gmookher said:
Not true.
You can use oils that do not say A3/B3 on the bottle that will perform just as well or better.
Oil Quiz.
- Thread starter Chris-St Louis
- Start date
Not true.
You can use oils that do not say A3/B3 on the bottle that will perform just as well or better.
Jupiter Rover said:
oh yeah? name some that have hths better than 3.5? which flavors and what are there acea ratings?
I buy total quartz...and I know why...
It's cool if you are into oil. But don't pretend to be a Tribologist.gmookher said:
You obviously have no idea how oil gets certified and what the certifications actually mean.
There is much, much more to oil than HTHS. HTHS is Not the only factor to determine what oil one should use in an application. Neither are certifications, unless under warranty. But even warranty can be put aside due to the Magnuson-Moss Act.
Not every oil has an ACEA rating. Not every oil is API certified.
None of these oils are ACEA certified.
Keep in mind for an oil to be listed as a 40 Multiweight (Xw40) it MUST have a HTHS of 3.7 or greater.
Keep in mind many oils meet/exceed the ACEA requirements. If an oil states it "meets/exceeds" ACEA A3/B3 it may Just be saying it passes the tests but is not officially certified for that classification. Oil Corporations tend to throw these words around quite a bit, they can be misleading. Many see it as, if it "meets" the rating, either API or ACEA or ILSAC, then it paid for the certification. Though, if it "exceeds" the rating then it Passes the tests but they have not paid for the certifcation.
Testing is cheap, certifications are not. If the oil passes the tests, it passes the tests.
But, many oils that do not meet those standards are still Perfectly fine for the Rover V8. Mobil 1 15w50 is a Great example of this.
Royal Purple 10w40, HTHS 4.02
Royal Purple 15w40 HTHS 4.25
Royal Purple 20w40 not sure, but it is at least 4.5
Rotella T 15w40
Rotella T 5w40 Both around 4.0-4.2. (From memory)
Mobil 1 EP 15w50 HTHS 4.6
Mobil 1 15w40 HTHS 4.5
Mobil Clean HM 10w40 HTHS not listed
Castrol Syntec 10w40
Castrol Syntec 5w40
Castrol Syntec 5w50
Castrol Syntec 20w50 None of these HTHS are listed
Castrol Syntec Blend 10w40
Castrol Syntec Blend 15w40
Castrol Syntec Blend 20w50 None of these HTHS are listed
Castrol GTX 10w40
Castrol GTX 20w50
Castrol GTX HM 10w40
Castrol GTX HM 10w40 None of these HTHS are listed
There are also many for Valvoline and Pennzoil, but I think I made my point.
Not many oils are Actually ACEA Certified. Many have passed ACEA testing and meet the requirements.
I think the reason you use total quartz because it makes you feel cool. You think you are cool because you have your oil shipped to you. I'm guessing you live in the USA so there is a Very slim chance they sell Total Oil anywhere near you.
You can go to walmart and spend, literally, a fraction of the price and get great oil that will protect your Rover V8 very well.
No I dont know squat about the testing or the certs, but I do know that the CERT for ACEA A3 B3 requires HT/HS better than 3.5, so its a simple yardstick, and yes, I have found oil at walmart that meets this spec, but it was like one or two flavors, and alot of looking at each bottle. I think it was a mobil1 product that had it right on the front label too.
and I thank you for a list of oils that do not meet the certs but are ok to use in the rover v8..
very helpful..
I will add tho that Keeping Total in my garage means I can use the same oil the Saab, Audi, Rover and Z car. The oil meets just about every spec, car dealer requirement out there incl Benz, Audi, porsche who are the toughest.
I'm a layperson, not a chemical engineer. The local BMW shop sells it, no not cheap but round the corner too...theres someone by you who carries it too.
I agree there are cheaper oils that work. But its like shocks or tires, use what you want to make you or your rig "feel better"
Try it if you want or get a chance, ya might like it. I think its worth it.. I had something done under warranty, the dealer did an oil change, I came home and dumped it. Car had no pep, felt sluggish, just didnt have the juice. I dunno if its the additives or what, but the shit is good.
I can say the same thing about AGIP, which I cant seem to find here around Seattle, but back east all the Alfa and Porsche shops had it. Again, I felt it was slicker oil..based on my butt-dyno. You may know better...Elf Excellium NF 5W40. Now re-labeled "Total Quartz 9000".
and I thank you for a list of oils that do not meet the certs but are ok to use in the rover v8..
very helpful..
I will add tho that Keeping Total in my garage means I can use the same oil the Saab, Audi, Rover and Z car. The oil meets just about every spec, car dealer requirement out there incl Benz, Audi, porsche who are the toughest.
I'm a layperson, not a chemical engineer. The local BMW shop sells it, no not cheap but round the corner too...theres someone by you who carries it too.
