New cam startup question

[Welcome to Hell A]

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About to start the engine for the first time with the new cam installed. It has been installed for a while now and I am just trying to find an adaptor for the oil pressure tester to the 1/2" 20tpi UNF threads for the oil pressure sender in the timing cover. I'm starting to get impatient.

D&D said I *need* to get an oil pressure tester to check the pressure while circulating the oil through the engine before startup. Okay, I tried. D&D also said the engine needs to have 30-40psi of oil pressure while cranking the engine over for 2 full minutes (no fuel supply, no spark plugs, etc).

My questions...to anybody that's put a new cam in, did you circulate the oil for a full 2 minutes before startup, and did you use an oil pressure gauge? Also, did you then wait overnight for the cavitated oil to settle before startup?

Has anybody done a startup without the oil pressure gauge? I primed it pretty damn good I think.

Options?

 

[ptschram]

First off, how do you pre-oil an engine where the oil pump is run by the crankshaft?

I don't think you'd want to crank the engine for two minutes without the engine running. Crower (you said D&D so I'm assuming it's a Crower) is very clear about the potential damage done by valve spring pressure against the cam with the engine not running and at low engine speeds. Same thing with the instructions to fire it up and run it at 2K RPM for half an hour.

I have never bothered to "Circulate" oil prior to start-up. I'd like to hear how D&D expects one to do so with a crank-driven oil pump.

 

[robertf]

I filled it up with rotella 10w30 based on comp cam's recommendation as a break in oil (even though I was putting int a crower cam) I pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked for a minute or two until I had pressure, held the engine at 2500 rpms for 20 minutes, changed the oil and its fine. That was over 20k ago. I already had an electric gauge wired in.

 

[ptschram]

If you're that concerned about it, put the front cover on without a gasket and leave the cam chain off. Crank it to get oil everywhere.

Tear it apart and reassemble it correctly.

I'd be worried about doing more damage during the two minutes of cranking at low speeds than I would be of not pre-oiling.

 

[Welcome to Hell A]

That's kind of what I was thinking, PT.

I was pretty concerned, only because of all teh interweb searches turning up warnings of people ruining their cams in the first few seconds/minutes of use. I am getting past the concerned part from the impatience. All I needed was a little prodding, so thanks. I am going to go for it.


As soon as it stops raining.

Thanks.

 

[D.WILLIS]

if you used the cam lube provided with the cam no problems

 

[RVRSRVC]

I crank my rebuilt/new engines without spark plugs or fuel pump until the oil pressure light goes out, after pre-filling the oil filter. Then, plugs and fuel and run them at 2k for around 1/2 hour.
Change the oil and filter to remove the assembly lube and away we go!

 

[antichrist]

I crank my rebuilt/new engines without spark plugs or fuel pump until the oil pressure light goes out, after pre-filling the oil filter.

Depending on where the oil light switch is, that may not be enough. For instance, when I used to rebuild turbos I always suggested customers install their pressure sensor at the turbo oil inlet.

Anyway, I always liberally use engine assembly grease on cams, rod and main bearings, places like that.

 

[ptschram]

I crank my rebuilt/new engines without spark plugs or fuel pump until the oil pressure light goes out, after pre-filling the oil filter.

How would this be of benefit? If you had everything hooked up, you'd be doing better. GEMS engines seem to fire within a few degrees of crank rotation. If the oil pump is primed, you've got oil pressure almost immediately and for the split second where you don't, that's what assembly lube is for!

I use Lubriplate assembly lube on the cam and then pour 90 wt over everything that's exposed. In 30 years, never had a problem that wasn't due to cam or block problems.

 

[antichrist]

I use Lubriplate assembly lube on the cam and then pour 90 wt over everything that's exposed.

That's it, comes in nice large sizes. Though I use STP on the pistons and such. Nice and sticky and hangs around if it will be a while before I start the engine.

 

[pjkbrit]

How would this be of benefit? If you had everything hooked up, you'd be doing better. GEMS engines seem to fire within a few degrees of crank rotation. If the oil pump is primed, you've got oil pressure almost immediately and for the split second where you don't, that's what assembly lube is for!

I use Lubriplate assembly lube on the cam and then pour 90 wt over everything that's exposed. In 30 years, never had a problem that wasn't due to cam or block problems.

X2...this is the only way to run in a new cam...2000rpm for 20 mins from a cold start may sound cruel...but any other method risks serious damage to the cam lobes from valve spring pressure with your new cam & tappets.

 

[ptschram]

That's it, comes in nice large sizes. Though I use STP on the pistons and such. Nice and sticky and hangs around if it will be a while before I start the engine.

LOL, I've been buying 90 wt in five-gallon buckets since I've owned a Rover. I have lots of it around and it gets used for an awful lot. Also, it is an EP lubricant.

In the past, Crower would provide a screw-top tube of assembly lube, now, they seem to be sending a little blister-pack that in now way provides enough for me to be comfortable on initial start-up.

I am so uncomfortable during cam break-in! Anxiety! Stress! Oh my!

 

[Welcome to Hell A]

They sent a small tube of it with the cam. It was more than enough to coat it liberally and other parts as well.

Since there was no simple adapter for the oil pressure tester and it seemed I was overly concerned, I skipped that part.

I compromised a little. Ran the starter for about 30 seconds with no spark or fuel, then did the 20 min at 2k rpm. It runs great.

Thanks for the advice, as always.

 

[antichrist]

Actually I meant the Lubriplate assembly grease. 10oz or something rather than the little tiny tubes I see places.

 

[ptschram]

Actually I meant the Lubriplate assembly grease. 10oz or something rather than the little tiny tubes I see places.

It's available from 1.5 oz to 55-gallon drums. When I worked on airplanes, my boss was a Lubriplate nut! He had five gallon pails of almost every variation and was adamant about using the right lube for the right application.

 

[robertf]

If you're that concerned about it, put the front cover on without a gasket and leave the cam chain off. Crank it to get oil everywhere.

bad idea, these are inteference engines

 

[ptschram]

bad idea, these are inteference engines

OK, fair enough, remove the rocker shafts and crank it over. You don't have to remove the cam chain in this case.

 

[jrw9383]

Any validity to the dangers of revving and running the motor in neutral or park for extended periods damaging the transmission?

Tks-
Joseph

 

[rover4x4]

Any validity to the dangers of revving and running the motor in neutral or park for extended periods damaging the transmission?

Tks-
Joseph

Any thoughts from the D-web on this?

 

[rover4x4]

bump