Just fyi you can just block off the cooler but thats not going to create a pressure loss. D2 most do not have oil cooler and just have plugs in there. If you have the cooler lines switched you will have Bleed back on start up. not something you can really do with factory lines since they are routed and bent into position but i have had that with aftermarket lines and cooler plate. I would still pull the sensor and check for flow before going any further. the pressure sensor position on on the block input feed from the cover. You need to know flow is there because that is telling you the cover operation. like i said pressure is secondary and created in the block not the cover. Or you could just throw parts at it till it resolves itself.
I will check that when I get home. I'm going to list the order of events that lead to this and why I think there is no issue in the motor.
- Ran great with 40psi
- had a cam lobe issue from a stuck lifter- oil looked fine.
- replaced cam and lifters, reinstalled cover, did not pack the pump with anything could not get the system to prime.
- Took it back a part and packed the pump, pump primed got 40psi of oil pressure however it took 10-20 seconds every time, hot, cold, morning, night.
- removed cover, cleaned, inspected and resealed everything again, same issue.
- removed cover again, replaced oil pump, resealed pick up tube, pack the pump, system primed and worked perfectly, drove it, shut it off, started it back up, oil light out within 2 seconds of starting problem solved. Let it sit over night, started it, zero psi.