LR3 - Being told to replace entire transmission!

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Naegling

Member
Jul 31, 2016
9
0
Oregon
I could really use some help here - I'm totally new to Rovers, and in WAY over my head.


So here's the story boys -

My wife fell in love with the LR3 (as did I), so we found a white 2005 HD with 122k a couple hours away, took it to a reputable third party Rover repair shop and had it checked out. It came back with a clean bill of health except for a stuck rear diff (it's an HD), and a bad alternator. We discussed this with the dealership and we ended up getting it for what I thought was a good enough deal that I could fix the mechanical issues and still be in a good spot with the vehicle.

The second day of ownership started with the LR3 going into "limp mode" and throwing up the "Transmission fault - limited gears available" on the dash. Having read some threads on this, I was putting this down to the bad alternator, and low amperage/voltage. I charged the car overnight, and it ran fine the next day for the first 15 minutes of driving or so, then it would go into the same fault. Again, my thinking was, if the battery is not getting the proper charge, I'm losing electrical pixies, so the car is throwing a fit.

- Replaced alternator
- Replaced battery
- Replaced driver tail light bulb

I checked the codes with my OBD sensor, and got back P0735 - 5th gear incorrect ratio. At this point it was shifting hard from about 3rd gear on. Fixing all the things I knew how to do, it was time to have a pro look at it.

Being that this is my first Rover, and for my wife, I wanted it perfect (or as perfect as a 11 year old truck can get) so my wife drove it to Outland Motors in Bend, OR to have it looked at by a professional. Outland had the same issues. It would drive fine for the first 10 minutes or so, then start shifting hard and throwing codes...

Outland has run some diagnostics and believes I might need an entire new transmission. I'm fine with that if it actually needs it, but it seems excessive for something that could be a myriad of smaller problems.

Here is my thinking and what I think we should try first:

1. Transmission flush with Mercon SP
2. Replacement of mechitronics unit and new solenoids - along with new filter and fluid
3. Replacement of transmission.

So here's my questions:

Could a stuck rear diff be causing a ratio mismatch with the input/output shafts in the tranny? would fixing that fix the transmission issues?

Does this sound reasonable? Or am I throwing money away on a tranny that just needs replaced?

Do I have Outland do the work or take it to an actual transmission shop?

If I do need a valve assembly or transmission, where do I source them for cheap?

I've been in love with Discovery's since I watched the Camel Rally's as a kid. I really really want to love this vehicle, and I know they can be eccentric, but this has been in the shop almost since we bought it. Time to get it fixed and start using it!:banghead:

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N

Naegling

Member
Jul 31, 2016
9
0
Oregon
Is there a thread, or someone that could tell me a good Indy shop in Oregon? Outland has a rover technician, but I have know idea what they actually have for scanners/autologic.
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
The broken rear dif motor will cause the trans fault message to be displayed. It reports its faults via the trans ecu. The hard shifting and other stuff may well be a trans. We had a ass hat on here with the same troubles and a long thread attempting to help him up until the post he made telling us he had a go fund me account and asking us all to give him our tax returns to fix it. So you should be able to find those threads pretty easily.
 
N

Naegling

Member
Jul 31, 2016
9
0
Oregon
Thanks Discostew.

The only GoFundMe I have is my own overtime at work to cover the cost of repairs...

So what would you do here? Fix the rear diff first, and then move down the list?

Thanks for the help also. Looking to be a good member of this community and will give back where I can.
 
1920SF

1920SF

Well-known member
Jan 6, 2007
2,705
1
NoVA
If you know the dif is bad from the inspection, fix that first and foremost and go from there.

If you don't want to use the dealer to source the parts there are aftermarket suppliers for them-and like any good LR owner, or Churchill as prime minister, never let a crisis go to waste and use the chance to replace the rear dif with an ARB if you want.
r-
Ray
 
N

Naegling

Member
Jul 31, 2016
9
0
Oregon
All that was said about the diff was when the Indy shop put it on the lift, the rear wheels were in a locked position (eg would not turn independently) but there is nothing showing on the info display about it being locked.
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
I would just go by the codes. Not sure why the rear dif would have been in a locked state on a lift, but if that's the only concern with the rear dif I would disregard. If the rear dif was really locked at all times you would feel it when making sharp turns. I would address codes and what you really feel from the drivers seat. Transmissions have such a low failure rate on these trucks that a used trans would be a good gamble in my opinion. We have a great vendor section on this board and someone will be able to hook you up if that's the choice you make.

I use the same go find me system you use.
 
N

Naegling

Member
Jul 31, 2016
9
0
Oregon
My wife was looking over my shoulder and thought you wrote CANNIBUS... She was wondering what kind of group I've got in with....
 
N

Naegling

Member
Jul 31, 2016
9
0
Oregon
Yeah, I've never felt the rear end biting like it was locked. I think I will try the flush first; that seems the cheapest route. If nothing else it might bring the other problems to the forefront.

Has anyone on here ever done a valve assembly replacement if it comes to that? Does the tranny still have to be pulled, or can it be done while in the rig?

Thanks again for all the help guys- it's appreciated.
 
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discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
Naegling said:
Yeah, I've never felt the rear end biting like it was locked. I think I will try the flush first; that seems the cheapest route. If nothing else it might bring the other problems to the forefront.

Has anyone on here ever done a valve assembly replacement if it comes to that? Does the tranny still have to be pulled, or can it be done while in the rig?

Thanks again for all the help guys- it's appreciated.
Click to expand...

Just make sure the level is correct first. Truck needs to be running in park and the fill plug on the right side of the trans should have fluid running out it when the level is correct.
 
D

discostew

Well-known member
Sep 14, 2010
7,735
1,026
Northern Illinois
Naegling said:
Yeah, I've never felt the rear end biting like it was locked. I think I will try the flush first; that seems the cheapest route. If nothing else it might bring the other problems to the forefront.

Has anyone on here ever done a valve assembly replacement if it comes to that? Does the tranny still have to be pulled, or can it be done while in the rig?

Thanks again for all the help guys- it's appreciated.
Click to expand...

That can be done in the truck but its an expensive repair that may or may not fix your problem. Look for the threads about a guy named Drews transmission problems.

The first issue you will have is the fact that the Trans ECU is the valve body. So it will have to be reprogrammed once it's installed. Jymmie says he's been able to program a used trans to work in a different truck. I have never tried it but totally believe Jimmie if he said he did it.
 
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Naegling

Member
Jul 31, 2016
9
0
Oregon
Outland seems like a really good shop, and I bloody hate PDX. I would avoid it at all costs if possible, lol. I'm just not sure what they have for diagnostics. Seems like a pretty quality place. I know a number of people who have bought from them and they are all happy customers.
 
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