new to me classic

[paidtodrive]

I just got an 88 classic. Relatively unmolested. By now there has to be a pretty basic formula for building one up. I know everyone drives differently and in different locations, blah, blah, blah, but given certain guidelines I'd think it's pretty straightforward. Asking for opinions on a suspension setup for small lift, only slightly larger tires, want maximum suspension travel. Springs or spacers? lowered shock mounts or just longer shocks. Longer brake lines necessary? Would like not to have to replace driveshafts. Wheel spacers?

I will put a winch up front, and at least one locker. This is just a toy, not my driver. If there is a build up thread somewhere (there has to be on a vehicle this old) that'd be great, too.

Thanks

 

[pdxrovermech]

on my 88 i kept the stock springs for a more supple ride and added 2 inch spacers. then i went with the higher shock relocators and added longer shocks for more travel. i would have liked to have had longer brake lines but i've really never found them necessary for only a 2in lift. I was able to run 265/75s with only some minor rubbing.

 

[stu454]

I'm not saying "don't build it up" but I will say this: please proceed with care and discretion so as not to fuck up an unmolested '88.

 

[paidtodrive]

unmolested does not equal pristine in this case, but appreciate the sentiment. it's no collectors item.

 

[aliastel]

on my 88 i kept the stock springs for a more supple ride and added 2 inch spacers. then i went with the higher shock relocators and added longer shocks for more travel. i would have liked to have had longer brake lines but i've really never found them necessary for only a 2in lift. I was able to run 265/75s with only some minor rubbing.

Agree on keeping the stock springs with the load leveler. This suspension setup is what sets the Range Rover apart from the Discovery, and all others. Excellent articulation. Four Wheeler magazine ramped a stock Range Rover at 700 back in the day. Another way to keep it and run bigger tires is to take the rear springs and move them to the front with the D2 rubber isolators for a two inch lift, and the add some NRC 4304 police springs at the rear with a one inch spacer, for two inches there. With this setup you have flexy 180 lb. springs up front, and long 18 inch 170 lb springs in the rear. The Boge strut can support up to 1500 lbs if it's in good shape and acts as a pivot.

David

 

[pdxrovermech]

Agree on keeping the stock springs with the load leveler. This suspension setup is what sets the Range Rover apart from the Discovery, and all others. Excellent articulation. Four Wheeler magazine ramped a stock Range Rover at 700 back in the day. Another way to keep it and run bigger tires is to take the rear springs and move them to the front with the D2 rubber isolators for a two inch lift, and the add some NRC 4304 police springs at the rear with a one inch spacer, for two inches there. With this setup you have flexy 180 lb. springs up front, and long 18 inch 170 lb springs in the rear. The Boge strut can support up to 1500 lbs if it's in good shape and acts as a pivot.

David

we've done over 1k with open diffs and stock springs. the rear shock travel and trailing arm to frame bushings seem to be whats holding up the travel.

 

[aliastel]

we've done over 1k with open diffs and stock springs. the rear shock travel and trailing arm to frame bushings seem to be whats holding up the travel.

Yeah. I'd like to try some johnny-jointed trailing arms along with some nice long shocks and see just how well the stock suspension can flex. Of course tires are also an issue. Go too big and you kill the travel there too.