new to board - thinking about a Discovery

[shore2mntsNJ]

Hi All, Just joined the website. I am in the market for a 4x4 and the Discovery is on the list. I have been trying to find info on all of them from the beginning right up to LR4. I like the older models and have read that they have engine issues. That in itself is not an issue, long blocks are available and have the ability to make the switch. My question there is whether the rest of the vehicle is worth a new engine. Any thoughts on older vs newer and general condition of older models especially rust and body panels.
Thanks

 

[kennith]

Financially, it's not worth replacing an engine, but that's the case with most vehicles.

There's nothing wrong with the engines minus production hiccups that occurred in certain years.

They just require more preventative maintenance than other units with which you might be more familiar. If you treat them properly (Read: How to properly lube and then beat the hell out of a prostitute.) you won't have any issues.

That said... You're going to be buying a used vehicle. All of that maintenance that's so important will have been either performed or ignored by previous owners.

A Land Rover is a vehicle best purchased with a complete service history. Now, that's not always possible, so it's important to research until you know a few Rover-specific signs of neglect or previous failure.

I'll point out a few things soon. Others may chime in with notes on various years. This is something that can actually be searched on the forum (with real results), as well.

Just search for any word combinations that have to do with buying a new or used Discovery. A number of very helpful threads are available from various points in history. Even older threads are good in this regard.

Cheers,

Kennith

 

[roverMc]

Just send your money to me and I can repair mine.

 

[KBW7]

Find a dirt cheap 2003 or 2004 with a blown engine and put in a corrected replacement. Best way to go. Then keep up to date with the maintenance and it's a great buy. I bought mine for 9500 four years ago or so. Got almost four years out of the engine before the knocking got too bad to deal with (I was in the bad vin range). Replaced the engine myself with a corrected motor and upgraded crankshaft for less than I bought it originally. It runs incredibly well. Feel like with how long this'll now last it was most definitely worth it. If I had to start over I'd definitely buy one in great shape everywhere but the engine for a couple grand and have an easy mind knowing I have a brand new engine.

I must say though I have a two mile commute to work. Gas mileage is definitely extremely low priority for me unlike some. These definitely require premium and get horrendous mileage. I fill up every two or three weeks so it's no big deal to me.

 

[shore2mntsNJ]

Thanks Kennith and KBWZ, I was thinking your route KBWZ. Did you replace the engine yourself? New? Remanufactured? Long block or crate engine? I have found several sites selling long blocks but none selling a crate engine.

 

[seventyfive]

03/04's are terrible. every one ive seen, including my 03, rots quicker than 99/02's.

people say '04's due to the cdl, who cares. find a 99-01, then add a linkage.

so even if you get a great deal on an 03/04 your frame will look like this before you know it.

 

[Tugela]

Depending on your budget you might consider looking for a Rover that spent its life on the west coast/southwest/climate that doesn't encourage rust. I'm partial to the Discovery 1 (years 1996-1999) and Range Rover Classic because the mechanical and electric components are generally (although not always) simpler than on the Discovery 2. You can search this forum and find tons of discussion around D1 vs D2, each has advantages and you can choose the tradeoffs that match what you want out of the truck. There are great resources for used parts and know-how on this site. Rover ownership can bring lots of enjoyment and lots of frustration. As long as you're prepared for the frustration you can get a lot of enjoyment out of it.

 

[pjkbrit]

03/04's are terrible. every one ive seen, including my 03, rots quicker than 99/02's.

people say '04's due to the cdl, who cares. find a 99-01, then add a linkage.

so even if you get a great deal on an 03/04 your frame will look like this before you know it.

x2......sadly you have to avoid a rust belt car....they thinned the chassis to save weight on the 03s and 04s and despite over maintaining my 04 I STILL am fighting the rust worm on this car.....shame...it's really a fantastic Truck in soi many other ways....typically British....like me!

 

[ptschram]

If you want adventure, buy a Rover.

If you need transportation, buy a Toyota.

 

[discostew]

Disco 1 is the way to go . Its the Disco 2 that has the engine problems . You cant keep coolant in a Disco2 . I would rather leak a little oil than a little coolant . And make sure you have something else to drive . If this is going to be your daily driver you may want to rethink this.

 

[MM3846]

And make sure you have something else to drive . If this is going to be your daily driver you may want to rethink this.

eh. anything can be a DD as long as you put the work into it to keep it running. im 6 months into a D1 and its been every bit reliable. though, i've had to borrow a car twice now bc of problems that were not a fault of the truck... first time i blew a hard brake line and ordered new lines and hoses... got sent the wrong hoses and had to argue w the vendor about returning them. and now i'm replacing the intake manifold bc whoever worked on this thing last decided JB weld was a good alternative to a helicoil. YMMV, i guess.

