P1313 and P1316 codes EVEN AFTER HEAD JOB!

Craig:
I appreciate your patience. Please call Atlantic British or Rovers North and ask them who has an Autologic or Rovacom near you (other than the charlatan you referred to earlier).

You've tried all the obvious and it's become obvious that there is something going on that we are unable to determine via the internet.

The $ spent would be well spent.

Good luck and Godspeed,
PT
 
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Craigness

Guest
cat and gut (Baw hahaha)

I'm going to do the drivers side cat as it's obviously f'ed up and could be 80% of the problem. I'm also going to do that VSS thing in teh morning. FLAT on MY BACK. Good thing for the Scorpion Racing lift kit from 4X4ag and John C (BTW, 10 times better than the Emu kit for the same price so if any of you psudoblokes need to get 2.5" and dont want it to hurt, hit up 4x4ag). so it's not going to be that hard.

i'll post a pic of the truck so ya'll know whay i'm trying to fix this thing.

WTB (Way-the-by) can I really blow out my ECU (adaptive reset) by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes? I thought it had flash ram?
 
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Craigness

Guest
pics of the thing.... Cam phone though, sorry....

here are pics of the truck....
 

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Craig:
I do not suggest that anyone disconnect the battery unless absolutely necessary. Crazy shit can and often does happen with these trucks (and especially P38s) when the electrics are messed with.

Find somebody with the correct computer and have them reset the adaptive values. I fought a long time without a computer and now, wouldn't even try without one. It can't be the end all, but it oftentimes gives a better idea of where to start than shooting in the dark, conferring with a bunch of webwheelers.

PT
 
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Craigness

Guest
Vss

I'm going to swap out the VSS in about 30 minutes. I'll see whats going on then.

The truck is definatly changing is running characteristics as every day it's a bit different.

I'm convinced that the left side of this motor is possessed and the right side is fine.

Too much crap is going on on the left side. Since the cat has a big-ass weld patch on it, i'm assuming it all started there.

It also could have been the VSS and the carbon causing the cat to melt down and clog. The the dumb shmuch just hollowed it out to get by and all this is residual.

I have so far done the heads, coil pack, wires, plugs, mass flow, all top end gaskets, purged the ecu (Truck ran fine, but had no power for 2 weeks).

I'm going to swap the VSS and weld in a new cat.

If it's still knackered, i'm going up to Springfeild.
 
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Craigness

Guest
VSS Update...

OK, changed the VSS sensor. Total 5 minutes flat on my back with a miners headlamp on. I did NOT use that ratchet with two extensions. That would have taken 30 minutes. Get the 8" allan key wiht the ball end! That clears the big-ass drain bolt on the back of the T/C. I put a little tube on the short end to act as a lever to break the bolt free. You can easily see the orentation of the spindle so lining up the shaft is a non issue.

Purged the codes with my Acctron pep boys code reader.

BTW, it had 6 codes in it. 1516 (I think) air fuel meter fault (Fake I hope as I disconeected the mass flow a few times while the truck was running.

P0300, P0305 and P0307 (multiple, miss on 5 and 7)

P1316 and P1313.

Drove it around a bit and it feels slightly smoother but after warm up it still misses and stumbles off the line until it gets to 3500 rpm then breaks free.

Red light idel is much better, much but still light miss.

I think the cat replacement might help.

ANY INPUT?
 
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Craigness

Guest
update

OK, I spoke too soon. Somewhat.

The truck still has massive hesitation on coming off a standing start. Like the valves are sticking but I just had the heads done.

The idle is smoother at stand still. After warmup, when in nutral (It's a stick) and free revving up to 4500, it pops and pings through the pipe on it's way down to idle.

The CEL is still off after this mornings reset.

It still "Breaks Free" after 3000-3500 RPM and pulls strong most of the time past that.

I'm running out of sensors to change guys.

I almost feels like a fuel injector or two are sticking when they warm up. Is this possible?

Could I test this theory by disconnecting number 7 injector and see what happens when I drive?

Also, the truck is lagging a bit on the highway. You have to really push it to get to 80.
 

