No power to fuel pump on 1996 D1

[Macro1]

Hi,

I just bought a 1996 Discovery from a friend of mine that is not getting power to the fuel pump. There is zero fuel pressure. It does turn over and I am getting spark.

The guy I bought it from (who also recommended me to this site), said he was on his way back home and stopped at a gas station, filled up with fuel and the car wouldn't start back up.

After some much reading about this on other threads, here is what I have done so far:

1. Replaced the fuel filter
2. Tested the fuel pump in another rover (both pumps are fully functional)
3. Replaced and tested the Multi-Function relay with another rover (both relays are fully functional)
4. Replaced and tested the shut-off relay.
5. Replaced and tested the ECU with another rover(again, both are fully functional).

I took the advice from previous posts by trying to chase down this electrical problem with a light and two long wires.

I have connected the light to the same ground that is mounted to the back drivers side quarter panel. I first tested the positive to the battery to make sure I had proper connection.

I then checked to see if there is power to the pump by placing the wire to the WHITE/PURPLE portion of the connector, and had the ignition key turned. NO POWER.

Following the wire I checked at the next terminal that is connected to the frame at the drivers rear wheel well. You can see with the following attachment there are burnt marks at the black ground and at the white/purple. I performed the same test at the white/purple and NO POWER.

Thinking the short may be in the connection, I cut the white/purple from the connector and performed the same test. NO POWER.

However, I do get power to the green wire that runs with the white/purple and the black ground when the ignition is turned on.

I have also tested the white/purple from the shut-off relay, and from the multi-purpose relay, both resulting with my light turning on.

I really think its a short in the electrical with the burn out in the connector. (FYI: I did not see any burnt marks on the connector to the fuel pump, but I guess it doesn't matter since I don't have power to that part of the connection!)

ANY THOUGHTS? This is my first rover and I am not sure what else to test. If anyone has some ideas or have known areas of shorting please let me know.

 

[lunchbox]

Check for power at and after the inertia switch. You do realize you'll only have power for a few secconds while it primes? The green wire is for the fuel guage. Check power before the relay. Check power at the plug for the harness above the exaust. You can also check power at the pump, inside the pickup. That connection can take a shit too.

 

[ptschram]

You do not have a "short", you have a bad connection somewhere in the circuit.

The easiest and probably best way to fix this on a 15 year-old Rover is to parallel the existing purple/white wire. This way you retain all of the safety functions but are not reliant upon the poor connections.

 

[Macro1]

Check for power at and after the inertia switch. You do realize you'll only have power for a few secconds while it primes? The green wire is for the fuel guage. Check power before the relay. Check power at the plug for the harness above the exaust. You can also check power at the pump, inside the pickup. That connection can take a shit too.

Yes, I realize there is only power for the first 5 seconds or so.

What inertia switch are you referring to?

 

[Macro1]

You do not have a "short", you have a bad connection somewhere in the circuit.

The easiest and probably best way to fix this on a 15 year-old Rover is to parallel the existing purple/white wire. This way you retain all of the safety functions but are not reliant upon the poor connections.

ptshram-

Do you mean run a new wire from the connection (or from the pump) all the way to the multi-function relay?

 

[ptschram]

ptshram-

Do you mean run a new wire from the connection (or from the pump) all the way to the multi-function relay?

Yes and no. Go to the last point in the circuit where you have power, parallel from there to the pump. Make sure to retain the inertia switch (it's on the bulkhead, between your washer bottle and the engine) so you retain the safety features.

It's not an uncommon fix for the older trucks as parts become harder to find.

 

[Macro1]

Thanks ptschram!

I will let you all know what I come up with after today.

 

[Macro1]

I GOT IT FIXED!!!

ends up there was a green wire spliced before that shut off relay.

I disconnected the green wire, cut out the f-ing solder job on the white/purple and bam! fired right up.

(see pic)

Thanks D-Web!

 

[ptschram]

Good job!

Another case of visual observation and systems investigation leads to a successful repair.

Now, let's put some silicone and heat-shrink tubing over the splice and away you go!

 

[Macro1]

I will be sure to do that.

I will also post some pics later... its a sweet rover with a lot of accessories such as:

ARB rear locker
Detroit in the front
Safety Device Roof Rack
HD axles
Rovertym Sliders with Steps
Rovertym front bumper
120A altenator
Dual optima batteries
in dash pioneer DVD player
and more...

Got the whole thing for 3k

Right now the tack is bouncing. I want to give it a tune up, change the oil, clean a few things to see what happens. The engine was replaced with a brand-new long block about 55k ago. The truck has been sitting for a year so if you have any advice on what to do next that would be great!!!

 

[mbrummal]

if the tach is bouncing and the engine is at a steady RPM, the alternator is on its way out.

 

[Macro1]

OK- After changing the oil and checking the plugs and air filter, here is what I have found out so far:

1. Motor is knockin' something fierce at the top end. My brother has a disco which runs a heck of a lot smoother than mine.
2. service engine light is on.
3. Oil pressure is about at 45. It has an after market gauge installed on the dash.
4. Idle is rough and the tach is bouncing up and down.

So what now? Should I get an OBD reader to check the code first? Any thoughts?

 

[Macro1]

Got the OBD hooked up. The only code it pulled was:

P0420
"Catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1."

The knocking has gone way down (sounds a heck of a lot better), but the service engine light is on.

 

[ptschram]

Behind the right kick panel is a brownish box that will say something to the efect of Land Rove remissions maintenance reminder. Unplug it and throw ti as far away from your truck as you can, that will extinguish the light.

45 PSI is fan fuckingtastic, go find some wood to touch!

Check battery voltage while the tach bounces. I've got a '95 Disco that has had a bouncing tach for the past five or six years, it scares folks who don't recognize it's been doing it for years.

 

[Macro1]

-UPDATE-

I connected an OHM reader to the batteries, and they are constant 13V.

However, when I connected it to the alternator it jumps between 7-9V. So, is it safe the assume its the alternator that is going out and causing the tach to bounce?

Also, I cannot find this brown box, just a green one that disabled the vehicle when disconnected. Am I looking inside the passenger side kick panel?

BTW- This thing needs new rotors. I was reading about the defender upgrade. Is it worth it?

 

[MUSKYMAN]

sure hope the detroit is in the rear and the ARB is up front...LOL

sounds like it has a worn cam lobe.

I would also bet the alternator is about to go from the bouncing tach

 

[ptschram]

This truck has two malfunction indicator lights. A check engine light and a service engine soon light.

If the check engine light is illuminated, you have an OBD-II DTC logged. If the Service engine soon light is illuminated, it is due to mileage having elapsed so you can go to the dealer and have you wallet lightened.

 

[Macro1]

sure hope the detroit is in the rear and the ARB is up front...LOL

sounds like it has a worn cam lobe.

I would also bet the alternator is about to go from the bouncing tach

Lockers are not installed yet.

The motor is running pretty smooth. It was rough only for the first 10 minutes or so.

After I changed the oil and such it has been running a lot smoother.

 

[Macro1]

This truck has two malfunction indicator lights. A check engine light and a service engine soon light.

If the check engine light is illuminated, you have an OBD-II DTC logged. If the Service engine soon light is illuminated, it is due to mileage having elapsed so you can go to the dealer and have you wallet lightened.

PTschram-

what do you mean by "mileage having elapsed"?

 

[Macro1]

Here is a quick vid on how its currently running.

So far I can hear that there's a:

Bearing out in the AC condenser
Power steering pump is noisy
exhaust leak at the drivers side
cats are noisy?

(Sorry about the quality. Youtube cut a lot of the sound down.)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjE_B4HTAPQ