Fwiw, my 16 mpg numbers are from my 96 D1 5-Speed with SG bumpers ( front and rear), a 3 inch lift, and 245/75/16 tires. I haven’t tracked mpg on the other one, 96 D1 auto, no lift, stock tires wheels, stock bumpers, and pretty much stock everything but injectors. However, it seems it may be a little better than the other one. I think I get about 20 more miles on a full tank but as we all know stock tires give a bit optimistic numbers.Thanks, this gives me some things to think about. It’s been my daily for almost 20 years has about 200k miles and everything is literally factory original except water pump, coolant hoses, rad, oil cooler lines, plugs and wires, starter and alternator so I’m certainly not complaining. My fuel mileage is probably about 10mi/gal too, but the winch/bumper/lift/33’s aren’t helping the cause.
When I chose the ones I purchased I went with a company that had sold hundreds of sets of these specific injectors on eBay and had very positive feedback and reviews specific to the injectors. There are many other much lower cost options on eBay but $40 for 8 injections including shipping definitely has that “too good to be true” feel. How in the world is that possible for a good set of injectors?Be VERY careful where you buy injectors - there are plenty of fakes (especially ebay and amazon "genuine" new Bosch).
Note of the day:
A friend told me once: “Land Rover doesn’t sell vehicles. They sell Eternal Love”. Once you love them, you love them for life.
I think I paid around 140 or so for mine, which is similar to what I have paid for sets for other vehicles. 40 for a set does seem too good to be true. The few sellers I have talked to pull their injectors from junkyards (or have connections at yards who pull and sell them in bulk for cheap), refurbish them, and throw them on ebay. The labor alone would be worth more than 40.When I chose the ones I purchased I went with a company that had sold hundreds of sets of these specific injectors on eBay and had very positive feedback and reviews specific to the injectors. There are many other much lower cost options on eBay but $40 for 8 injections including shipping definitely has that “too good to be true” feel. How in the world is that possible for a good set of injectors?
Well...These links Might be of some help to you 14CUX guys wanting to tune, but I "think" he may have turned the MAF sensor screw some to "lean" it.
Pistonheads said:To alter the fuel map you’ll need to buy the following hardware and a few spare EPROM chips so you can keep your original chip as a backup.
Having worked on old 2 way radios for a decade they all took EEPROMs chips for programming, And I found some on eBay for cheap. The programers are basic and for the EEPROMs not our trucks, not as cheap at 100$+.Well...
The fun stops right here:
Pulling and reinstalling the 14CUX ECU on a 95 Classic takes far longer time than everything else involved with re-chipping it. Any reference to the need of multiple attempts to do it is a huge downer to me.I've flashed EEPROM radios 1000 of times, chips can take (10+ flashes) but from my experience flashing them writing the program twice before sealing chip worked more often than a single flash. On single flashes I had missing bits on read backs and radios not working.
So which one would you choose?
here it is. First 2 are the Volvo, next is the rover compatible. then last is the stock rover. All have been cleaned and new filter baskets. As you can see the stock one just dumps in one stream and the others are a nice 4 jets.
On 14CUX? How did you do that?
These links Might be of some help to you 14CUX guys wanting to tune, but I "think" he may have turned the MAF sensor screw some to "lean" it.
GOD DAMN!The MAF screw only works on non-Lambda cars (and it's effect tapers off as revs and load increase anyway), it's ignored on cars running a Lambda map.
I've burned an EEPROM and changed it about 14 times so far So far it's 100% UNscientific, as I just adjusted the fuel multiplier to get the fuels trims back to "normal" after making sure the exhaust manifolds was 100% leak free (because that gives lean signals). I don't have a wideband 02 sensor (yet), so it can still use some adjustment, I'm sure.
One my Disco 1, I pre-burn the "new" EEPROM (I've NEVER had to burn one twice), whip out the ECU. fit the chip and put it back in... takes about 15 minutes. The ECU is beside the throttle pedal (on my RHD Disco), so the panel has 2 plastic thumb screws and the ECU has 2 plastic hex nuts. I can undo them all with my fingers now
I already had a Willem GQ-4X programmer. It burns and verifies the EEPROM in about 25 seconds. I hunted out genuine ATMEL EEproms (electrically erasable), though people have no trouble with the Chinese ones, apparently. I also fitted a "lock and load" socket into the existing socket in the ECU. The original chips can't be re-written, as they are UV erasable only, but don't actually have the window in them to do it. The replacement EEPROMs can be written many times.
I've reduced the overall fuelling, adjusted my in-gear idle up 25 RPM, reduced the coasting idle-hold-up (don't go too low on an auto - the trans pump needs enough speed to operate), reduced the fuel-cut coasting threshold and adjusted my warmup fuelling to make short trips more economical and to suit my cooler 88C thermostat. I've copied parts on different maps to get what I want - similar to the 14CUX "rebuild project" that is mentioned in the referenced thread.
It's a bit of fun, really!