I have a 00' series 2 with ACE. The amber light is on, on the dash. I had it looked at and was told the ecu has a fault in the ecu itself. I am wondering if it is a unplug and install a new/used one in its place, with out reprogramming anything else. Any help would be great. If it is just unplug and replug, I will be looking for a new/used ACE ecu.
Need help with ACE system
- Thread starter djsalltrac
- Start date
I just ripped the ACE system out of my D2 ('99). I forgot about the ACE ECU. I will pull it out this afternoon.
If you find out for sure that you need an ACE ECU let me know.
BTW, I also have an ACE pump, valve block and the ram-arms. The front ram arm has a questionable rubber bushing.
If you find out for sure that you need an ACE ECU let me know.
BTW, I also have an ACE pump, valve block and the ram-arms. The front ram arm has a questionable rubber bushing.
dealer says so or someone with a LR code reader? a regular reader wont tell you anything....
Might flush it, that seems to help and is on the maintenance interval list. It is great on a lifted truck.
Might flush it, that seems to help and is on the maintenance interval list. It is great on a lifted truck.
there were 3 faults hydraulic pressure too high, Fault with the residual pressure valve, and ECU Fault code 37 - contact testbook help desk. Once in a while the light will be off when I start the truck and then after a few seconds, it will come on and stay on for several weeks at a time before going off for a few seconds. Should also note that the truck has 159600 miles on it and this is the first problem I have had with the ACE system.
I think that can be fixed by replacing the line from the pump to the valve block. There is a "soft" section in that line and inside of that is the valve, IIRC.
ptschram
Well-known member
It might be worth checking to see if there might be an open recall on this truck. Some of the ACE trucks had problems with a bad valve in the pipe from the pump to the valve block (IIRC).
I've seen one where this was the problem, several with horrible corrosion at the valve block, and two pumps, otherwise, it's a fairly reliable system-but, I've never seen a need for it.
I've seen one where this was the problem, several with horrible corrosion at the valve block, and two pumps, otherwise, it's a fairly reliable system-but, I've never seen a need for it.
I think the only place to source those lines is from LR. I don't know about changing that one out, I had a line changed out on mine a few years ago, but it was one of the rear lines (or both, IIRC).
IIRC, that soft/hard line unit comes in two pieces (with a joint seal) as a replacement because those lines are put on before the body goes on. In order to get the original out, you'll have to snip it in at least one spot.
For removal, I found it easy to snip the lines (4) right behind the front wheel and before the bend in the back (2). I used some aviation-class snippers.
You'll also want to take your fan out for easy access to the pump and the lines running along the front x-member.
You'll need Testbook (or the like) for the bleed after the new line(s) are installed.
IIRC, that soft/hard line unit comes in two pieces (with a joint seal) as a replacement because those lines are put on before the body goes on. In order to get the original out, you'll have to snip it in at least one spot.
For removal, I found it easy to snip the lines (4) right behind the front wheel and before the bend in the back (2). I used some aviation-class snippers.
You'll also want to take your fan out for easy access to the pump and the lines running along the front x-member.
You'll need Testbook (or the like) for the bleed after the new line(s) are installed.
ptschram
Well-known member
I have used a tubing cuter to remove the hard lines, and compression fittings to reattach them.
I have not had a problem bleeding the system without the computer.
I have not had a problem bleeding the system without the computer.