Just fyi you can just block off the cooler but thats not going to create a pressure loss. D2 most do not have oil cooler and just have plugs in there. If you have the cooler lines switched you will have Bleed back on start up. not something you can really do with factory lines since they are routed and bent into position but i have had that with aftermarket lines and cooler plate. I would still pull the sensor and check for flow before going any further. the pressure sensor position on on the block input feed from the cover. You need to know flow is there because that is telling you the cover operation. like i said pressure is secondary and created in the block not the cover. Or you could just throw parts at it till it resolves itself.
Oil Pressure Help Needed.
- Thread starter LRDONE
- Start date
I will check that when I get home. I'm going to list the order of events that lead to this and why I think there is no issue in the motor.
- Ran great with 40psi
- had a cam lobe issue from a stuck lifter- oil looked fine.
- replaced cam and lifters, reinstalled cover, did not pack the pump with anything could not get the system to prime.
- Took it back a part and packed the pump, pump primed got 40psi of oil pressure however it took 10-20 seconds every time, hot, cold, morning, night.
- removed cover, cleaned, inspected and resealed everything again, same issue.
- removed cover again, replaced oil pump, resealed pick up tube, pack the pump, system primed and worked perfectly, drove it, shut it off, started it back up, oil light out within 2 seconds of starting problem solved. Let it sit over night, started it, zero psi.
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This is how the oil pressure was acting after the latest repair before I let it sit over night.
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Oil pressure light, Land Rover discovery 1
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Not OP but same symptoms in mine. I did remove and clean up the relief valve and the spring measured in spec.
This is a great idea. Not sure why it didn’t occur to me—especially since the first thing I did was change the OP sensor. Will be curious to hear OP’s results and might try it myself next time I underneath with an oil pan.
Just to tie this together with other similar reported cases here and elsewhere, there are a few common notes that cause people to doubt it’s due to excessive clearance:
- always manifests on cold starts only, warm OP fine on all I’ve heard about
- generally gets worse as ambient temps drop when usually thicker oil means higher pressure
- Haven’t heard of anyone solving the issue except this one RRC owner who swapped front cover, but I’d have to sift back through to see if anyone did bearings or other work
Cheers,
joe b in pdx
Plug off OC ports...not needed.
Pull the Relief valve and shim the spring.
15w40 or 20w50.(10w30 is too thin)
Don't use the PH16 garbage filters...I've seen over a dozen of these motors trashed by those filters. Stick with your WIX or use the correct MAN.
Cut the "dome" off of the pick tube so just the flat screen part is left.
Did you ever put a shop gauge on it to see what your pressure was cold/hot?
Good luck
Pull the Relief valve and shim the spring.
15w40 or 20w50.(10w30 is too thin)
Don't use the PH16 garbage filters...I've seen over a dozen of these motors trashed by those filters. Stick with your WIX or use the correct MAN.
Cut the "dome" off of the pick tube so just the flat screen part is left.
Did you ever put a shop gauge on it to see what your pressure was cold/hot?
Good luck
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Here are pictures of the wear on the pump cover. I think this is why the system is losing its prime. Opinions are welcome. I attached a video of the oil pump play in the timing cover housing. This is the new pump. The old pump has matching scoring to the cover.
Oil pump play, Land Rover Discovery 1
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That’s the problem scored housing and pump cover. That gear play is normal once the gears line up on crankshaft. Give a follow up when it’s back together.View attachment 65829 View attachment 65830View attachment 65831
Here are pictures of the wear on the pump cover. I think this is why the system is losing its prime. Opinions are welcome. I attached a video of the oil pump play in the timing cover housing. This is the new pump. The old pump has matching scoring to the cover.
Oil pump play, Land Rover Discovery 1
Agreed on the scoring. It takes surprisingly little scoring to lose or fail to to build prime. After forgetting to pack a pump I recently learned that and not all cover gaskets are the same.
Luckily it was a distributor cover so the gears could be replaced and the plate could be planed.
Luckily it was a distributor cover so the gears could be replaced and the plate could be planed.
I wonder if my cover is salvageable with some sanding? I might play with it. I have another cover coming but it’s used and I’m not sure what the condition of that will be just yet.
I haven’t heard of anyone milling the cover or the plate. If you purchased the used cover from Will Tillery I would assume it’s good.
The crank-driven "gerotor" oil pump housing would be tough to sand perfectly smooth. I'd be worried about an uneven surface.
I can tell you another thing I learned the hard way. A long time ago I asked a machine shop to hot tank one of those front covers with a 4.6 block I had them work on. I did not remove the gears or retaining plate so they went through the hot solution with the cover. After I let it sit on a shelf for a long time, the gears and plate bolts rusted terribly. Luckily the timing cover (aluminum) was fine.
I can tell you another thing I learned the hard way. A long time ago I asked a machine shop to hot tank one of those front covers with a 4.6 block I had them work on. I did not remove the gears or retaining plate so they went through the hot solution with the cover. After I let it sit on a shelf for a long time, the gears and plate bolts rusted terribly. Luckily the timing cover (aluminum) was fine.
1)too oil gallery 2)oil pump suction side3)oil cooler 4)oil filter5)oil gallery 6)oil pressure switch.
Okay, the first picture is the used cover and pump I just bought. The second picture is my original cover with the new Allmakes4x4 Chinese oil pump. Look at the tolerance difference. The pump and cover plate in the used timing cover do not look any healthier than my original scored pump but I have to say with a little oil the used pump in the used timing cover feels a lot better. I’m tempted to run it. I’ll clean it all up tomorrow and decide.
I say run it, however if you can get the oil pump housing cover plate machined down would help.
I think ultimately what's going to happen here is that I'm going to clean up and run the used stuff. Then I'm going to spend some time on my fathers machining center and come up with a solution using my original timing cover. Whether that be retrofitting a quality pump by machining the cover or machining a new pump and cover plate. Idk it's up in the air but i'm tired of mostly junk quality stuff being available for these motors.
Found this guy on NAS-ROW forum in Utah with same oil pressure problem in a D90 4.0 he said the oil pump housing cover plate was the fix. He wasn’t clear on whether he machined the same one or replaced with another. I have a message to him see if he has more information. I’m interested too see how yours turns out.