No codes. No check engine, and 3 SYSTEMS NOT READY!

[ninjzx998]

Interesting

Some import vehicles have known readiness issues. Many 1996-?98 Mitsubishi vehicles will have monitors that read "not ready" because setting the monitors requires very specific drive cycles (which can be found in their service information). Even so, these vehicles can be scanned for codes and the MIL light without regard to readiness status. On 1996 Subarus, turning the key off will clear all the readiness flags. The same thing happens on 1996 Volvo 850 Turbos. This means the vehicle has to be driven to reset all the readiness flags. On 1997 Toyota Tercel and Paseo models, the readiness flag for the EVAP monitor will never set, and no dealer fix is yet available. Other vehicles that often have a "not ready" condition for the EVAP and catalytic converter monitors include 1996-?98 Volvos, 1996-?98 Saabs, and 1996-?97 Nissan 2.0L 200SX models.

My M5 had a recall because the state testing equipment could not communicate, BMW had to reflash the ecu to come into line with state testing equipment.

 

[ninjzx998]

I am giving myself the idiot of the day award. I've had an Actron CP9135 for maybe 4 years that I use to read and clear codes. I just now realized that it has readiness info. I wasted about 5 trips to the inspection station for them to tell me not ready when I could have found that out in 20 seconds. I am a Dumbass.

That said I still need to research some real time logging systems as I want to see long term trim, load, loadx, maf flow, PW,ect, act and all the stuff I am used to seeing on my Mustang tuner software

 

[RoverDisco98]

Have someone take a good look at the ECU. I had replaces O2's, TPS and assorted other items before I discovered my "Not Ready" condition was the result of a faulty ECU, Found a use one ($200 vs $2000 new) and had the local dealer install and reset (Textbook needed). No more problems and better millage by 2 mpg.

 

[ninjzx998]

I may be looking at that option as I just tried the o2 drive cycle and took me a good 20+ miles and still did not qualify. Gonna try getting EVAP to work then either apply for an exemption or look into ECus. Another 2 mpg that would be very nice, I am very jealous of the 13 mpgers

 

[brian4d]

I just had the same problem. It took my 02 1,500 miles to reset. You have to perfrom highway driving 60+MPH for a centain period of time, and city driving (stop + go) for a certain period. My local LR dealer said their mechs know a certain route around greensboro, NC they could take in order for a reset. In NC if you keep the not ready notice signed by the mech. this serves as a document to show any cops that might be on your tail. Good luck all!

 

[lforgue8]

For D1 with advanced evap this is all i could find:

DRIVE CYCLE - ADVANCED EVAPS
1.​

​

​

Switch on ignition for 30 seconds.​

2.​

​

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Ensure that coolant temperature is less than 140​

?​

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F (30?C).​

3.​

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Start engine and allow to idle for 2 minutes.​

4.​

​

​

Perform 2 light accelerations (0 to 35 mph with
light pedal pressure).​

5.​

​

​

Perform 2 medium accelerations (0 to 45 mph
with moderate pedal pressure).​

6.​

​

​

Perform 2 hard accelerations (0 to 55 mph with
heavy pedal pressure).​

7.​

​

​

Cruise at 60 mph for 5 minutes.​

8.​

​

​

Cruise at 50 mph for 5 minutes.​

9.​

​

​

Cruise at 35 mph for 5 minutes.​

10.​

​

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Allow engine to idle for 2 minutes.​

11.​

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​

Connect TestBook and check for fault codes.

the procedure is different for D2:
​

⇒​

​

Drive cycle C:​

1​

​

​

Switch ignition on for 30 seconds.​

2​

​

​

Ensure engine coolant temperature is less than 60ｰC (140ｰF).​

3​

​

​

Start the engine and allow to idle for 2 minutes.​

4​

​

​

Perform 2 light accelerations (0 to 35 mph (0 to 60 km/h) with light pedal pressure).​

5​

​

​

Perform 2 medium accelerations (0 to 45 mph (0 to 70 km/h) with moderate pedal pressure).​

