Need Help Asap!!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter Alabama Rover
- Start date
i had to replace the crankshaft position sensor, but before i did it would stall, and then i would have to wait about 30 minutes before it would restart.
Well I replaced the filter, the one it had on it was really clogged up. I tried to blow through it and I was not able to. So, I drove it around for about ten minutes after changing the filter and brought it back home and turned it off and then tried to restart it and it was doing the same thing. So I am back to square one. Would you say the next logical thing would be to swap out the relay with a new one? I am just trying to do this in as simple a way as possible. If anyone else thinks I should try something else first then please speak up. This is my first rover so I am learning everyday.
Thanks for all your advice.
Thanks for all your advice.
Confirm you are gettin gpower to the pump via a testlight or meter. If you are getting b+ power at the pump, and its not running....There you are.
First I need to get the cover off, the screws that are hholding it in are rusted pretty bad and only one of them would move. I have them soaking in wd-40 right now(only thing I had on hand). I am assuming that I should be looking for at least 12 volts at the pump. Is this correct?
Those screws go into plastic fittings. {Posidrive will help on all rover phillips}
12v yes. you can make a test light out of the rear cargo light if need be.
12v yes. you can make a test light out of the rear cargo light if need be.
I would have a plan-when the no start occurs, you've confirmed that the engine will crank but not start. Good. Now let's ck for spark- gently pull a wire off of a front plug so you have a long wire. Bring a screw driver that you can insert into the open end of the wire and place the metal shank near something metal like the intake plenum. (Somewhere where you could see a spark jump from the screwdriver to ground.) So that's a yes or no.
Next, unscrew the cover off the fuel rail nipple and, keeping in mind this is supposed to be under pressure, depress the schraeder and see if fuel comes out under pressure.
Yes or no.
I'd like to suggest that the restricted fuel pressure overheated the electrical connector at the pump and it will break contact at certain temp/load conditions. If the there is no fuel pressure, pull up the rear carpet and unscrew the round access panel in the floor over the fuel pump module and disconnect the electrical connector. What do you see?
Next, unscrew the cover off the fuel rail nipple and, keeping in mind this is supposed to be under pressure, depress the schraeder and see if fuel comes out under pressure.
Yes or no.
I'd like to suggest that the restricted fuel pressure overheated the electrical connector at the pump and it will break contact at certain temp/load conditions. If the there is no fuel pressure, pull up the rear carpet and unscrew the round access panel in the floor over the fuel pump module and disconnect the electrical connector. What do you see?
I will do what you are saying. Just have to get the screws out. They are rusted pretty good and only one would move when I tried them, so I soaked them with wd-40 last night.
The only thing wd 40 is good for is removing the sticky shit leftover from tape..Alabama Rover said:
Use what was suggested.
try vice grips or a striped screw remover
I will when I get some, Did not want to leave the house last night to go and get some (30 miles+ round trip to nearest open parts store or anywhere else that would have it) so I used what I had on hand, figured it wouldn't hurt.
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If its that far to a parts store I wouldn't make the trip either. Keep an eye out for pb blaster in your travels. good luck!
Thanks, I will keep this thread updated as to what I come across, so if anyone else has a similar problem it might can help them.
I had a fuel pump that pulled this trick a few times - pump wouldn't spin, leave the truck and come back an hour later (or overnight) and it started - did this about 3-4 times in a week and then it completely died. Thought it was a fluke, but then it happened on my wifes car a couple years later, but on hers the no-start conditions (accompanied by no pump running noise) happened a month apart initially, then a couple times in a few days so I replaced the pump about 6 months ago and all is well. My 2 cents....
Steve
Steve
I have had that problem many times but have done nothing about it. Dont get wrong, I take care of my rig, but this problem is something I read about years ago. It is just the computer getting confused. The next time it happens, turn the key on, put it in drive and then back to park. Give it alittle bump when it goes into park. As these things get old, they get out of adjustment. There is a safety on the shifter so you dont start it in gear. Is this the problem???? I dont know. In fact, it seems like the computer would not let the engine turn over at all instead of turning over and not getting fuel or fire but mine always starts.