I agree there are cheaper oils that work. But its like shocks or tires, use what you want to make you or your rig "feel better"
Try it if you want or get a chance, ya might like it. I think its worth it.. I had something done under warranty, the dealer did an oil change, I came home and dumped it. Car had no pep, felt sluggish, just didnt have the juice. I dunno if its the additives or what, but the shit is good.
I can say the same thing about AGIP, which I cant seem to find here around Seattle, but back east all the Alfa and Porsche shops had it. Again, I felt it was slicker oil..based on my butt-dyno. You may know better...Elf Excellium NF 5W40. Now re-labeled "Total Quartz 9000".
Last edited:
gmookher said:
Sorry, I was in a bad mood and real tired last night. That post was suppose to be informative and polite. I just re-read what I wrote and I'm surprised you were not offended.
But yeah, if you have those three sport cars you can easily put the same oil in all three. So I see why you use ACEA A3/B3, it is in fact one of the Hardest certifications to meet. Which is another reason why it is so sought after, not just by rover owners but by many European auto enthusiasts.
I agree, put in whatever oil you want. Many choose more expensive and luxurious oil. If you helps you sleep at night why not! and definitely if makes your rig quieter and smoother. I have a few quarts of Royal Purple 10w40 in my garage that I'm planning on using. But I also have some Valvoline conventional 10w40.
Ah, I am in the same situation, and have been in it before. I get something fixed under extended warranty and they put in some valvoline 5w30 oil. I can literally hear it tapping!! the HTHS of it is around 2.6. I have no problem with valvoline but it is too "thin" of an oil for a Rover V8. Espcially during summer in florida. It was 100 degrees the other day.
Elf and Agip both make Great oils. As you know, both are more popular over seas. I guess they are like Valvoline and Pennzoil here. They are popular in the states but I don't think they are overseas. But more specialty/luxurious than valvoline/pennzoil.
Sorry for sounding like a jack ass in that post. We're on the same page, I just wanted to let you know how the certification stuff works and how there are many cheap oils that don't meet ACEA that will work great. But in your situation with Euro cars and sports cars, all which call for ACEA A3/B3, why not just buy a bunch of the same oil and fill all of them and the Rover V8. As long as they all take the same grade.. ect...
Chris-St Louis said:Both great students!
You're the one who got me into oil. I have read thousands of pages on BITOG since. Also many other private articles/tests ect.
Thanks!
FWIW I have always used Amsoil in my Rover and since they came out with it the Amsoil 5w40 European. After reading all this and checking the specs, last oil change I tried Mobil 1 0w40 European. My truck never made any clattering upon start up with the Amsoil. If my truck sits for a few days, which it does it's mostly a trail rig, upon starting I get clattering right at start up. It sounds like my lifters have leaked down and they are pumping back up. I am switching back to Amsoil.
Cheers,
Mike
Cheers,
Mike
flyfisher11 said:
My Defender does this as it sits a lot. I dont care what you put in these things theyll still fuck you. Rotella and NAPA gold filters is all any Rover I ever own will get. Cheap available and it works.
rotella and a napa gold on mine for the last couple years except one change last winter. who knows what the inside looks like, or what is really happening but as others have said, cheap and readily available, 15 bucks for filter and gallon of oil.
kennith said:
Well, I clocked about 2500 miles or so on it, and I just didn't like it in the end. Fresh oil fever was affecting me after the change, along with a recent detailing. Once the shine wore off, I began to notice things.
Namely, the engine just wasn't behaving as I liked. I have nothing scientific for anyone here, it was just noisy and a bit rough. So, I've been driving with the 10w30 again for a while, and I believe I like it better. It just seems a little more healthy on the stuff.
Don't ask me why. I can't tell you. Now, this could simply be paranoia coming from running the same thing for years and changing up all of a sudden, but I just thought I'd better pop in this thread and say that I've gone back to what I was using before.
This post has no real value. I cannot quantify any claim it may seem that I am making. It could very well all be in my head. I am simply no longer running the stuff, and I thought I'd make sure my last post wasn't suggesting that I had switched entirely.
Take it for what you will, and feel free to delve into alarming detail about how right or wrong I am. I make no real claim here today.
I am sure that the evidence otherwise presented in this thread has merit of truth somewhere, and I am not suggesting that the oil I tried is bad in any way. Perhaps it is even the other way around. The fact is, I just don't know, so I must default to what I do know. The 10w30 hasn't killed her yet, so I'll stick with it.
This is neither fact nor opinion, this is only me sticking to what has proven itself to me in the past, for better or for worse. I do not mean to suggest anything to anyone on the subject at hand.
Edit: For the record, my brand of choice has always been, and still is Amsoil. What does that mean? Absolutely nothing.
Cheers,
Kennith
Last edited:
