L8 D2 Flexi Flairs
- Thread starter KyleT
- Start date
50mm flares on a D1 with 36in TSLs
http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/...ery Series I 300TDI/DSCN6622.jpg?t=1301697961
http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/...ery Series I 300TDI/DSCN6622.jpg?t=1301697961
On mine I also saved the short seal on the rear door that gets cut off, and I just moved it to the truck side. That probably doesn't make sense. And I kept the front inner fender splash guards with some careful trimming so the mud does not pack up in the fender. I managed to keep the little gap guards in the quarterpanels too.
crown, that looks good.
75, can you find the p/n for the bmw rivits? ill see if we have them in stock.
75, can you find the p/n for the bmw rivits? ill see if we have them in stock.
LRflip said:
http://www.civilwarhome.com/marylandcmh.htm im one of you guys, i just dont have a funny accent.
KyleT said:
17 11 1 712 963 $.27 ea.
those things can be used for dozens of use. i originally ran a 10-24 tap thru all the rivets, but the screws will spin when you tighten them down, so ended up using stainless #10 sheet metal screws from mcmaster carr.
before you go and drill all the holes in your truck, take a piece of the cut away sheet metal, drill a 5/16 hole, put one of the rivets in and use a screwgun to run the screw in (using a screwdriver will probably spin the rivet). see what you think.
when you put the flares on i'd suggest (front fender for example) marking the top two holes and tighten those holes down first, that way you can push the flares out to the opening you need. i tried using a heat gun to warm them up, but it didn't help.
this is the strip joel and i are talking about. any trunk gasket from a bmw or newer benz should work, and it actually keeps mud and water out.
Can't seem to upload pics but just to add I originally used sheetmetal screws but re-did them with rivnuts and ss allen head button head screws. Looks and functions much better.
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
Cool I'll dig around at work and see what I can find. They are supposed to be delivered tomorrow so I'm excited.
Cool, I'd like to see just how much cutting is involved. I've heard anywhere from "a little trimming" to a "wholly cow."
Bringin this one back from the dead -
Two questions..
1. How much is actually taken off? I have a set of wedges and spacers I will probably be adding to what I have now but still probably going to need to open them up around 2"- would I be safe doing so and still be able to add these later on?
2. Did you guys trim that piece of plastic in the front fenders or take it out?
Diffs should be back in soon and then I will start the cutting. I'm gonna need to trim sliders and probably my front bumper a couple inches. am I allowed to say body lift on this forum? haha - Here is pics of where she is currently sitting
Two questions..
1. How much is actually taken off? I have a set of wedges and spacers I will probably be adding to what I have now but still probably going to need to open them up around 2"- would I be safe doing so and still be able to add these later on?
2. Did you guys trim that piece of plastic in the front fenders or take it out?
Diffs should be back in soon and then I will start the cutting. I'm gonna need to trim sliders and probably my front bumper a couple inches. am I allowed to say body lift on this forum? haha - Here is pics of where she is currently sitting
i cut alot, but I also mounted them up a bit more than they are supposed to be.
more than 2" in some places, and IIRC lass than 2 mainly at the top of the arc, cant remember. have pics somewhere on an ext HD ill have to look.
YOU can use D2 flares on a D1 as another option as well.
more than 2" in some places, and IIRC lass than 2 mainly at the top of the arc, cant remember. have pics somewhere on an ext HD ill have to look.
YOU can use D2 flares on a D1 as another option as well.
KyleT said:
I thought about the D2 flares as well but not sure they will open them up quite enough.. If anybody has pics of a d1 with 35's and +/- 3" with d2 flares I'd like to see it. I'm mostly worried about the fronts - in situations when I am turning while wheel is stuffed. The rears arent as bad cause I have the RTE arms spaced out and it's pretty much dead on in the center. When I cut I may add a 1" spacer or wedge and shim the trailing arm a bit more so I dont have to cut a shit ton off the door..
I want to open them up as much as possible so I can skip on a ton of lift and keep the COG down
oh and BUMP stops are your friends. the flaire is the easy part. the inner body is not. I cycled my suspension with no springs to determine how much room i had. and I still have to lower the stops more as when I got on the trail, the tires still found a way to get all jammed up.
rear was just bodywork. I was able to stuff all the way to the factory stop IIRC.
edit, D2 but should be the same principle other than you have less room to start with.
rear was just bodywork. I was able to stuff all the way to the factory stop IIRC.
edit, D2 but should be the same principle other than you have less room to start with.
KyleT said:
Yea thats what I figured it seems like I have quite a bit of room once I get past the sheet metal. I guess I will wait to see what I need. What did you end up with for bump stops? I'm gonna be at about 4" with 12" fox in the rear with the rear upper mounts maxed and either a 10 or 12" in the front with RTE towers and the 3 link when its all said and done...
i used these: https://rockymountainsusp.com/index.htm?stocknumber=KU09017+DA
made some brackets and welded them on. I used the two hole ones vs the stud one so they wouldnt rip off.
made some brackets and welded them on. I used the two hole ones vs the stud one so they wouldnt rip off.
KyleT said:
So those are just the slotted day stars? Are the slots too wide to do something directly on the frame?
I was also looking at these - are they any good? obviously in addition to something from mounted
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