 

[shore2mntsNJ]

This is all good. my original thoughts were a Disco1. It will be my play car/project car. I do a lot of fly fishing here both on the beach and in the mountains in the north east. I have been a fan of british cars since I owned a 67 MGB-GT a long time ago. Ask my mom about the time I rebuilt the engine in her kitchen!

All that being said does the Disco 1 body and chassis hold up well? Last thing I want to try and work with is a rust bucket. Am I correct in believing that the D1 was available here 1994-1998? And are any of those years more desirable than any other?

 

[MM3846]

D1s have thicker frames, but have been around longer so they have had more time to collect rust. 94-95 runs uses a distributer and coil pack and is OBD1, 96-99 is GEMS ignition coil on pack OBD2. few other difference here and there.

 

[pjkbrit]

This is all good. my original thoughts were a Disco1. It will be my play car/project car. I do a lot of fly fishing here both on the beach and in the mountains in the north east. I have been a fan of british cars since I owned a 67 MGB-GT a long time ago. Ask my mom about the time I rebuilt the engine in her kitchen!

All that being said does the Disco 1 body and chassis hold up well? Last thing I want to try and work with is a rust bucket. Am I correct in believing that the D1 was available here 1994-1998? And are any of those years more desirable than any other?

BUT....Disco 1 bodyshell DOES rust out way more than the Disco 2 particularly the inside panels, rear door valances and around the trunk floor....at least with the chassis on a D2 you can see the damage and assess whether to buy or not....The Disco 2 is just as DIY friendly as the Disco 1 but is a FAR better driver IMHO....even with the 4.0 motor. I have had both vehicles.
If I was you I would only really consider an 04....last of the line but get from the SOUTH and just look after it. I still have mine...no plans to sell....it's just too damn useful!

 

[CoveWheeler]

This is all good. my original thoughts were a Disco1. It will be my play car/project car. I do a lot of fly fishing here both on the beach and in the mountains in the north east. I have been a fan of british cars since I owned a 67 MGB-GT a long time ago. Ask my mom about the time I rebuilt the engine in her kitchen!

All that being said does the Disco 1 body and chassis hold up well? Last thing I want to try and work with is a rust bucket. Am I correct in believing that the D1 was available here 1994-1998? And are any of those years more desirable than any other?

I have a 98 D1 and it's use is very similar to yours. It came from the midwest and is very solid. Headgaskets were done prior to me buying (with documentation) and all other maintenance and needed wrenching I do myself without much issues. It's not a daily driver but I drive it a lot more than I need to because it's so damn cool!

 

[puravidasurf]

Depending on your budget you might consider looking for a Rover that spent its life on the west coast/southwest/climate that doesn't encourage rust. I'm partial to the Discovery 1 (years 1996-1999) and Range Rover Classic because the mechanical and electric components are generally (although not always) simpler than on the Discovery 2. You can search this forum and find tons of discussion around D1 vs D2, each has advantages and you can choose the tradeoffs that match what you want out of the truck. There are great resources for used parts and know-how on this site. Rover ownership can bring lots of enjoyment and lots of frustration. As long as you're prepared for the frustration you can get a lot of enjoyment out of it.

My 99 D2 was just purchased for a fun project/camping machine a few months back. Spent it's whole life in the Southwest, so no rust and it's solid as a rock. That being said, you're right about the mechanical and electrical components. No history on maintenance, and because I had to replace the front driveshaft (which was already a serviceable unit) within the first few weeks of ownership, I imagine they weren't johnny on the spot about care. I've got a ticking in the engine that I've been chasing for the last month or so, just finished replacing a front window regulator/motor, leaks oil like a sieve, cabin lights get stuck on occasionally, turn signal decides not to work every 3-4 uses, and it has a general disregard for my sanity and knuckle skin.

However, I am hooked and wouldn't have it any other way.

 

[discostew]

I agree 100 % with the staement that Disco 1 body structure will rust out more than a Disco 2 . They seem to rust from the inside out . But the way the truck is built really goes back to the heritage of the brand . Its built like a 1 ton truck by American standards (the axle only turns , it bears no weight ) . It has military style swivel housings and real truck bearings . The frt hub and bearing for a Disco 2 looks the same as one out of a Buick .

 

[riceybean]

99 d2

 

[shore2mntsNJ]

I agree 100 % with the staement that Disco 1 body structure will rust out more than a Disco 2 . They seem to rust from the inside out . But the way the truck is built really goes back to the heritage of the brand . Its built like a 1 ton truck by American standards (the axle only turns , it bears no weight ) . It has military style swivel housings and real truck bearings . The frt hub and bearing for a Disco 2 looks the same as one out of a Buick .

I didn't see that statement the 1s rust out more than 2's. Could it be that they are just older? Where is the rust most likely to occur?

 

[discostew]

It starts around the rear door strikers . Right under them . Also look at the rubber seals around the rear windows for bumps under the seal . In the rear tail door sill area . Water leaks in at the top of the door (look for water stains on the 3rd stop lamp).