Nope, Liqui Moly is a motor oil made in Germany primarily for high performance engines. Whatever it takes to keep this old girl on the road.So you guys are running gear oil to keep your oil lights off?
Nope, Liqui Moly is a motor oil made in Germany primarily for high performance engines. Whatever it takes to keep this old girl on the road.So you guys are running gear oil to keep your oil lights off?
I switched to Liquimoly at the last oil change. Spendy, but made a massive difference in smoothness and engine noise. Buy from FCP Euro, and they’ll exchange the oil for new for free for life…Nope, Liqui Moly is a motor oil made in Germany primarily for high performance engines. Whatever it takes to keep this old girl on the road.
Shouldn't be loose clearances, just had the engine completely rebuilt by a reputable mechanic here in N. Dallas. Maybe the fact that the front cover is obsolete so I may be losing pressure there since I can't find one in any better shape?Well you say your running 60 wt oil. 70 wt is a gear oil. There’s lots of problems with running oil that thick. Your just compensating for really loose clearances.
Ok so you have to run 60 wt oil but your still happy with it?Shouldn't be loose clearances, just had the engine completely rebuilt by a reputable mechanic here in N. Dallas. Maybe the fact that the front cover is obsolete so I may be losing pressure there since I can't find one in any better shape?
Use it (5-40) in my 2004 Audi A4 Avant. Made a huge difference in the engine smoothness. Very bizarre green color though when pouring it in. Sticking with Rotella 15-40 for the D1.I switched to Liquimoly at the last oil change. Spendy, but made a massive difference in smoothness and engine noise. Buy from FCP Euro, and they’ll exchange the oil for new for free for life…
Gear oil?? Why would you think that?So you guys are running gear oil to keep your oil lights off?
10w-60 isn’t gear oil. 10 is the weight, like 10w-40. 60 is the viscosity.Well you say your running 60 wt oil. 70 wt is a gear oil. There’s lots of problems with running oil that thick. Your just compensating for really loose clearances.
Seriously? You should know better.10w-60 isn’t gear oil. 10 is the weight, like 10w-40. 60 is the viscosity.
Well you say your running 60 wt oil. 70 wt is a gear oil.
Seriously? You should know better
It's better than seizing the engine while sitting at a stop light or in heavy traffic when it's 100 degrees outside. Yes, my mechanic has put a oil pressure gauge on it to make sure it's oil pressure and not a bad sensor. Like I said engines been rebuilt, twice actually since they tore it down a second time trying to figure it out. Only thing we can figure is front cover is scored so oil pump can't produce proper oil pressure with anything less. Can't find a better one since they are obsolete. If you have any suggestions I'd be happy to hear them, but everything seems to be running fine for the time being. And I love the truck. Only D1 I've seen in North Texas, although I'm sure there are others around.Ok so you have to run 60 wt oil but your still happy with it?
Have you checked with Will Tillery? He’s always getting new inventory and rarely can’t help. And more importantly, he won’t tell you something is good, unless it’s good. You should check with him.Can't find a better one since they are obsolete. If you have any suggestions I'd be happy to hear them
Thank you, I will check with him.Have you checked with Will Tillery? He’s always getting new inventory and rarely can’t help. And more importantly, he won’t tell you something is good, unless it’s good. You should check with him.
Mine is a 4.0 gems. The inside that houses the oil pump gears gets grooved or scored if you will. The front cover is obsolete and we couldn't find one in better shape. Had I known what I know now, I might have looked into an engine swap.I am interested in this thread - as I also am in the middle of a teardown and rebuild of my 4.0. I have heard this before about the front cover - and I would like some clarification as to what actually gets worn? What am I looking for? Also - is there a need to "deck" the cover so it is absolutely flat? I am about to take the block, crank and both heads to the machine shop just for an initial evaluation - I guess I should include the front cover as well?
Also - if anyone has any tips for getting the seal out of that thing - i could use some ideas. I tried punching it out from the back with a screw driver and then a chisel - but was afraid of damaging the cover - so didn't try too hard. Doesn't look like there is anything to push against if using a press either....
Sounds like a very good idea. The machine shop would definitely be able to point out any issues or confirm all is good with the cover and pump. And you could have them fit a new pump so everything is perfect. That’s the heart of your engine!I guess I should include the front cover as well?
And the machine shop could probably add a speedi-sleeve or something similar if needed to properly fit a new pump.The inside that houses the oil pump gears gets grooved or scored if you will.