6​

​

​

Perform 2 hard accelerations (0 to 55 mph (0 to 90 km/h) with heavy pedal pressure).​

7​

​

​

Cruise at 60 mph (100 km/h) for 8 minutes.​

8​

​

​

Cruise at 50 mph (80 km/h) for 3 minutes.​

9​

​

​

Allow engine to idle for 3 minutes.​

10​

​

​

Connect TestBook and with the engine still running, check for fault codes.​

NOTE: The following areas have an associated readiness test which must be flagged as complete, before a problem
resolution can be verified:​

l​

​

​

catalytic converter fault;​

l​

​

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Evaporative loss system fault;​

l​

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HO2 sensor fault;​

l​

​

​

HO2 sensor heater fault.
When carrying out a drive cycle C to determine a fault in any of the above areas, select the readiness test icon to
verify that the test has been flagged as complete​

 

[ninjzx998]

Wow these drive cycle hokey pokey dances really make me wish I lived outside the city, somehow my fellow Massholes seem to disregard hazard lights on slow moving vehicles. I will give it a shot.

Anyone know if the order of things has to be precise of course the key on has to be first? I don't see why it should matter but hey it might just be part of the Landrover "Magic"

 

[agbuckle98]

Wow these drive cycle hokey pokey dances really make me wish I lived outside the city, somehow my fellow Massholes seem to disregard hazard lights on slow moving vehicles. I will give it a shot.

Anyone know if the order of things has to be precise of course the key on has to be first? I don't see why it should matter but hey it might just be part of the Landrover "Magic"

Run the drive cycle C, follow it as closely as you can, it doesn't have to be perfect. Not everything has to be in the correct order either, but try to stick as close as you can. My girlfriends' '98 D1 had a catalyst monitor that refused to reset, and running that drive cycle just once did the trick.

 

[agbuckle98]

I've also been told that heavy pedal pressure means fucking floor it, drive it like you hate it.

 

[ninjzx998]

I would imagine it is load based, although I guess throttle position could also be a part, I really never floor it with the supercharger but I may be forced to since partial throttle is not doing it. I know if it is load based then I am at least at 100 % more likely 120% load but it is worth another 20 mile trip.

 

[Durham_Disco]

Utah:

Sounds like all of these systems are linked together with a common logic component. Basically these won't become "ready" or "tested OK" until the ECU registers a few things:

A> The drive cycles have been completed (sounds like you have)
B> Engine coolant has never peaked to the optimum operating temperature (according to the ecu).

Having said that, the ecu would like to see the coolant come upto 185f before it will enable the full test on the O2 + Catalyst (downstream O2), and also the EVAP system test.

This sounds like you may have a dodgy coolant temp sensor, or more likely a thermostat. I would hook it to an OBDII computer that can display the ECUs display of the coolant temperature... Sensor may look okay to the ECU as far as connectivity etc, but maybe it is only saying it hits 100f.

... I go for an e-test tonight with my D2 @ 245,000km (fresh cam job), battery was disconnected for 2 weeks, no specific drive cycles have been completed as of yet. I have offroaded for hours, cruised the highway, and gone into town at low speed....just like you, it should be ok?

Hope this helps you out.

 

[lforgue8]

I've also been told that heavy pedal pressure means fucking floor it, drive it like you hate it.

YES FLOOR IT

AND ALSO THE LIST DOESNT HAVE TO BE DONE IN ORDER JUST AS LONG AS ALL ARE DONE. IT DOES SEEM TO BE A PAIN BUT ITS WHAT WE HAVE TO DO FOR EVERY CHECK ENGINE LIGHT AFTER REPAIR GOOD LUCK

 

[ninjzx998]

Well my free reinspect expired the day i got my Elm 327 connector. Turns out that my right rear o2 is dead, reading 0 volts. This is also causing my short and long term trims to max out on both banks! I disconnected it and it registers 1.2 volts. Amazingly I still get no CE light, this would have been an easy one with the oBD hookup or if the CE light actually came on or registered a code. Confirms another thread on rear o2 affecting fuel mixtures as well.