RoverChic

Well-known member
Apr 19, 2004
1,446
0
den Haag
Chris-St Louis said:
Please stop throwing parts at this car and take it in.


Thank you Chris! AMEN.. Curtis told me the same thing after I threw 2k in parts @ mine. I just wish I would have listened sooner.
 
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Craigness

Guest
But, that would be too easy....

Is there no reward for fixing it yourself?

I mean, there are still a few sensors that I have not changed....

What about a faluty ECU? I'm in the computer business and I know that when electronics get hot, faults that are not easily found can surface real fast. Did anyone think that the brain might be baked?
 
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Craigness

Guest
Gems Ecu

You cant do that with a GEMS system. You need the testbook or a autologic to re-calibrate the ECU with the CDL system. If I had the testbook, I would not need this forum.
 
Craigness said:
You cant do that with a GEMS system. You need the testbook or a autologic to re-calibrate the ECU with the CDL system. If I had the testbook, I would not need this forum.

Are you sure about this? The only time I've run into what you've described is with Motronics engines and P38s.

Also, what does the ECU have to do with the Central Diff Lock? I'm not sure ti would necessarily affect the central door locking either.

Okay, I read Chris' TSB (thanx Chris). It might be a problem, but I have the computer and that may be why it hasn't been a problem for me.
 
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landy96

Well-known member
Apr 12, 2005
212
0
47
Beuamont, Tx
I know how you feel, it is frustrating!!! but.......Dude...... I cannot believe you have thrown this many parts on this truck. If I had done that by now I would have been broke!!! I LOVE to fix my own stuff. But, now with the computer controlling most of the systems, it is near impossible to have your truck run right without purging the adaptive memory. I had a few problems with mine, threw $200.00 in parts at it, thank GOD that it turned out I really did need these parts, but it still didn't run right at all!! I was told by two independant shops to have the adaptive memory wiped. I drove 2hrs to the shop, they hooked the computer up, 2min and $75.00 later, my truck was running PERFECT. HMMM $75.00 or $2000.00. This is not a hard choice. Swallow your pride, PLEASE! I did, and learned a whole hell of a lot of stuff!!!!! And made new friends!! :D
 
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Craigness

Guest
CDL- Central Door Lock (The Green alarm box)

It's the Central door lock computer as I was told it is referred to by an LR guy. Also known as the immobilizer unit or security ECU. The green box behind the passangers kicker panel that works the security and keyfob reciever.
 

robisonservice

Well-known member
You said I swore your truck had sticking valves. Did I actually look at it or did we just talk on the phone? It sounds like we talked on the phone, and indeed sticky valves would be at the top of the list for probable causes of your troubles. But it's not certain until it's tested.

If the check engine light is flashing you must have a significant problem that's going to be visible on the screen of a tester. You have received a number of good suggestions, and your truck is still broken.

I often hear of these situations, where all possible tests anad repairs have been done, but the truck still has a problem. So what's the answer? Something must have been overlooked or done wrong.

Your comment that the truck ran better with the temp sensor unhooked - when you do that the truck goes to a rich-running default program, and a bad running vehicle often improves (seemingly) with that treatment. But continued operation will damage your cats.

If you read the article on my web site you'll see there is a mechanical test for sticking valves. At lower mileage we always do that test so we don't do valve jobs by mistake. At high mileage the trucks benefit from a valve job whatever othe rproblems they may have . . .

You may have clogged injectors. You may have rust in the fuel rail. You may have a bad ecu. It does not sound to me like you have had good luck doing so, but you really need to get the vehicle diagnosed properly.

I find the factory Testbook/T4 is better than Autologic for difficult testing situations on engine running because of the way the data is presented. You may want to read the article on that on our web site.

If you're looking for a suggestion to try at home I'd say pull the fuel rail. Look for rust, and have the injectors flow tested. Go to www.boschservice.com and look for auto service centers with flow test equipment.
 

Porter

Well-known member
Apr 20, 2004
124
0
I just had the same thing happen to me. I had a 1313 and 1314, even after a head job. The mechanic then identified the IAC to be the problem.