Mileage on RRC?

[ClassicRover21]

I wonder why you are getting such better mileage than me with the same car?

Lifts, stuff like that, they may have a pretty dramatic effect on mileage, due to aerodynamics.
Look at how removing just the front air dam changes mileage.
The aerodynamics on a RRC are hideous. Ever spring some sort of leak on the underside and watch how the drops go off the back of the car then climb up the rear onto the rear hatch and glass? The airflow is going up the back of the car, it's really bad. But there is not much to do about that.

I wonder what I CAN do to maybe get another 2-3mpg...ideas?

If I were trying to squeeze out every last mpg possible, I'd try:

1) synthetics in the crankcase, transmission, front/rear/center differentials

2) if it hasn't been done recently, a full tune-up of the engine

3) run higher tire pressures on pavement for less rolling resistance

 

[p m]

I wonder why you are getting such better mileage than me with the same car?

Lifts, stuff like that, they may have a pretty dramatic effect on mileage, due to aerodynamics.
Look at how removing just the front air dam changes mileage.
The aerodynamics on a RRC are hideous. Ever spring some sort of leak on the underside and watch how the drops go off the back of the car then climb up the rear onto the rear hatch and glass? The airflow is going up the back of the car, it's really bad. But there is not much to do about that.

I wonder what I CAN do to maybe get another 2-3mpg...ideas?

Actually, the aerodynamics of a RRC isn't that bad. The things you mentioned are sure indicators of a poor airflow, but they are no worse than most station wagons'. For that matter, a D1 is worse.
I never removed the airdam from the LWB - removing it could potentially cost about half of a mpg. Roof rack makes an excellent air anchor - KVT long rack cost at least 2 mpg at 80mph. Even a small BP half-rack I've had for a while on the D1 cost about 1.5 mpg.

You can squeeze an mpg or two out of a Classic - check your tire pressures and sizes, make sure your VC in the t-case isn't seized, and play a bit with combination of gas octane rating and ignition timing. From the seeming lack of low-end torque on my LWB, and plenty of power around 3000 rpm, I think it's timed a couple of degrees earlier than normal.

 

[TN-LR3]

My 92' has a worn 3.9 with 200k and a worn trans also, with my arb bull bar and 245/75/r16 I was getting about 10-12 in the city A free flowing exhaust helped a little bit when I first got it. I drive it about 10 miles a month now, if even that so It rarely gets filled up.
My DD is a dodge 2500 CTD, it gets about 16-18mpg in the city and almost 25mpg highway if driven right. Plus I could tow the RRC and get better MPG than driving it.

 

[ray96disco]

and play a bit with combination of gas octane rating and ignition timing. From the seeming lack of low-end torque on my LWB, and plenty of power around 3000 rpm, I think it's timed a couple of degrees earlier than normal.

Peter, where have you set you're timing? I hadn't thought about advancing it. How much did it help? What octane has worked for you? I've just always run the 93 octane.

I did take my air dam off and haven't noticed a drop in mpg around town but it's about 1 mpg less on the highway typically running around 70-75 mph.

It also doesn't help that I haul a lot of tools, spare parts, equipment and crap with me. Added weight's a killer on mileage. Empty them out if you can.

I always meant to be green. Really. But I have this addiction to Rovers.

Thanks, Ray

 

[p m]

I am not sure - I've never checked the timing on the LWB; if I don't forget, I'll break out the timing light and check it tonight or tomorrow.
My LWB is not an off-roader; were I to take it to some slow trail, I would've retarded the timing because of its present off-idle performance. I only use 91-93 octane gas.
It does have a new exhaust including cats, that might be worth about a mpg. Stock-size BFG A/Ts, 35/42 psi front/rear.