. Finally w/a small flat tip screwdriver I forced that SOB home.
 

Flyfish

Well-known member
Oct 29, 2004
1,402
212
52
St. Louis
You should have just marked the valve body with a marker/tape/scribe for exact position and pulled it. Then it's a 15 min job and no need to beat the dog!

Nice job workin through it! Hopefully you preloaded the cam?!
 

Beagle Bones

Well-known member
Oct 5, 2010
325
0
Nashville
Ummm, What you talkin' about Willis?

Best I can tell, the bell crank can only rotate CCW until it hits the plunger going into the valve body (I think that where it originates). Not more than half way around. I did let it slip a few times but it only sprang back until it hit the plunger. Surely there's a more technical description of the plunger, but I don't know it.
 

Flyfish

Well-known member
Oct 29, 2004
1,402
212
52
St. Louis
I know if there is no cable on it, it will "unwind" so you give it approx 1 turn to "load" the spring. Sounds like you had it loaded a little bit with a half turn. Can't say whether another full turn is needed or not.

I'm sure PT or someone may be able to verify.