Are you sure about this?
If you have a cracked block, you can rig the thermostat to be stuck open and run at 140* all day.
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how do you rig it to stay open. thanks for the input.
Are you sure about this?
If you have a cracked block, you can rig the thermostat to be stuck open and run at 140* all day.
[/QUOTE
how do you rig it to stay open. thanks for the input.
Yes, I've experienced both Hi and Lo temps albeit on non-rover vehicle.Are you sure about this?
If you have a cracked block, you can rig the thermostat to be stuck open and run at 140* all day.
how do you rig it to stay open. thanks for the input.
Yes, I've experienced both Hi and Lo temps albeit on non-rover vehicle.
All Makes 4x4 /Britpart from Lucky 8 Offroad
my 98 had a stuck thermostat when I bought it. it ran at 160 . under load 165Interesting.
I had a stuck open thermostat on a D1, X5, and on purpose on a D2 as mentioned above.
All resulted in very low engine temps.
Don't forget the standard coolant filling procedure which is to unclip the expansion tank and raise it up in the air a few inches, open the bleed screw on the T-fitting, and then add coolant to the expansion tank until it starts spurting out of the bleed screw. I was amazed at how much air escaped & coolant went in when I first did this (easily a half quart of coolant added before it starts spurting out the bleed screw).
More often than not low temps are the result for sure running down the road with good air flow. Sitting at idle in warm temps w/ little air flow there's the chance for heat to build up especially if the radiator fins are dirty/plugged. I presume the truck has the AC condensor coil/fans sitting in front of the radiator which reduces air flow to a certain extent while sitting still as well. May not be the answer but nothing else seems to make much sense assuming the heads and block where flat when the gaskets were replaced.
Had a new 190 deg LR thermostat installed by a LR shop last fall - normally runs at 210-212 up too and @ 55-60 mph. Will hit 215-217 @ 65+. Before I had it changed the temp was always at 208. With the slight increase in temp i asked the LR shop what the danger zone was, and was told 225+ and you have a problem.
Dear God, what an ignoramus.If your (sic) reaching 240 at idle the t-stat is basically staying open not giving the radiator time to do it's job.
Are you sure the belt is routed correctly? I know you can get it on wrong and it still ends up being the correct length.yes i can see it circulating. belt is on correctly. if i have to, i can change it. but again it was running great prior to repairs and is running great now, with the exception of the heat.
usually in most systems the thought is that you need to stop the hot coolant in the radiator to cool it. If it doesn't stay in the radiator long enough the temps will rise. That being said, this BMW designed cooling system stuck on an old design Buick V8 is all kinds of strange. I would believe Pinkeytoe on the t stat stuck open and 140 all day.
In the winter. But keep in mind he's talking about a stuck open t stat. Flow will be restricted somewhat. If you just removed the t stat on a D1 it would more than likely overheat.The thermostat to n the D1 stuck open in the middle of winter.
Needle barely got past the blue IIRC.
It was a cold week driving to work...every time I coasted down a hill I lost whatever heat I had.
thanks for the input. i will be trying it. I will let you knowAre you sure the belt is routed correctly? I know you can get it on wrong and it still ends up being the correct length.
I think I would be looking at airflow accross the radiator. Maybe somme crap between the condensor and the radiator? Maybe a plugged up radiator?