Nav Install

D

D Chapman

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Start be disconnecting the battery, of course.
 

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D Chapman

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The front dash is held together by a bunch of shitty clips. They suck. Might be a good idea to have a few extra on hand.

Simply pull the dash apart. The head unit and other systems are held into the dash with Phillips-head-screws.
 

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D Chapman

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I started by removing one seat in the rear. I later removed both rear seat as it was just so much easier. I think if I were to ever do this again, I'd remove the carpet, too. The carpet was a PITA to work around.
 

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D Chapman

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In order to fit the Kenwood controller, I had to trim a piece of the foam tool tray incert. I just used my knife.
 

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D Chapman

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This is the following information for the HI LINE radio. The low line radio will differ.
The radio has three wiring harnesses on the back.
1) AV inputs
2) power and CAN crap
3) Fiber optic MOST cables

There is also the antenna.

The pin outs on connector 1 are (connector C1225):
1 - not used
2 - not used
3 - Phone + output
4 - not used
5 - Phone -
6 - Aux Screen
7 - Right Aux jack input
8 - Left Aux jack input
9 - not used
10 - not used
11 - not used
12 - ground

The pinouts on connector 2 are (connector C1354):
1 - Ground
2 - Not used
3 - Not used
4 - Not used
5 - Not used
6 - Not used
7 - Steering wheel switch ground
8 - Infotaninment relay switch Output
9 - CAN + Input
10 - CAN - Output
11 - Battery Voltage
12 - Antenna power
13 - Not used
14 - Not used
15 - Not used
16 - Not used
17 - Not used
18 - Steering wheel switch reference voltage

The entire drawing can be seen here
 

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D Chapman

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Under the passenger seat is the stock power amp. What a hunk of shit. 300Watts my ass....

Anyway, because the Hi-Line radio uses fiber optic, we don't have a choice in leaving the stock amp in place. Basically, the stock amp is now going to be a Line Level Converter. To my knowledge, at this time, no one make a converter box to translate the fiber optic signal into a line level input. For any amp you ever plan to install, you either need pre-amp outputs from the radio its self, or you need line level outputs.

The only thing we're interested in on the stock amp is the green wiring harness. The green wiring harness is the speaker outputs.
GREEN is +
GREEN with a WHITE stripe is -

ALL THE FUCKING WIRES ARE THE SAME COLOR. Awesome, huh!?!? So, in order to figure out WTF goes where, you need a battery. I like a 9v. If you touch the batter to a + and the correct - you will get a "pop" in the speaker. This will tell you what wires go where. MARK THEM CLEARLY.
 

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D

D Chapman

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You'll end up with a hacked wiring harness. :ack:

But DO NOT toss the connector. You need it.

The pinout on the connector was pretty simple. Top was +, bottom was -. What you need to do now is connect your line level wires. You can use any of the wires in this harness for your line level outs. Basically, the green harness will feed your amp, or in this case, your AV controller.
 

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D

D Chapman

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If you know anything about car audio, you're probably saying "how the fuck can he send an amplified signal to the AV controller which has a build-in amp?". Well, that's easy, in this case.

The Kenwood KOS-V1000 has a Line Level Input controller. Basically, you send a Left and Right channel to the AV Controller from the amp, then turn the signal down with a knob. I think the stock amp is 6x50w peak, or some shit. With the new Kenwood unit, you turn that signal back to ~5watts or so, or until your music starts sounding like shit.

If your amp does not have this feature, you will need a Speaker Level to Line Level converter box made by MTX. It's $179.00.
 
D

D Chapman

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I don't have a pic of the iPod installed, but here is the connector. The iPod will sit in a cradle in the cubbie lid. All the iPod functions will be controlled on the touch screen.

The iPod controll box is also mounted in the rear of the vehicle out of the way.
 

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D Chapman

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The Bluetooth was the easiest to install. It just plugs directly into the AV controller.

......a little note here. The iPod controller is connected via a Pass-Through feature on the Bluetooth control box. Not all iPod control boxes are able to do this, that is why Tami selected the one she did.
 

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D Chapman

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The Nav part of the system was pretty easy. The antenna wire was ran out of the roof at a rubber sock located inside the rear hatch door jam.
 

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D Chapman

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The Nav control box was mounted beside the Bluetooth and iPod controllers.
 

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D Chapman

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It starts to get messy.
 

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D Chapman

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I got lazy, and tired, and stopped taking pictures for a while. But a few key notes are

1) The steering wheel control wire connects to the Slate/black wire in wiring harness #2 at the rear of the stock radio
2) The illumi wire connects at the headlight switch wiring harness. I think it was the wire in slot #12. It was a red wire with a stripe (sorry, can't remember the colors)
 
D

D Chapman

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To fit the screen, part of the dash had to be cut.
 

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D Chapman

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The screen is a tight fit. It looks nice when install is complete.
 

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D Chapman

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After everything was wired up, screwed down, tucked in, and finished up, the rear compartment looked like this.
 

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D Chapman

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The screen all fitted and the dash back together.
 

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D Chapman

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The cell phone microphone is located on the A-piler. The sound from the cell phone is played through the factory speakers. You can choose the speaker you want to listen from via the touch screen.
 

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