Not over heating but running a little hot.
- Thread starter malonso123
- Start date
I don't remember exactly, but it's a simple low-tech mod. Pretty sure I used a flathead and just bent a couple metal "arms" to open the flow.
I believe I read about it on landroverforums.
Mind you, this is not a permanent solution to overheating, as it's not good to run that cool all the time.
I just did it as a test to see if the misfires on a project truck were from block or headgasket.
Interesting.
I had a stuck open thermostat on a D1, X5, and on purpose on a D2 as mentioned above.
All resulted in very low engine temps.
More often than not low temps are the result for sure running down the road with good air flow. Sitting at idle in warm temps w/ little air flow there's the chance for heat to build up especially if the radiator fins are dirty/plugged. I presume the truck has the AC condensor coil/fans sitting in front of the radiator which reduces air flow to a certain extent while sitting still as well. May not be the answer but nothing else seems to make much sense assuming the heads and block where flat when the gaskets were replaced.
If you didn't have this issue before, install your original thermostat or install a Genuine Land Rover thermostat. Lucky 8 sells Genuine thermostats if you want to buy a replacement from them. They will also sell you the 180F thermostat should you decide to go with the wrong thermostat.
Don't forget the standard coolant filling procedure which is to unclip the expansion tank and raise it up in the air a few inches, open the bleed screw on the T-fitting, and then add coolant to the expansion tank until it starts spurting out of the bleed screw. I was amazed at how much air escaped & coolant went in when I first did this (easily a half quart of coolant added before it starts spurting out the bleed screw).
my 98 had a stuck thermostat when I bought it. it ran at 160 . under load 165
Had a new 190 deg LR thermostat installed by a LR shop last fall - normally runs at 210-212 up too and @ 55-60 mph. Will hit 215-217 @ 65+. Before I had it changed the temp was always at 208. With the slight increase in temp i asked the LR shop what the danger zone was, and was told 225+ and you have a problem.
Mine runs 195-205 around town - new Nissen radiator, new 180 deg thermostat. I know most of the hoses above the radiator are full of air, not coolant.
When I sqeeze the hoses, no resistance - not like a balloon full of water.
I'll do the "raise the coolant reservoir" trick this weekend to fix....on a steep road.
BTW, what do you guys use/recommend for coolant? - I use the green coolant, not orange Dexcool.
When I sqeeze the hoses, no resistance - not like a balloon full of water.
I'll do the "raise the coolant reservoir" trick this weekend to fix....on a steep road.
BTW, what do you guys use/recommend for coolant? - I use the green coolant, not orange Dexcool.
Imagine that. the cluster gauge is right in the middle at 230 and starts moving up at 231. how many people are driving in the 225+ and don't even know it.
Dear God, what an ignoramus.
A thermostat stuck open does not cause overheating.
Please go away until you know what you are talking about. Until then, just read and learn.
Just a thought. What if the temp sensor is going bad? Didn’t read where his truck is actually overheating. Might be worth swapping out to ensure that your are getting good data. I would probably swap thermostat too, in case your new one is not functioning properly.
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usually in most systems the thought is that you need to stop the hot coolant in the radiator to cool it. If it doesn't stay in the radiator long enough the temps will rise. That being said, this BMW designed cooling system stuck on an old design Buick V8 is all kinds of strange. I would believe Pinkeytoe on the t stat stuck open and 140 all day.
Are you sure the belt is routed correctly? I know you can get it on wrong and it still ends up being the correct length.
I think I would be looking at airflow accross the radiator. Maybe somme crap between the condensor and the radiator? Maybe a plugged up radiator?
The thermostat to n the D1 stuck open in the middle of winter.
Needle barely got past the blue IIRC.
It was a cold week driving to work...every time I coasted down a hill I lost whatever heat I had.
In the winter. But keep in mind he's talking about a stuck open t stat. Flow will be restricted somewhat. If you just removed the t stat on a D1 it would more than likely overheat.