The next time it happens, dont panic. Just play with the shifter, turn the key on and off a couple times, open and close the door a couple times and just take a 2 min. break with everything turned off and you outside the rig with the doors closed. Get back in and close the door like you would normally do. It will start for you. Mine has never let me down for more then 2-3 min.s. It has been doing it for 3 years. Sometimes twice in one day and sometimes it will go months. Currently, its been about 6 months since it has done it.
Yea, I know. I was not much help, just trying to offer alittle piece of mind.
On another note. The crank sensor is the only part of the entire freaking truck that will not throw a code when it goes out. Just alittle FYI.
I noticed you are in Heflin, I am in Alabaster, just alittle west of you. If you ever want to wheel my area, just let me know. I assume you have been to MMORV since its in your backyard?
The next time it happens, dont panic. Just play with the shifter, turn the key on and off a couple times, open and close the door a couple times and just take a 2 min. break with everything turned off and you outside the rig with the doors closed. Get back in and close the door like you would normally do. It will start for you. Mine has never let me down for more then 2-3 min.s. It has been doing it for 3 years. Sometimes twice in one day and sometimes it will go months. Currently, its been about 6 months since it has done it.
Yea, I know. I was not much help, just trying to offer alittle piece of mind.
On another note. The crank sensor is the only part of the entire freaking truck that will not throw a code when it goes out. Just alittle FYI.
I noticed you are in Heflin, I am in Alabaster, just alittle west of you. If you ever want to wheel my area, just let me know. I assume you have been to MMORV since its in your backyard?
No I have never been to MMORV or heard of it, unless that is the off road park that is just off of highway 9 going towards lineville. If that is it I have seen it but not been to it. Would love to wheel with you sometime. We will have to get together.
B
barefoot
Guest
At least it's not a mazda rotary.
The second generation RX-7s had a problem with the cold idle setting on the ecu. If you started one with a few miles on it, drove it a few feet, and killed it, it would sometimes flood. "you may think big deal it's flooded" Flooding a rotary would wash the oil off the inside of the engine and with worn rotor tips it would not make enough compression to start."EVER" The solution is to pour a bit of automatic transmission fluid in the top 2 spark plug holes, replace the plugs and it would start and smoke terribly till the tranny fluid burned off. It was something I had to plan my day around for a while. :banghead: Nothing you could predict, and never when you weren't already running late.
I know it doesn't help you out any, but you may someday come upon a second generation RX-7 for sale really cheap that won't start and you'll be able to drive it home.
You're not smelling gas when it runs poorly a short while and dies are you?
Neil
The second generation RX-7s had a problem with the cold idle setting on the ecu. If you started one with a few miles on it, drove it a few feet, and killed it, it would sometimes flood. "you may think big deal it's flooded" Flooding a rotary would wash the oil off the inside of the engine and with worn rotor tips it would not make enough compression to start."EVER" The solution is to pour a bit of automatic transmission fluid in the top 2 spark plug holes, replace the plugs and it would start and smoke terribly till the tranny fluid burned off. It was something I had to plan my day around for a while. :banghead: Nothing you could predict, and never when you weren't already running late.
I know it doesn't help you out any, but you may someday come upon a second generation RX-7 for sale really cheap that won't start and you'll be able to drive it home.
You're not smelling gas when it runs poorly a short while and dies are you?
Neil
why hasn't anyone suggested that the fuel cutoff switch may be operating exactly as it should? The cutoff switch shuts off the fuel if he is stopping too fast. When I hit a bump and shut off the ignition too soon after, my cutoff switch shuts it down until I reset it... Just a thought, some people really drive hard and someone who stops quickly will set off the switch every time...try pressing that little button on the firewall next time.